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Koito H4 kits CHEAP!!!!!


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18 hours ago, Mike Self said:

Is your Camry a 4 or a V6?  We have an 07 V6 RAV4 with 144k miles and it burns no oil between changes (done with conventional oil at about 5k miles).  I have heard that Toyota engines don't tolerate dirty oil very well and will clog up if the oil isn't changed frequently, but that may go back to the 90s or early 00s. 

 

mike

It is 4 cylinder engine. I change oil on all our cars at 5K intervals regardless using conventional or synthetic oil. At time I asked supervisor take me to the shop and show me engine apart. mechanic  commented never seen engine so clean. 

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76 2002 Sienabraun

2015 BMW F10

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On 3/21/2024 at 10:09 PM, Mike Self said:

Is your Camry a 4 or a V6?  We have an 07 V6 RAV4 with 144k miles and it burns no oil between changes (done with conventional oil at about 5k miles).  I have heard that Toyota engines don't tolerate dirty oil very well and will clog up if the oil isn't changed frequently, but that may go back to the 90s or early 00s. 

 

mike

 

i have a 200 series landcruiser with close to 300000 miles doesn't do anything and has never needed anything in all these years and miles and abuse i've put it through it literally cruisers the land

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18' Racing Yellow 911 GT3
71' Agave Green 2002
10' Silver Landcruiser 200 series
10' White Landcruiser Prado 150 series

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My 1988 Toyota 1 ton pickup with a 22re fuel injected motor has over 250,000 miles still on the original head gasket. It has transported multiple bmw engines and many other parts over the years and still has plenty of power. It's been in my family since 1991. I call it Trusty Dusty because it always starts right up and is usually covered in dust from sitting under a tree where it sits for long periods while I don't need to haul anything that won't fit in the subaru Wagon.

 

My first car was a 1991 Toyota camry That I would probably still have if my sister hadn't totaled it. It was easy to work on and reliable.

 

Most older Toyota's are pretty indestructible as long as you change the oil regularly. 

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I lucked out and was home before my wife came home today so I didn't have to explain...

 

❤️you Toyota!  Toyota of Lakeland, FL...

 

 

KoitoBoxes.jpg

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  • Haha 2

'73tii Inka 🍊

'74tii Fjord 🏄‍♂️

 

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14 hours ago, JohnS said:

I lucked out and was home before my wife came home today so I didn't have to explain...

 

❤️you Toyota!  Toyota of Lakeland, FL...

 

 

KoitoBoxes.jpg

Nice stash! Now you need a few more cars for them. (cars are less easy to hide).  My 2 sets may be enough....but good call on your part.

 

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Wiring question. When installing these lights along with the harness, would the two original relays be eliminated?  Leaving just the two new relays and two empty relay plugs, or would all 4 be present? Thanks Fred 

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10 hours ago, fsf517 said:

Wiring question. When installing these lights along with the harness, would the two original relays be eliminated?  Leaving just the two new relays and two empty relay plugs, or would all 4 be present? Thanks Fred 


If your squaretail already has the dual relays for high/low beams why not just use them and skip installing the new relays and harness? I only swapped in the headlights on mine. The bulbs are just 60/55 watts..

 

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Where we goin’? … I’ll drive…
There are some who call me... Tom too         v i s i o n a u t i k s.com   

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Right...  Relays powered by relays are a bad-idea-unnecessary-complication.  I don't know the rating of the relays in the square tail light cars, but 60W x 2 = 120W, less than the rating of the cheapest DIN relay that I've ever seen.

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When I installed the kit's wiring harness to power the driver's side bulb and left the passenger's side bulb wired as-was, there seemed to be a slight increase in light on the d's side.  The p's side light had a tiny bit more yellow to it, but the difference was subtle.  The car was not running, so they were not as bright as if the alternator was spinning.

 

I followed the instructions given in this thread, plugging the  new harness into the driver's side bulb socket.  I assumed it'd be using the socket's power feed as the trigger feed for the new lights, since they tap power directly from the battery.

 

If that's the case, are the "relays powered by relays" or just triggered by them?  Is that also bad?

 

I'm not going to bother with installing the extra wiring anytime soon.  The improvement over my old lights with corroding reflectors will be enough to suit my needs.

 

I've used the little tube of silicone grease included the kit on my Subaru.  I haven't found a use for the thirty zip ties yet, but they're nice to have too.  This was a very generous offering by Toyota.

 

Tom

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From that description, and assuming you have a later car with relays, the driver's side bulb will have originally been powered from those relays, triggered by power from the light switches in the cabin.  Those relays will now be used to trigger the JDM relays in the kit which are fed directly from the battery - less current through the car's original relays but more complicated under the hood. 

 

Less current through the car's original relays is probably a good thing, but relays do usually have a minimum current spec.  The action of closing the contacts along with the actual current flow keep the contacts clean and break through the layer of oxidation that builds up over time.  Would this be a problem in this particular application?  Probably not.  Worst case, the new relays don't go click sometime in the future, and you'll need to open up the car's original relay cans and clean the contacts.  No way to know about the relay minimum current thing without an actual spec.

 

On the other hand, if the path through your car's original relays and the wiring that powers the headlights has higher resistance than the new relays and Toyota supplied wires, you'll see brighter lights with the Toyota harness.  No way to know about the relative resistance of the two paths without measuring it. 

 

So, it comes down to your preference.  I prefer simple and would just use the original wiring in a car that already has relays unless it doesn't work on first try.

 

For early cars that don't have relays, it's another matter entirely- put in the whole kit, which duplicates the relay function that's been advocated in the FAQ since the dawn of time for higher power headlights.  The weak wiring and old switches in those cars will suffer badly with higher power headlights.

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FYI, you guys did it!  You bought them all out.  Just got off the line with Toyota Parts Overstock.  The lights are now backordered with no ETA.  Nice job guys! 👏👏👏

 

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Bob

BMWCCA #4844 (#297 of The 308)

1974 2002 Sahara, MM 2400 Rally engine, MM 5 speed and conversion

1976 2002A Anthracite parts car

1991 525i AlpinweiB II

2002 330ci AlpinweiB III

2007 530xiT Titanium Silver

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I'm glad I bought 4 sets.  Installed on the Inka car and I'm going to change out the Marchal Ampilux lights on my other car.  I actually think these throw a little more light and have a great look to them.  Love that thick glass lense.

Mike Katsoris CCA#13294                                                

74 InkaGangster 4281862

2016 Porsche Boxster Spyder,    2004 BMW R1150RT,  
76 Estorilblau 2740318                      

 
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