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Head Gasket Problems


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No need for all the profanity.  It is just a car...and it isn't that big a deal to torque a few bolts. 

 

If you are frustrated now, just wait...

 

I can't see if the cam is lined up with the registration mark or if the crank is at TDC.  If it is off just a bit, try rotating the crank a bit until you get the gear to pop into place.  Then check the cam and crank registration marks to make sure they are aligned.  You may have to move the chain one tooth on the gear to get the marks aligned.

 

If the registration marks are way out of alignment (more than a couple gear teeth), I would pop the head off, put everything back in alignment, and reassemble.

 

If the cam and crank are not correctly aligned, you will chase problems forever, causing additional (and unwarranted) profanity.

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The No 1 intake lobe is just coming into opening the valve and the cam is not yet turned to TDC.  Both intake and exhaust lobes should be basically down to see the registration mark on the cam hub to be at the top center.

Edited by jimk

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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Pull the cam gear back and put 2 bolts in diagonally, with a large screw driver shaft laid flat across the bolts rotate the cam, STOP if you feel it hit anything, it'll be a piston and you'll need to turn the crank one way or the other until the valve is past the obstruction, then set everything back to TDC and bolt the cam gear on.

Edited by Son of Marty

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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Like others have said, your #1 piston needs to be at TDC.  You verify this by lining up the "OT" line on the flywheel in the viewing hole at the back of the block.  You can also verify this with the TDC notch on the crank pulley pulley at the front of the engine.  Then you need to position your cam to TDC by turning it using the method explained by @Son of Marty until the notch/line on the front of the cam is lined up with the oil bar on the head.  Then you reinstall the timing chain sprocket on the cam.  If you have maintained the sprocket position on the timing chain, the holes should line up with the bolt holes on the cam.  Otherwise, you may need to adjust the sprocket position on the chain to get them to line up.  This is not usually a profanity inducing task on the 2002, plenty of others in that category, (brake linkage "bitch clip", etc.) 😉

 

Mark92131

image.thumb.jpeg.91c9f383a51e535fcb89b2658026ad0c.jpeg

Cam Line.jpg

1970 BMW 1600 (Nevada)

 

 

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On 8/19/2023 at 4:32 PM, kbmb02 said:

 

You'll likely be seeing a comment from @Preyupy here shortly regarding the importance of a seriously-smooth surface on both the block and head in order for an MLS gasket to seal properly.... -KB

LOL Ken,  yes that block does not look smooth enough for a MLS Gasket to seal properly. They are not capable of conforming to a rough surface and will just sit on the high spots (in all honesty it does not look like that block is smooth enough for even a stock gasket to survive very long).  It’s hard to tell just by the pictures but if you can feel any roughness running your fingernail over the surface, ITS NOT SMOOTH ENOUGH.  

  • Like 1

1970 1602 (purchased 12/1974)

1974 2002 Turbo

1988 M5

1986 Euro 325iC

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1 hour ago, Preyupy said:

LOL Ken,  yes that block does not look smooth enough for a MLS Gasket to seal properly. They are not capable of conforming to a rough surface and will just sit on the high spots (in all honesty it does not look like that block is smooth enough for even a stock gasket to survive very long).  It’s hard to tell just by the pictures but if you can feel any roughness running your fingernail over the surface, ITS NOT SMOOTH ENOUGH.  

A stock gasket, as noted, would be the way to go, and spray the gasket both sides with copper coat. Three stage torque sequence. As also noted before, remove the chain tensioner/spring/cap to relieve chain tension on the gear when assembling. 

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Hacker of many things... master of none.

 

Gunther March 19, 1974. Hoffman Motors march 22 1974 NYC

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...dear Lord what is that thing?

 

It ain't gonna seal on that flycut block...

 

t

 

that looks like a gasket from an E46 front cover.   Even the E46 doesn't use that sorta

stuff as a head gasket...

 

 

head gasket.png

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"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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On 8/22/2023 at 10:20 AM, TobyB said:

...dear Lord what is that thing?

 

It ain't gonna seal on that flycut block...

 

 Right, that looks wrong, doesn't look like Hi Pro multi layer metal head gasket for an M10 which you dont need anyway.

MLS Head gasket?

Get rid of that thing and buy a  correct head gasket for a 2002.

Felpro makes one

Edited by tech71
  • Like 1

76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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Multi Layer Steel gasket...  designed for better sealing for correctly prepared  head/block surfaces, on higher compression and high performance engines.

Hacker of many things... master of none.

 

Gunther March 19, 1974. Hoffman Motors march 22 1974 NYC

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I don't have any problem with the MLS gasket even on a low compression engine. I have been using them for years on race engines (12.5-13.5:1 CR)   You just need to know that head and block surface finish is CRITICAL.  The stock head gaskets from the various manufacturers are more than adequate for a street engine with a 10.5:1 compression ratio.  

 

  • Like 2

1970 1602 (purchased 12/1974)

1974 2002 Turbo

1988 M5

1986 Euro 325iC

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