Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

recommended oil


Hano
Go to solution Solved by Mike Self,

Recommended Posts

I would like to see the used oil analysis for oil condition and wear metals of these suggestions.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

oooo- an oil thread!  It's like miatas...

 

How about 15-50 mobil 1?  That works purty good in de race kar.

 

t

 

edit- Jim, the analysis guys say it's 'pretty good' but certainly not as good as Amsoil.

 

Edited by TobyB
Amsoil is always best.
  • Like 4

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/5/2024 at 6:02 PM, tech71 said:

Been driving 02s for many years using regular oil and camshafts have not been an issue, ever.

One of life's little mysteries--M30 engines--basically an M10 with two more cylinders--historically have experienced cam wear, which, as tech71 says, has never been a problem with M10s.  The cams on my two showed no wear after 227k and 204k miles with normal 4000 mile oil changes, all using conventional oil.

 

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, the M30 has half again as many bearings- does it use the same pump as the M10?

You'd think it'd want more volume, especially at idle...

The ZDDP didn't go away until the mid- 2000's- so engines that were well broken- in 

before then didn't have many problems.  

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, TobyB said:

The ZDDP didn't go away until the mid- 2000's- so engines that were well broken- in 

before then didn't have many problems.  

More so if your running the stock cam and springs.

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, TobyB said:

The ZDDP didn't go away until the mid- 2000's- so engines that were well broken- in 

before then didn't have many problems.

It's still around on SAE 40 and thicker stuff.  Went away in lighter stuff because of new cars with catalytic converters.  Most newer cars use SAE 30 and lighter, except for people that are under the thicker is better impression.   The Amsoil Z-Rod stuff can be had in SAE30 High Zinc because it's for Roddin.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

After a 10w-30 break in, I run M1 15w-50, my go-to for the older cars (TR6, old Rovers), however I may be converting the entire fleet to Redline 10w-50 for simplicity and volume pricing....three of the fleet take a combined ~31qts of oil😀  High, but not excessive P/Zn and Mo, high flash point, etc.

1974 '02 Golf 'Gabby', few Porsches and leaky British things.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...