How to bend strut tubes for more camber

[Daily02]

Hello, 

 

It was noted in the spring rate poll that one of the setups mentioned bending the strut tubes for more negative camber in front (-1, -1.5 degrees).

What method have you used to do this successfully?

 

Regards

 

Dono

[2002iii]

I only know of Alpina and Ireland Engineering doing this modification. I assume it involves a jig to hold everything in place and some sort of hydraulic press to do the bending. Like a pipe bender.

 

A cheaper and easier alternative is fixed or adjustable camber plates.

Edited January 24 by 2002iii
More info added

[Daily02]

I already have fixed camber plates. I just wanted more negative camber, and was hoping that there was a non complexed procedure for this modification. I would like too avoid the offset roll center spacer as well. Longer control arms are another option. 

 

Regards

 

Dono

[gracer]

I used a press and a jig that I built.  A big iron channel bolted to the strut and carefully pressed the strut until I had the angle that I wanted.  

A word of warning!!  Doing so will change the distance between the tire and the strut.  You may have to run a wheel spacer or get different offset wheels.

[TobyB]

Quote

a non complexed procedure

 

does that make it a simplex procedure?

 

I've never done it, since, as Gordon says, it chews up space between the strut and the tire,

and I never had much of that to spare...

 

t

 

[visionaut]

02 struts, let me at ‘em!

[uai]

and if you do it wrong your shocks won't fit the struts anymore...

[Daily02]

This is good. Bringing up the potential problems.

 

How big a press is required?

 

I would stay on the lighter side of the adjustment. I am trying to equalize the camber right to left without bearing camber plates. I currently have Bluntech fixed plates. The car is for street, and traveling. Heim end adjustable camber plates would be a huge mistake for me even though it is the easy button here.

 

I also thought about slitting the tube, bending it, and mig welding it at the proper angle. 

 

Or even easier would be redrilling the strut hats for the correction.

 

I will likely go with longer control arms for additional camber. 

 

 

 

Regards

 

Dono

[uai]

you can adjust ±0.5° by re-drilling the  standard strut bearings.
And if you're handy with an oxyfuel burner you don't need a press.
It's not that easy to measure 1° so i'd first recommend on getting two china inclination thingies and building a fixture to measure reproducible the angle between strut tube and e.g. Brake caliper threads.
Also your future shocks should be tapered at the lower end like e.g. koni, spax, sachs

Edited January 29 by uai

[tzei]

I ground top mount fender holes and tilted top mounts inwards as far they went without modifications to top mount itself. Got me about -1 deg. camber.

[uai]

13 minutes ago, tzei said:

I ground top mount fender holes and tilted top mounts inwards as far they went without modifications to top mount itself. Got me about -1 deg. camber.

with smaller diameter springs?

[tzei]

No, oe springs. 

[Daily02]

My Bluntech fixed camber plates have the stock hats all the way over against the inner opennings. I would need back of the side that is more negative than the other which is undesirable. That is why I want the adjustment with the strut tube. 

The side with too much positive camber had a badly blown strut -the bump stop had exploded- and tie rod end trashed. The strut is likely bent from bottoming from the previous owner. He just kept driving it. The control arm is undamaged. 

 

Regards

 

Dono

[2002iii]

1 hour ago, Daily02 said:

My Bluntech fixed camber plates have the stock hats all the way over against the inner opennings. I would need back of the side that is more negative than the other which is undesirable. That is why I want the adjustment with the strut tube. 

The side with too much positive camber had a badly blown strut -the bump stop had exploded- and tie rod end trashed. The strut is likely bent from bottoming from the previous owner. He just kept driving it. The control arm is undamaged. 

 

Regards

 

Dono

Sounds like replacing the bent strut and getting longer control arms should fix all your troubles.

 

Danjer sells very nice looking longer control arms.

 

I would leave the strut bending and most things alignment related to the professionals. Why go through all the trouble of building a jig and experimenting, when you can just buy one from someone else already done?

[Son of Marty]

Or you could just buy some Bilstein/Alpina neg camber struts and have the valved for your use.