Distinct Click In Bellhousing When Clutch Released (video)

[Birdie]

===CONTEXT / SYMPTOMS===

Until a month ago my car was not driven for 18 years.

We got her running 'great' and have been slowing putting more miles on her after each little improvement project.

A few days ago it developed a very subtle click at the point of full release of the clutch.

So subtle that I thought the pedal pad had a crack that was rubbing.

Well, fast forward a few days, maybe ~75mi, and the click is very loud and very distinct and getting worse fast.

 

===DETAILS===

The click can be reproduced without the motor on. Simply depressing and releasing the clutch will cause the noise.

That said, if I release the clutch with ninja-like soft feet I can certainly minimize the sound. 

 

In the video you will see inside the bellhousing as the clutch is pressed and released. 

As well, you will see the slave push rod. One small detail of mention is that even though I can put my hands on the bellhousing and feel the click, you can clearly see the master slave moving ever so slightly out of / back into alignment at the point of the click.

I should mention that the click seems much louder and physically stronger in real life than in the video.

 

Okay 2002faq geniuses, what is my diagnosis and how sad am I?

Lubricant sad or clutch kit sad?

 

 

Thanks!

Edited April 24, 2023 by Birdie

['76mintgrün'02]

I'll bet it's the slave cylinder push rod, where it meets the clutch fork.  Mine did that too and TobyB saved the day.  That joint needs lubrication periodically.

Tom

[Birdie]

And you think a 'catching ball joint' at the push rod / fork connection would cause such a distinct click inside of the bellhousing?

 

When I put my hand on the bellhousing I really feel it inside. Not at the push rod.

 

I sure hope you are right..

['76mintgrün'02]

I hope so too.  I was impressed (and worried) by how loud mine got.  Pin-pointing the source of a sound can be tricky.  It's funny how they seem to move around.  I'll bet the click is ringing the bell--housing.

[Birdie]

It's funny you say that bc you are making me rethink my observation and I am wondering if the noise/physical click is simply traveling down the fork into the perfect echo chamber that is the bellhousing. I will have at that entire assembly here later today - cleaning, lubing, etc..

 

BTW - I was reviewing me video and noticed that the fork at the push rod connection looks damaged. I guess I didn't notice when I was under the car, on my back. I have attached a pic. In your opinion, is that as bad as I think it is?

 

As well, I see a small clear plastic tube going into the slave cylinder (it looks empty). The tube looks much newer than the cylinder (or anything else down there). There is also another nipple on the cylinder that does not have a tube nor is it capped. Can anyone tell me about these? Any check or general maintenance to be performed on this assembly? 

[tech71]

After 18  years your lucky hydraulic fluid isn't squirting out of the cylinder when pedal is depressed. Thats what mine did.

Clean the area, get all the crap removed and spray the area with spray lube.

Flush out the entire hydraulic system, old fluid can have lots of water in it.

 

Edited April 24, 2023 by tech71

[Mark92131]

2 hours ago, Birdie said:

Can anyone tell me about these?

 

The slave cylinder should have a hose connection that runs to the brake fluid reservoir and a threaded bleed nipple.  The click sounds like it is coming from the slave cylinder push rod action, you can see it hitch as it retracks into the slave cylinder.  Not a lot of maintenance beyond cleaning and lubricating the push rod and connections.

 

Mark92131

[tech71]

Huh, after a closer look and based on how the rod is traveling I wonder if its installed backwards? look at that obvious shoulder there at the pivot arm and the way the rod is sliding through the hole in cylinder boot.

Yeah, never mind think its correct.

Clean it up so we can see better.

Edited April 24, 2023 by tech71

[John76]

Compress the slave to allow easy cleaning of the seat on the lever arm and the ball socket inside the bellhousing. 

Coat these contact areas with a heavy grease. I even added vinyl tubing on the spring ends thinking was a source of the annoying "click" when releasing the clutch. Amazingly smooth and silent now!

I lived with that "click" for years assuming it was the slave cylinder on its last leg (or rod?).

 

 

 

 

[Birdie]

Success! The loud click is gone and indeed, the clutch feels much better.

 

I began with the a rag in a shoe shine motion over the push rod. The push rod remained stationary as the rag went back and forth. Soon enough though, the push rod began to move  along with the rag and I realized the magic was happening.

 

Btw, @John76 what is your heavy grease of choice for road exposed applications like this?

 

Thanks everyone!

 

 

Edited April 25, 2023 by Birdie

['76mintgrün'02]

You could steel half-a-finger-full of grease from the inside of the front wheel bearing cap.  It won't take much.

 

Thanks for the videos.  Those are even more fun than photoes.

[John76]

15 hours ago, Birdie said:

what is your heavy grease of choice for road exposed applications

I use Red "N" Tacky #2.

It's waterproof and designed for sliding surfaces such as input shafts and bearings.

 

[Mike Self]

A small aside for those of us with 68 and early 69 cars:  if your US spec 2002 has a VIN below 1665200, you have the early style coil spring pressure plate--and an adjustable clutch slave cylinder pushrod.   The mechanism is a carryover from the mechanical clutch activation in 1600s; that pushrod is where one adjusts the clutch freeplay on a 1600.  

 

It also adjusts the freeplay on those early 2002s--but the owner's manual doesn't mention it. I found it quite by accident when I was trying to fix a grinding gear shift when the car had about 90k miles.  Thought the  clutch was worn out because a hydraulic clutch is self adjusting.   Not these.  I had another 100k of wear left after adjusting!

 

mike