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Stuck front strut bolts


RoulerCo
Go to solution Solved by tech71,

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I’m having a problem loosening some lower bolts on my front struts. I’m trying to drop the struts out so that I can add some lowering springs, but I’ve hit some snags and I need some advice…

 

I read on another discussion post that the easier way of getting front struts out from the car is to loosen the pivot bolt and remove the sway bar end link bolt aswell as the 3 bolts at the top of the strut. However, my bolts are really seized on and have probably never been out the car before, so I’m having real issues loosening them off. Particularly the pivot bolt.

 

I have been debating just cutting the nuts off or using a nut breaker to split them. But I haven’t seen these types of nuts before (they have little notch gaps all the way around them) and I don’t know if I need to replace the ones I potentially split with like-for-like, or if I can use modern equivalent lock nuts to replace the ones I cut off. 

can anyone recommend what type of nuts I should use as replacements and have any recommendations for loosening off the nuts? I would try heat but I think the pivot arm has a rubber bushing directly behind it

 

I have tried penetrating oil and brute force and swearing a lot so far 😆


thanks

Dan 

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You should be able to take off the 3 top nuts off the strut bearing and the sway bar link to the control arm and pull the strut down so the top clears the fender.  No need to remove the bottom nuts to the tie rod or front torsion bar.  Then a spring compressor on the original spring and an impact gun on the nut of front strut will remove the strut bearing, cap and spring.  Record the order of the washers and spacers for reassembly with the new spring.

 

Mark92131

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1 hour ago, RoulerCo said:

I haven’t seen these types of nuts before (they have little notch gaps all the way around them)

Those are castellated nuts, there's a steel, split pin that goes thru the bolt and fits in the notches to prevent nut from backing off.

To remove the nut you first have to pry out the pin.

Newer parts usually have a nylon insert lock nut but nothing wrong with what you have there.

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Edited by tech71
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76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

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27 minutes ago, Mark92131 said:

You should be able to take off the 3 top nuts off the strut bearing and the sway bar link to the control arm and pull the strut down so the top clears the fender.  No need to remove the bottom nuts to the tie rod or front torsion bar.  Then a spring compressor on the original spring and an impact gun on the nut of front strut will remove the strut bearing, cap and spring.  Record the order of the washers and spacers for reassembly with the new spring.

 

Mark92131


Thanks for this I’ll give this technique a go when I can 👍

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You need to know that usually the lower strut attachment bolts are the 3 that screw in from the bottom that hold the strut/wheel hub/brake on to the arm you are trying to remove, not those circled.

 

In addition once the castellated nut is removed the tie rod it fit into the arm by a tapered fit that unless you have a tool to separate the ball joint, it won't come separate.  Leave that nut alone, if the tie rod end is damaged, you have real job growth.

Edited by jimk
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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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6 hours ago, paulyg said:

Your car needs an alignment, I'm like 110% sure that bottoming out the tie rod adjustment is never good. 


the car isn’t on the ground at the moment which is probably why

 

edit: I see what you mean now. The thread is all the way tightened?

Edited by RoulerCo
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As everyone said, you are kind of undoing the wrong bolts. The bottom of the strut attaches to the wheel hub with three bolts through the ball joint. If you undo that, the strut will separate from the wheel hub assembly. Also the ball joint it also held to the wheel hub assembly by 1 big bolt. Good time to replace the ball joint as well.

 

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4 hours ago, Mark92131 said:

 

Here's an example of this technique.  You will need a good spring compressor to make it work.

 

Mark92131

 

WWW.CYCLOPTICGAZE.COM

 


ahhh I get it now! I was trying to pull the strut down without compressing the springs. I didn’t think of compressing them.

I thought you were saying to compress the springs when the strut is out of the wheel arch. Not to help get the strut to fall out of the wheel arch 😄

 

I’ll have another go at the weekend 👍

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21 hours ago, RoulerCo said:


the car isn’t on the ground at the moment which is probably why

 

edit: I see what you mean now. The thread is all the way tightened?

Yup. The two ends of the tie rod have a threaded barrel in the middle. The clamps loosen and turning the barrel toes the steering knuckle in/out. There should be equal threaded length showing on both ends of the barrel. 

 

Also you have the skinny early control arms and the one in the picture is bent, like mine was. 

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1 hour ago, paulyg said:

Yup. The two ends of the tie rod have a threaded barrel in the middle. The clamps loosen and turning the barrel toes the steering knuckle in/out. There should be equal threaded length showing on both ends of the barrel. 

 

Also you have the skinny early control arms and the one in the picture is bent, like mine was. 


ah ok I’ll have a look at that and put it on the list of things to do👍

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