My next project 1974 2002tii

[Jim_75Sahara]

Good luck! I favor recapturing the original look and feel of the tii. It was never a turbo in the first place. But.... it's yours. Follow what feels right to you.

[Tulah007]

4 hours ago, Jim_75Sahara said:

Good luck! I favor recapturing the original look and feel of the tii. It was never a turbo in the first place. But.... it's yours. Follow what feels right to you.

 Leaning towards that, but not right away.

plan is to get the drivetrain installed and then work out the nasty rat nest wiring. 
 

WN glass at 30% off is the best deal I can find. 
my cart is overloaded…hahaha

hopeful my cart items are in stock 

[bergie33]

34 minutes ago, Tulah007 said:

 Leaning towards that, but not right away.

plan is to get the drivetrain installed and then work out the nasty rat nest wiring. 
 

WN glass at 30% off is the best deal I can find. 
my cart is overloaded…hahaha

hopeful my cart items are in stock 

 

Just remember, if your order goes over about $800 (USD, not EUR), you will get a fat bill from UPS to cover the custom duties.  I learned that one the hard way.

[Tulah007]

52 minutes ago, bergie33 said:

 

Just remember, if your order goes over about $800 (USD, not EUR), you will get a fat bill from UPS to cover the custom duties.  I learned that one the hard way.

This is very helpful info. Thanks.

[Tulah007]

I finally got some time to check this thing out a little deeper. It might sound crazy to some but when I bought the car I was inspecting for rust and rot primarily, checked engine numbers to vin and title, looked at a few boxes of stuff included and pulled the trigger. I really didn’t fully inspect all aspects. 
I think I underestimated it. 
I have no bright work, trim, glass, and the wiring in the engine bay is an absolute mess. 
I have front and rear seats that are nice.
no seat tracks.

The dash is kinda shot too.
 I need everything else for the interior. On the dash I think I can spend a few days and restore it. If it comes out bad, I can look into a replacement but they are so dang expensive.  
 

I have wired up a ton of American Muscle stuff using aaw , quick wire or painless . I can use one of those harnesses and make it all pretty and functional for under $400. I’m seeing a new custom wiring harness from the up for $1600. 

 

I plan to give the engine a better inspection this week. I peeked into the oil cap hole and it looks neglected.  From what I’ve been told it’s been sitting since 2015. 
1st thing is make sure this engine is good. 
 

I appreciate the messages and parts offers. 
I’ll have some stuff for sale soon as well and have no idea on how to price them. I’m an American muscle guy. lol 

I have 
74-76 grills and kidney in fantastic condition 

new packaged from BMW

2002 letter badge

2002ti letter badge

2002tii letter badge

exterior door handle, no keys great condition 

rear wheel hubs, splined shaft, spacer

hood opener latch rod 

[Mike Self]

Coupla things:  

• Be advised that there are two different 2002/2002tii rear panel badges:  one with a flat back for roundies, and another with a slightly curved back for squarelights.  All 2002 ti's were roundies so that one should have a flat back.  When you go to sell yours, be sure and specify which one you have.
• Armed with the correct factory wiring diagram (find 'em on the FAQ), some cloth tape (hockey stick tape, bias tape, non sticky friction tape etc) and patience, you can sort out your existing wiring harness.  The rats nest appearance is due to the original cloth tape in which the wire were bundled having disintegrated and the wires are now free to flop all over the place.   Those wires are all color coded, and many in your harness are still attached to terminals, relays etc, so with some patience (and John's wiring sketches when you're stuck) you should be able to sort out most of 'em.  A lot cheaper than a new harness.
• A friend did a very credible job of patching his cratered dashboard with some very fine (like a silk handkerchief) fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin.  He works on wooden kayaks and canoes, and this is what he uses on them.  Did it all in place, and it still looks good after several years of summers and winters. 
• If you have any 2002 keys (or can get a blank), you can make your key(s) work with those door locks.  If you want to do it yourself, PM me and I'll send you a column I did on making ignition and door locks use the same key when they didn't start out that way...
• Finally...get it driveable--mechanically, glass in the windows, etc, then worry about the trim.  Plenty of used trim floating around; shouldn't be too difficult to find what you need.

Good luck, and don't be shy about asking for help

 

mike

[Tommy]

On 1/12/2024 at 12:36 AM, Tulah007 said:

fender flares was bolted in but the fenders wasn’t cut. Front air dam wasn’t cut great at the flare meet up. Not sure what direction I wanna take this thing.

It would be great timing to turn back if the fenders can be fixed!

 

There's obviously quite a few bad decisions made. Fitting flares over original arches, what's the sense? Air dam fitting - aargh! Black bedliner stuff in engine bay - hurting my eyes. Leaving the side marker holes.

 

How is the paintjob overall? It doesn't look like too much effort was put in it based on engine bay and oversprayed wiper assembly etc. If it's not great, I would suggest stripping it all off and making things right. If it's decent then maybe you can figure out ways to make it look nice enough. Anyway, It's not gonna be a turbo, not even that good replica but it could be a really nice oem tii increasing its value all the way.

