Rust inside door frame

[BaaderMeinhofWagen]

7 hours ago, tech71 said:

Would love to see a review from someone who's installed one, MVP door that is.

I guess I'll write a review when I eventually install them.

[Alexander]

My fellow RAF Urban Guerilla,

 

Don't waste your time trying to clean and repair that rust. Most of it is in the seam between the door skin and the frame, where you can't see it. Pour some used motor in there and let it sink in to the seam. That will preserve it for now until you get a healthy door. You can use new motor oil, but why waste it ?

 - Proletarier aller Länder vereinigt Euch!

 

Edited October 28, 2023 by Alexander

[BaaderMeinhofWagen]

8 hours ago, Alexander said:

My fellow RAF Urban Guerilla,

 

Don't waste your time trying to clean and repair that rust. Most of it is in the seam between the door skin and the frame, where you can't see it. Pour some used motor in there and let it sink in to the seam. That will preserve it for now until you get a healthy door. You can use new motor oil, but why waste it ?

 - Proletarier aller Länder vereinigt Euch!

 

😂 yup. Not just the door seems but also around the outside of the belt line trim holes. I'm going to order two new door assemblies and probably a new trunk lid from Blunt.

My car was repainted by the PO some time ago in an unknown blue colour with white stripe which will be difficult to match. 

my plan now is for a full respray.

Original colour was Polaris silver I think.

[g_force]

Yeah, a lot bears on how good the MPV whole doors are. A patch to the lower 1/4 of the door is the best from a fit perspective, as it retains the original door (assuming the door is an original). 

[TobyB]

Quote

Corrosion could have been exasperated

 

I'm exasperated by all the professional advice to replace the doors.

 

Having hung a few, it's hours.  And then the bodywork to make it fit

(yes, you DO have to do metalwork to fit new doors.  Especially 3rd party doors)

And more metalwork to get the hardware to fit.  And more metalwork to get them to sit flush.

And then drill the trim. Then paint it. Then it rusts, just like the above.

 

So:  A penetrating wax will almost stabilize what's above.  It will still rust, but glacially

compared to where it's sitting today.  Can you live with that?

Grinding away 98% of the rust, then etch priming, then topcoating will help a lot 

with the exposed surface rust, as noted above.

 

A repair skin section can be welded in by a competent person.  I am by no means

a professional, but I have managed to fix 4 out of 4 doors with skin sections varying from

4" square to 40" square.  And yes, they look better than aftermarket doors.

And no, they haven't rusted away in the last... hmm... 25 years, now?

Nope, there aren't a lot of shops that want to do this.  But working on these things is 

what makes them fun.

 

t

cranky tonight, no?