Head Gasket Problems

[Reza Taheri]

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Mark92131]

Pull a spark plug, ground it on the block, turn the motor over, are you getting a nice clean spark?  If not, re-check the wiring on the coil to the 123 Ignition distributor.  You have a lot of connections on that coil.  Rotor installed?  What ignition map do you have programmed?  If I wasn't getting spark, I would consider resetting the motor to TDC and reinstalling that 123 distributor from scratch.

 

Mark92131

[Reza Taheri]

15 minutes ago, Mark92131 said:

Pull a spark plug, ground it on the block, turn the motor over, are you getting a nice clean spark?  If not, re-check the wiring on the coil to the 123 Ignition distributor.  You have a lot of connections on that coil.  Rotor installed?  What ignition map do you have programmed?  If I wasn't getting spark, I would consider resetting the motor to TDC and reinstalling that 123 distributor from scratch.

 

Mark92131

That's EXACTLY what I did this morning and got no spark. Glad to hear I did that correctly. Reinstalling the dizzy from scratch after I make some lunch. 

 

[Reza Taheri]

Update

 

 

[Reza Taheri]

May have figured it out. I had some wires crossed and the wires for the oil pressure sensor were attached to the electric choke. My oil pressure light works again, as does the tach. 🤞

[Reza Taheri]

Ran it for 5 mins. Any advice on the hissing from the carb? I have to wire up the choke still, that's why a screwdriver is stuck in there. I captured the numbers at the end of the video

[Dudeland]

I think it may be fine, you need to get the choke sorted out.  The hissing may be extra fuel being pulled through the carb as a result of the choke and screwdriver. 

 

Are the venturies tight? Sometimes they get loose, and as a result, suck air.  You can use a bit of a pop can to shim them and tighten them up. 

 

 

 

 

[Mark92131]

22 degrees of advance at 1100 RPM seems high.  Should be around 15 at 1000 RPM and 25 at 1400 +/- 50 RPM, all in 38/42 at 2700 RPM.  Let's see your map.  A lot of stumbling and shaking at idle (800/900), you should turn your idle mixture screw in and out to see if you can find the best smooth idle and then set your idle speed screw to around 900 RPM.  When you rev it, it doesn't sound like the motor is making power, this might improve with changes to your ignition map.

 

Mark92131

 

 

[Reza Taheri]

[Dudeland]

3 hours ago, Reza Taheri said:

I agree that is an aggressive curve. 

[Reza Taheri]

 

 

11 hours ago, Dudeland said:

I think it may be fine, you need to get the choke sorted out.  The hissing may be extra fuel being pulled through the carb as a result of the choke and screwdriver. 

 

Are the venturies tight? Sometimes they get loose, and as a result, suck air.  You can use a bit of a pop can to shim them and tighten them up. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 9, 2023 by Reza Taheri
Media didn't load

[Dudeland]

Pull the jets and blow them out while you are in there.  There is a tiny bit of dirt at the bottom of the bowl.

 

Take the air bleeds out ( I forget what they are called I haven't had my coffee yet).   Try to get the emulsion tubes out and make sure they are clean.  You can poke the end of a  bamboo wood skewer(like you would use for a kabob), down the hole of the emulsion tube to get them out.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 10, 2023 by Dudeland

[Reza Taheri]

...knock on wood... I THINK the head gasket is finally SOLVED. Did a full shake down today and the car runs so cool I was worried the gauge was broken. I feel comfortable enough to drain the water and fill it with coolant now and do one last head bolt torque. 

 

Idle is still all over the place and it still feels severely underpowered, it really feels like it needs a valve adjustment and playing around with jetting. Are the clearances different with a 292 cam or is it still . 007mm?

 

 

 

[Reza Taheri]

[Mark92131]

With the 292 Cam, the idle is always going to be lumpier than stock.  41 degrees is a lot of advance at 4050 RPM, but you are adding an extra 5 degrees based on the MAP table.  I still think your advance table is too aggressive just off idle.  I would zero out your map table and run a less aggressive advance table to see it helps your under power issue.  Something like this...

 

500 - 3

700 - 10

1000 - 14

1500 - 25

2000 - 31

2500 - 35

2700 - 38

 

I would then set my idle to 1500 RPM and verify that the "ball" is in the middle of the flywheel viewing hole on the transmission.  This will verify that 123 distributor is in synch with the motor timing.  Your Cam manufacturer should have valve lash recommendations, valve adjustment is a good thing.  Once you have this accomplished, then an AFR gauge can determine what jetting adjustments are needed.

 

Mark92131