 

 

[Tulah007]

1 hour ago, Mike Self said:

Coupla things:  

• Be advised that there are two different 2002/2002tii rear panel badges:  one with a flat back for roundies, and another with a slightly curved back for squarelights.  All 2002 ti's were roundies so that one should have a flat back.  When you go to sell yours, be sure and specify which one you have.
• Armed with the correct factory wiring diagram (find 'em on the FAQ), some cloth tape (hockey stick tape, bias tape, non sticky friction tape etc) and patience, you can sort out your existing wiring harness.  The rats nest appearance is due to the original cloth tape in which the wire were bundled having disintegrated and the wires are now free to flop all over the place.   Those wires are all color coded, and many in your harness are still attached to terminals, relays etc, so with some patience (and John's wiring sketches when you're stuck) you should be able to sort out most of 'em.  A lot cheaper than a new harness.
• A friend did a very credible job of patching his cratered dashboard with some very fine (like a silk handkerchief) fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin.  He works on wooden kayaks and canoes, and this is what he uses on them.  Did it all in place, and it still looks good after several years of summers and winters. 
• If you have any 2002 keys (or can get a blank), you can make your key(s) work with those door locks.  If you want to do it yourself, PM me and I'll send you a column I did on making ignition and door locks use the same key when they didn't start out that way...
• Finally...get it driveable--mechanically, glass in the windows, etc, then worry about the trim.  Plenty of used trim floating around; shouldn't be too difficult to find what you need.

Good luck, and don't be shy about asking for help

 

mike

Thanks Mike. Good advice all around. 
The painter didn’t mask anything, including the harness. It’s all cream color . I cant really identify much of it. From my findings, this was painted years ago and sat. It still has some of the masking tape and it’s hardened over.  I’m fairly confident this harness is unusable. 

 

36 minutes ago, Tommy said:

It would be great timing to turn back if the fenders can be fixed!

 

There's obviously quite a few bad decisions made. Fitting flares over original arches, what's the sense? Air dam fitting - aargh! Black bedliner stuff in engine bay - hurting my eyes. Leaving the side marker holes.

 

How is the paintjob overall? It doesn't look like too much effort was put in it based on engine bay and oversprayed wiper assembly etc. If it's not great, I would suggest stripping it all off and making things right. If it's decent then maybe you can figure out ways to make it look nice enough. Anyway, It's not gonna be a turbo, not even that good replica but it could be a really nice oem tii increasing its value all the way.

 

 

Very questionable approach on the body here. If it was me, I would have welded up all the holes and cut the arches. No idea what was going on then but weird for sure.  For the actual paint , it’s good. I have minimal experience with the chaminox color so I can’t really tell if they matched it good but it’s all the same color , the paint covered well and shines nice with minimal orange peel.  It’s quite glossy and the overall exterior paint job is actually nice. I would have sprayed it better but I guess every painter feels that way . What really is off is the engine bay. That kind of sloppiness would never pass at my shop.  
harness is covered in paint and bed liner.

and yeah, bed liner in a engine bay…WTF?

 
I want to go back to original but it feels like I need to invest a big chunk of $ to achieve that. Some big ticket items need done, like the $1600 harness and $700 air box , $2000 behr ac system, expensive oem wheels, etc.  I don’t know how much $ I wanna invest into this ride. The easy part for me is getting the body back to original like dumping the flares and air dam , then welding up the 100 holes which I’m sure would turn out to be a huge hassle. Im sure id burn through a few along the way. lol.  I dont mind the bodywork or paint though, that was my job for 30 yrs. lol. 
not sure I wanna go through all that time and $ and end up upside down.
Id guess that a decent restored to oem 74 2002tii is valued in the $20k-$30k range. If I went original I’d definitely exceed that range with parts and my labor. 
if I go a modded route I can get to the finish line sooner and probably a lot cheaper. 
I wouldn’t mess with the body much. I’d plug the knee trim holes with grommets and get the turbo style decal to cover it up
add a short rear bumper , waist trim and badges and call the body done!
To get it running again I can

do an AAW wiring harness on a $500 budget and swap out the timing stuff and intake to go carb or Holley sniper.  Not sure I really wanna do that though. I’d love keep the oem kugelfisher setup. So many tough choices to be made. 🏁🏁🏁

[Tommy]

1 hour ago, Tulah007 said:

Id guess that a decent restored to oem 74 2002tii is valued in the $20k-$30k range. If I went original I’d definitely exceed that range with parts and my labor.

I think you're low with your estimate. Being able to do the bodywork and paint yourself it's definitely worth it!

Getting the wiring fixed or replaced should be possible cheaper, oem wheels maybe not that expensive but yeah, all the trim, bumpers, interior, etc. does add up.

[2002iii]

It doesn't look all that bad. The wiring can be fixed even if mice have eating into it. Painless wiring is an oxymoron.

 

The paint doesn't look that bad, it can be wet sanded andbuffed and polished to fix imperfections.

 

The black bedliner is weird but not all bad, you want have to worry about rust.

 

The fender flares look fixable. You just need to remove them and trim the excess fender metal underneath.

 

For the price you paid you are doing just fine.

[Son of Marty]

I think that painting over the bed liner is going to be your only viable option it would take forever and a day and about 1/2 of 3m's yearly sanding disc production to get it off. A 1" hole saw (I believe) center plug will make the prefect filler for the side light holes.   

 

 

 

 

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