Took 2 hours to remove the plugs!

[NonStopTy]

I haven’t got my hands dirty on BMWs in a couple of years but I’m not that stupid I promise. The spark plug wire housing, broke off into the manifold… the little piece was preventing me from getting socket around the plug. I finally managed to get some of the broken plastic out of the manifold and then took out the plug. Took a lot of little tools and some compressed air but I was being very patient because I did not want those pieces to fall into the engine….

now that’s over I’m putting together a parts list of what I need to buy before I try to start her up. I happened to look through the trunk and found some brand new stuff. Hopefully I can still use.. can somebody point out what these gaskets are for and these parts that look like steering linkage? 
also found some new plugs hope these will work. Found some new wheel bearings and a capacitor I believe? 

Appreciate the feedback! 

 

[Son of Marty]

Well first off the platinum plugs are not the answer for the m10 you would be better off with the standard tip plugs. The parts you found are a clutch master cylinder, a wheel bearing kit with seals, a spare fan belt not sure about the second belt is for maybe air pump or a/c a short shift lever, and a couple of exhaust down pipe gaskets. If you ever have more broken plug tip plastic try using a shop vac to get it out.

[visionaut]

Ty, sorry to hear the initial wrenching on your 02 got off to an aggravating start. 

 

Yeah, ditch the Platinum plugs, like SoM noted, the M10 likes standard copper plugs.  Ideally non-resistor if you can still find ‘em.

 

You may be able to use the points/condenser in your tune-up work…

 

Tom

[zinz]

I’ve had that Bakelite/ceramic insulator chip off and cause the exact same problem in the past. I was able to tweeze it out, but a blast from a compressed air nozzle should dislodge it more easily, next time.

 

Good luck on the rest of it. ++1 on the standard plugs…not platinum 

 

Ed Z

[NonStopTy]

12 hours ago, zinz said:

I’ve had that Bakelite/ceramic insulator chip off and cause the exact same problem in the past. I was able to tweeze it out, but a blast from a compressed air nozzle should dislodge it more easily, next time.

 

Good luck on the rest of it. ++1 on the standard plugs…not platinum 

 

Ed Z

Yes exactly what I did! It was not coming out easily and I didn’t want it to fall into the engine. Took some patience. 
I will def get some copper plugs. I thought that would be the best from the beginning as my m30 likes those as well! Thanks!

[NonStopTy]

13 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

Well first off the platinum plugs are not the answer for the m10 you would be better off with the standard tip plugs. The parts you found are a clutch master cylinder, a wheel bearing kit with seals, a spare fan belt not sure about the second belt is for maybe air pump or a/c a short shift lever, and a couple of exhaust down pipe gaskets. If you ever have more broken plug tip plastic try using a shop vac to get it out.

Thank you! Shop vac didn’t work compressed air kept blowing it around the plug. The tiny plastic pieces literally fell slightly behind the bolt of the plug. Almost thought I was totally screwed. Took a good flashlight and a mirror. Ordering some new plugs today! 

This car has upgraded the distributor rotor to the Petronix. What are the chances it’s still working? Car was running 2016/17

 

Just buying one thing at a time to see what I need. thanks! 

[Stevenc22]

Buy these plugs

 

Set of (4) NGK BP6ES Spark Plugs Yamaha (See Fitment Chart) #BP6-ES000-00-00

WWW.EBAY.COM

---

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Set of (4) NGK BP6ES Spark Plugs Yamaha (See Fitment Chart) #BP6-ES000-00-00 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

 

[NonStopTy]

26 minutes ago, Stevenc22 said:

Buy these plugs

 

Set of (4) NGK BP6ES Spark Plugs Yamaha (See Fitment Chart) #BP6-ES000-00-00

WWW.EBAY.COM

---

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Set of (4) NGK BP6ES Spark Plugs Yamaha (See Fitment Chart) #BP6-ES000-00-00 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!BPR6ES NGK Spark Plug for Honda Engines & Other Small Engines https://a.co/d/cpkCzBB       

Edited May 10, 2023 by NonStopTy
Did reply BPR6ES NGK Spark Plug for Honda Engines & Other Small Engines https://a.co/d/cpkCzBB

[NonStopTy]

BPR6ES NGK Spark Plug for Honda Engines & Other Small Engines https://a.co/d/cpkCzBB

[NonStopTy]

Just now, NonStopTy said:

BPR6ES NGK Spark Plug for Honda Engines & Other Small Engines https://a.co/d/cpkCzBB

How about these on Amazon? 

[Stevenc22]

Those are resistor plugs. "R" The original plugs were NON resistor plugs. Non resistor plugs are harder to find these days. the R will work but not ideal.

[visionaut]

Your dizzy rotor isn’t the PerTronix…PerTronix is an electronic points replacement. It’s solid state, so might still be fine. (So skip what I said earlier about using that points/condenser tune-up kit… lol)

 

You may still want to replace cap and rotor on the dizzy tho..

 

To easily test if the PerTronix is bad:

 

1. Connect a jumper wire from the Ignitor Plate to battery ground.
2. Connect the Red wire from the Ignitor to the battery positive terminal along with the red lead from a volt meter.
3. Attach the Black wire form the Ignitor to the black lead of the voltmeter.
4. Move or rotate the magnet sleeve in front of the Ignitor Module, the voltmeter should vary from battery voltage to 0 volts and back.
5. If it does not, then you possibly have a burned out Power Transistor or a failed Hall cell.

 

Most often the module isn’t bad, but it’s getting low voltage or too much resistance. See attached for how to test for power, ground and voltage.

 

 

 

[jimk]

51 minutes ago, visionaut said:

Your dizzy rotor isn’t the PerTronix…PerTronix is an electronic points replacement. It’s solid state, so might still be fine. (So skip what I said earlier about using that points/condenser tune-up kit… lol)

 

You may still want to replace cap and rotor on the dizzy tho..

 

To easily test if the PerTronix is bad:

 

1. Connect a jumper wire from the Ignitor Plate to battery ground.
2. Connect the Red wire from the Ignitor to the battery positive terminal along with the red lead from a volt meter.
3. Attach the Black wire form the Ignitor to the black lead of the voltmeter.
4. Move or rotate the magnet sleeve in front of the Ignitor Module, the voltmeter should vary from battery voltage to 0 volts and back.
5. If it does not, then you possibly have a burned out Power Transistor or a failed Hall cell.

 

Most often the module isn’t bad, but it’s getting low voltage or too much resistance. See attached for how to test for power, ground and voltage.

 

 

 

If the Pertronix is installed, then best to leave it there if the OP is inexperienced and the above instructions be rewritten

[visionaut]

28 minutes ago, jimk said:

above instructions be rewritten

Ty looks to have prior experience with the M30 and e24. But agree, don’t try testing everything until you isolate the problem to ignition spark.

 

And it makes NO sense to rewrite the instructions I provided - that’s how to test and troubleshoot a PerTronix install. Whether it needs doing or not is different question…

 

Forgot to include one last PerTronix tip;

"Four & Six cylinder engines require a minimum of 3.0 ohms of primary resistance. NOTE: If your Ignition coil has the recommended primary resistance, remove or bypass all external resistors. Do not remove resistors if the coil primary resistance is lower than 3.0 ohms."
 

[jimk]

1 hour ago, visionaut said:

Ty looks to have prior experience with the M30 and e24.

Don't think that helps much on a Kettering ignition system.