Head Gasket Problems

[Buckeye]

I won't reuse ARP bolts if I was you. 

 

10    Hex bolt    M12X156    10            11120621144    

 

[TobyB]

May I suggest a chaser rather than a tap?

 

The taps will be slightly larger than the taps used originally, and will remove material,

whereas a chaser will just clean out crudd

https://www.amazon.com/Lang-Tools-2584-15-Piece-Restorer/dp/B000XJ48V0/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1HPT887VKO21K&keywords=metric+thread+chaser&qid=1691947889&sprefix=metric+thread+chaser%2Caps%2C230&sr=8-5

 

Amazon tells me I bought this in October of 2019, and I've been a happy cornsoomer ever since.

 

That said, I don't think that's your problem.  I DO think a good, careful, meditative scrape might help.

 

t

 

[Russell74Fjord]

I believe this is an S14 head gasket, superior to what I was using, and this is for a bored out MM engine, and that little piece of plastic is the only modification needed - otherwise major oil leaks. Mine has not leaked since being installed. 

 

Not sure if it would work well with an engine not bored out. 

 

[Preyupy]

DO NOT USE A S14 HEADGASKET  on a large bore M10 engine.  The water passages are different and it routes the water through the head so there is not enough water going past the exhaust ports.  Driving around town it might be OK but under heavy use you will have overheating problems and likely crack the cylinder head between the exhaust valve seat and the water jacket.  

[Reza Taheri]

On 8/13/2023 at 9:23 AM, Buckeye said:

I went back and read some of the comments/ suggestions and your replies. What I can offer you here are;

1. You CANNOT run to hardware store and buy washers. 
2. You need to buy OEM Cylinder Head Bolts and Cylinder Head Bolt Washers
3. Drain coolant from the block. You have block drain hole/ plug between cylinder 3 & 4
4. Retap the holes and use small wire brush to clean heck of them
5. Read attached document from Service Bulletin taking about head bolts
6. Use newer method to clamp cylinder head (torque & Angle) 

 

Revised Cylinder Head Bolts Tightening Procedure.PDF 396.77 kB · 4 downloads

 

Alright, I think I got all the parts and tools to get after it this weekend. Reading up on the procedure, we're saying to tighten it 44.25 foot pounds and then 33 degrees instead of 59 foot pounds? 

[Son of Marty]

You'll have to point out the .25 on a torque wrench. Is your block clean to bare metal and flat? On your head gasket you'll see 2 1/4" holes where the gasket and the upper and lower timing covers all come together put a BB sized dab of RTV in those before mounting the head. I torque my heads in 3 steps first to 45/ft/lb wait 10-15 min then to 55 ft/lb wait again then to 60 ft/lb following the bolt pattern after 200-300 miles retorque them at 60 ft/lb after backing them off 3/4 turn.

[Reza Taheri]

1 hour ago, Son of Marty said:

You'll have to point out the .25 on a torque wrench. Is your block clean to bare metal and flat? On your head gasket you'll see 2 1/4" holes where the gasket and the upper and lower timing covers all come together put a BB sized dab of RTV in those before mounting the head. I torque my heads in 3 steps first to 45/ft/lb wait 10-15 min then to 55 ft/lb wait again then to 60 ft/lb following the bolt pattern after 200-300 miles retorque them at 60 ft/lb after backing them off 3/4 turn.

That's what I did but the document posted to the forum says otherwise 

[TobyB]

There are 2 historical procedures for the M10.

The old one was 3 steps, with a retorque.

 

The new one was an initial step, then a degree rotation.

 

Typical wisdom is to use whatever's printed on the sheet that comes with your head gasket,

BUT many of us have used the 3 steps version on newer gaskets with much success.

 

Critical is that the head get compressed evenly to a (relatively high) compression,

and that it maintains that compression.

 

fwiw,

t

 

[Son of Marty]

You just need to decide on one method or the other and follow it to the letter. 

[Buckeye]

I replaced the cylinder head and gasket back in 2013 and used Victor Renz head gasket. There are two ways to go about it as mentioned above. I followed head gasket Mfg. procedure as following.

 

 

Torque to 60Nm, wait 15 minutes, torque bolts to 33 degree. Run the engine to normal operating temp or 15 minutes, and final step is to torque bolts to additional 25 degree.

[Reza Taheri]

 

 

 

[Reza Taheri]

Correction, I could not fit a . 005 feeler gauge between the Snap-On ruler and the block. So any possible gap is smaller than that and the MLS gasket I'm using is 1.3mm

 

Still chasing out threads this afternoon. Probably won't get everything plumbed together until tomorrow 

 

[kbmb02]

12 minutes ago, Reza Taheri said:

Correction, I could not fit a . 005 feeler gauge between the Snap-On ruler and the block. So any possible gap is smaller than that and the MLS gasket I'm using is 1.3mm

 

You'll likely be seeing a comment from @Preyupy here shortly regarding the importance of a seriously-smooth surface on both the block and head in order for an MLS gasket to seal properly.... -KB

[Dudeland]

Ok , dumb question.  ARP head bolts are helpful why? High compression engines? 

[Reza Taheri]

53 minutes ago, Dudeland said:

Ok , dumb question.  ARP head bolts are helpful why? High compression engines? 

They come with washers so you don't forget to take the old washers off and reuse them ruining months of your life. 

 

So there's that.