Took 2 hours to remove the plugs!

[NonStopTy]

1 hour ago, visionaut said:

Ty looks to have prior experience with the M30 and e24. But agree, don’t try testing everything until you isolate the problem to ignition spark.

 

And it makes NO sense to rewrite the instructions I provided - that’s how to test and troubleshoot a PerTronix install. Whether it needs doing or not is different question…

 

Forgot to include one last PerTronix tip;

"Four & Six cylinder engines require a minimum of 3.0 ohms of primary resistance. NOTE: If your Ignition coil has the recommended primary resistance, remove or bypass all external resistors. Do not remove resistors if the coil primary resistance is lower than 3.0 ohms."
 

Appreciate it!! That is very elaborate…

I got a new battery just want to get her cleaned up before I run this test.
 

Hoping it still works fine! My next question is the carburetor. Is there an article how to take it apart and clean it? Last time I took one apart was on a motorcycle and it was much smaller. 
maybe a rebuild kit I can buy? It has the Weber carb on in, what I’ve read is it’s an upgrade. 

[visionaut]

28 minutes ago, jimk said:

Don't think that helps much on a Kettering ignition system.

 

7 hours ago, NonStopTy said:

This car has upgraded the distributor rotor to the Petronix.

It’s not points, Jim 

[visionaut]

28 minutes ago, NonStopTy said:

Is there an article how to take it apart and clean it?

You probably don’t want to take the Weber 32/36 apart right away, just clean it with some carb cleaner, maybe lube linkage, and check vacuum lines…

 

I’d assume the calibration jetting on the carb is ok to start off. But when you want to get further into it, there’s a thread in this forum on Weber 32/36 jetting prescriptions. And if you’re determined to disassemble it, since it’s not OE, you might want to pick up a Weber Tuning reference, along with a 32/36 rebuild kit.

 

Edited May 10, 2023 by visionaut

[NonStopTy]

51 minutes ago, visionaut said:

You probably don’t want to take the Weber 32/36 apart right away, just clean it with some carb cleaner, maybe lube linkage, and check vacuum lines…

 

I’d assume the calibration jetting on the carb is ok to start off. But when you want to get further into it, there’s a thread in this forum on Weber 32/36 jetting prescriptions. And if you’re determined to disassemble it, since it’s not OE, you might want to pick up a Weber Tuning reference, along with a 32/36 rebuild kit.

 

Oh shit for real. I will take you advice and not touch it for now. 
 

Do you think its necessary to do a valve adjustment before I try to start her up? Or just get new gasket for now and see how it’s running. 
 

thank you. 

[visionaut]

Valve adjustment won’t affect starting, unless they’re all very off, which would be unlikely.

It’d help if you knew if it was parked while it was still running or it was parked due to a problem.  But I’d focus on incrementally seeing that all the basics are working:

 

Mechanical

Oil & lubrication are good. No physical impediments or interference to motor turning. (engine turns manually, plugs out). Cylinders have compression.

Fuel

Fresh fuel being delivered to the carb. Carb operates (squirts) when applying throttle. Manifold vacuum lines connected properly.

 

Electrical

Fuses are good. Starting and ignition wiring and grounds are good. Coil is good.  Ignition firing order is correct. Spark is visible at the plugs. Static timing is correct.  Dizzy advance mechanism operates.

 

[jimk]

4 hours ago, visionaut said:

 

It’s not points, Jim 

Meaning it's not like an E30 or an E24 that use black boxes.

[visionaut]

1 hour ago, jimk said:

Meaning it's not like an E30

I believe he said m30, the ‘big six’. That’s  points with a dizzy ain’t it?

 

And it was also E34, ( I typoed E24) which I concur is black box…  
 

[2002iii]

16 minutes ago, visionaut said:

I believe he said m30, the ‘big six’. That’s  points with a dizzy ain’t it?

 

And it was also E34, ( I typoed E24) which I concur is black box…  
 

m30's had distributor and points until 1982, then they went to the cam driven rotor like the m20.

[Son of Marty]

In the Euro markets some early m20's also had distributors and points.

[jimk]

Well hell, some days I'm less confused than others.

[NonStopTy]

1 hour ago, visionaut said:

I believe he said m30, the ‘big six’. That’s  points with a dizzy ain’t it?

 

And it was also E34, ( I typoed E24) which I concur is black box…  
 

You are correct in both matters..

There is no such similar upgrade for the m30 either as far as I know….everybody is still running the distributor. 

[NonStopTy]

3 hours ago, visionaut said:

Valve adjustment won’t affect starting, unless they’re all very off, which would be unlikely.

It’d help if you knew if it was parked while it was still running or it was parked due to a problem.  But I’d focus on incrementally seeing that all the basics are working:

 

Mechanical

Oil & lubrication are good. No physical impediments or interference to motor turning. (engine turns manually, plugs out). Cylinders have compression.

Fuel

Fresh fuel being delivered to the carb. Carb operates (squirts) when applying throttle. Manifold vacuum lines connected properly.

 

Electrical

Fuses are good. Starting and ignition wiring and grounds are good. Coil is good.  Ignition firing order is correct. Spark is visible at the plugs. Static timing is correct.  Dizzy advance mechanism operates.

 

Thanks appreciate it!

 

What’s going on w this fuse box? Ca this be updated in a way? I think these are fuses right?? Lol

 

 

 

[visionaut]

Yes, that’s the 12V 2002 Fuse Box.  You update it by taking the plastic cover off and cleaning it, then clean each fuse holder, and check/replace fuses as required. The little sticker next to it tells you exactly what each fuse controls to make troubleshooting easy.  
 

My 435i has 4-5 fuse boxes spread around the car.  It’s often difficult now to find out what each fuse does, let alone which fuse box it’s in and where it’s located in the car.

 

Fuse boxes are NOT dinosaur items.  Lol

 

The 02 bullet-style fuses work just the same as the newer spade style used in all cars today…

2002s are simpler and easy to wrench on. ( part of the appeal). WAY more so than even an E34, let alone any current car.

[Son of Marty]

Yes those are your fuses there's no direct replacment for them but one thing you can do other than cleaning the contacts replace all the aluminum fuses with copper ones they are cheap and you can get a bunch cheap on amazon.

[NonStopTy]

12 hours ago, visionaut said:

Yes, that’s the 12V 2002 Fuse Box.  You update it by taking the plastic cover off and cleaning it, then clean each fuse holder, and check/replace fuses as required. The little sticker next to it tells you exactly what each fuse controls to make troubleshooting easy.  
 

My 435i has 4-5 fuse boxes spread around the car.  It’s often difficult now to find out what each fuse does, let alone which fuse box it’s in and where it’s located in the car.

 

Fuse boxes are NOT dinosaur items.  Lol

 

The 02 bullet-style fuses work just the same as the newer spade style used in all cars today…

2002s are simpler and easy to wrench on. ( part of the appeal). WAY more so than even an E34, let alone any current car.

Thanks guys!! 
I have never seen fuses this old not even on my 69 sea ray! 
Is it even worth trying to clean them or should I just get all new fuses and clean the bracket?

Amazon you say? That always makes it easy….

last time I was buying car parts for a BMW rebuild was about 2011-13. Amazon was a fraction of what it is now lol.