M10 + E12 Carnage & Rebuild

[ajordan282]

1 hour ago, Aaron R said:

What a PITA. Hope you get it figured out soon! 

 

thanks me too!  Non A/C season is slipping away lol

 

1 hour ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

Your meter must be bad.  The Innova 5568 timing light has a built in dwell meter (as well as a tach and volt meter) and a variable advance setting to let you read the amount of advance the distributor is giving throughout the rpm range.  It is a very useful tool.

 

Tom

 

the meter is my dads he bought in the late 70's lol  typically i prefer things with needles to things with digital readouts but I may have to breakdown and get a new meter.  thanks for the rec that looks like a nice unit.

['76mintgrün'02]

On 5/14/2024 at 7:57 AM, ajordan282 said:

the meter is my dads he bought in the late 70's lol  typically i prefer things with needles to things with digital readouts but I may have to breakdown and get a new meter.  thanks for the rec that looks like a nice unit.

 

I like vintage test equipment too.  The only problem is, it often needs to be repaired, due to failing capacitors and/or cracked wire insulation (etc.).  That hasn't kept me from dragging vintage equipment home, but I haven't gotten around to testing/repairing most of it.  My Sun distributor tester is from 1973 and works well, after replacing the capacitors and following the calibration instructions.

 

The first dwell meter I had (still have, but don't use) was (is) a cheap-o that has a thin plastic cover over the gauge and it's slightly bent, so it interferes with the needle unless I squeeze the plastic case to free it up.  I used it like that for years.  You might check yours, to see if the needle's movement is being hindered.

 

I added adjustability to my points (I basically copied the design in my old Suburban's distributor) so I can adjust them with the engine running, while watching the dwell meter.  It's interesting to witness how much adjustment is needed between degrees on the digital light, based on how much I need to twist the adjuster.  

 

The BMW Blue Book (service manual) gives instructions for setting the dwell that utilize a remote starter switch.  You connect the dwell meter and tighten the points' hold down screw just enough that they don't move on their own, but can be moved using a screwdriver between the notch and the two little bumps on the plate.  Then, spin the engine and adjust while watching the meter.  Done.  (The Blue Book is available in the Articles section of the FAQ).

 

The BEST thing about the Innova 5568 is the variable advance feature.  It's like having a distributor tester in the palm of your hand.  The dwell meter and volt meter are added bonuses.  

 

I applaud your use of points/condenser.  You're welcome to join the club.

 

Tom

[ajordan282]

Thanks all for the input!  A little update:

• After a second look at the kfish by H&R and reassembly the car idles well.
• Would run and drive but was starving for fuel.  replaced with late model fuel pump. car is now running great!  I believe a flow rate check on the old pump would've identified this issue sooner.
• Tidied some things up, got all the lights/signals working, and took it out to Great Falls C&C Saturday morning. I ran out of time/sobriety to slap the hood on Friday night before the meet. this was well received.
• I am still fighting a passenger's side oil leak.  I have sealed and resealed the oil pressure sending unit(s).  I have verified I installed a crush washer on the 'weepy' dist housing hole.  I think some of it may be coming from the oil cap on the valve cover, but still looking for other sources.  the manifold studs are bone dry.
• I ordered an IE exhaust because I want to hear this kitty purr a bit louder  

 

Edited June 3 by ajordan282

[Aaron R]

5 minutes ago, ajordan282 said:

Thanks all for the input!  A little update:

• After a second look at the kfish by H&R and reassembly the car idles well.
• Would run and drive but was starving for fuel.  replaced with late model fuel pump. car is now running great!
• Tidied some things up, got all the lights/signals working, and took it out to Great Falls C&C Saturday morning. I ran out of time/sobriety to slap the hood on Friday night before the meet. this was well received.
• I am still fighting a passenger's side oil leak.  I have sealed and resealed the oil pressure sending unit(s).  I have verified I installed a crush washer on the 'weepy' dist housing hole.  I think some of it may be coming from the oil cap on the valve cover, but still looking for other sources.  the manifold studs are bone dry.
• I ordered an IE exhaust because I want to hear this kitty purr a bit louder  

 

A big hell yeah on all of this. Glad you’re mobile. On the IE exhaust — install it carefully. Mine sounds excellent but it will rattle and whack into stuff if you don’t take your time installing. Otherwise it’s mint. 

[ajordan282]

15 minutes ago, Aaron R said:

A big hell yeah on all of this. Glad you’re mobile. On the IE exhaust — install it carefully. Mine sounds excellent but it will rattle and whack into stuff if you don’t take your time installing. Otherwise it’s mint. 

 

good to know.  would you recommend the exhaust mount they sell to help prevent this??  Mine is missing.

 

Transmission/Exhaust Bracket Set – 2002 – Ireland Engineering | Racing & Performance Parts for BMW & MINI

WWW.IEMOTORSPORT.COM

---

Each

 

[Aaron R]

20 hours ago, ajordan282 said:

 

good to know.  would you recommend the exhaust mount they sell to help prevent this??  Mine is missing.

 

Transmission/Exhaust Bracket Set – 2002 – Ireland Engineering | Racing & Performance Parts for BMW & MINI

WWW.IEMOTORSPORT.COM

---

Each

 

Yeah, I would snag that and throw it on there. 

[ajordan282]

Seeking tribal wisdom on sealing up the oil pan. 

 

Upon original assembly, I mindlessly used the cork gasket supplied in the victor reinz bottom end kit, pre-treated with permatex high tack spray (both sides) and torqued it to spec.  It pretty much leaked from the first heat cycle as far as I can tell.  I retorqued it after a few drives to no avail.  It doesn't do much when cold but after running it leaves a little puddle.

 

I now know that the cork gasket is widely detested here on the forum.  I also know that redoing the pan gasket in the car SUCKS.  Anything else I can try before I replace it with a paper one?  Any current gasket/treatment recs?  Was going to do it at 600 mi. when I change the break-in oil.

[Son of Marty]

Chances are your oil pan has been over torqued and the bolt holes have been pulled to the point where they hit the block before the gasket is clinched. Take a small bell peen  and place it in each bolt hole and with a second hammer gently reverse the crown so that the gasket is clinched tight. 

[Aaron R]

What @Son of Marty said. Probably better to lift the engine, smack the flange flat, throw a paper gasket with some Hondabond on it, and go from there. Worth doing once.