Koito H4 kits CHEAP!!!!!

[mike472]

3 hours ago, calicolorado said:

I bought these and it’s just a beautifully put together set, Toyota OEM quality is second to none! Now that I have them, I laid out the harness and realized I would have redundant wiring in the nose (duh)  if I use the new kit. What are folks doing with this? Removing the original headlamp wiring? I’d really like to keep the wiring as original as possible for troubleshooting etc. Is there a straightforward way to add a relay to the existing ‘02 harness and use the Koito lamps with what’s there instead?  
 

(found what I was looking for I think) here:

 

 

Use the whole harness as is. You will immediately take all the load off all the switches in your headlight system. Don’t piecemeal it. Trying to do what you suggested will not solve all the problems with both the high beam and low beam circuits like this harness will in one felled swoop . Just tuck the original wiring on the passenger side down into the nose. 
This harness has two relays and two nice blade fuses all wired  together perfectly.
All you have to do is bolt the relays somewhere next to the radiator and wire tie the fuses near the driver’s headlight and plug the male three prong plug into the driver’s side headlights plug and plug the headlights into the female plugs. Done

 

['76mintgrün'02]

3 minutes ago, mike472 said:

All you have to do is bolt the relays somewhere next to the radiator and wire tie the fuses near the driver’s headlight and plug the male three prong plug into the driver’s side headlights plug and plug the headlights into the female plugs. Done

 

You also need to take power directly from the battery to the new harness, or you're simply adding to the length of wires feeding the bulbs, which is actually creating more resistance.  No?

 

 

[mike472]

10 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

You also need to take power directly from the battery to the new harness, or you're simply adding to the length of wires feeding the bulbs, which is actually creating more resistance.  No?

 

 

In this case it is minimal compared to all the high current that had to flow through your dipswitch and your headlight switch on dash. You will have effectively changed your original relays into low current switching devices. Your headlights will be brighter as a result of having none of this stuff in between. Another bonus is all of this wiring is much more efficient and reliable than what the factory used. Your inside switches will thank you for it

['76mintgrün'02]

If the new harness is taking its power from the old plugs, how is it an improvement?

 

Here's Rocco's description from page one of this thread.

 

It’s simple plug and play. Plug the new leads into your headlights, plug the drivers side harness plug into the existing socket of your driver existing headlight socket, run the passenger side plug from harness behind the radiator and plug it into the bulb. The passenger side existing harness plug becomes obsolete. 
 

Attach the red wire to the hot + side of the battery, attach the black side to the negative side of the battery. 
 

Mount the relays wherever you like. 
 

Boom, done and done…

 

Edited August 11 by '76mintgrün'02
added Rocco's info

[Son of Marty]

On the square light cars both hi and low beams have relays so no high draw current makes it to the switches just the closing current for the relays. All halogen bulbs are very voltage  sensitive and should be feed directly to the relay with a fuse of course to the relay then the bulb, do not take the feed off the alternator the dirty dc will decrease you bulb life a lot.

[mike472]

It only receives a low current signal from the original relays now. The Toyota harness carries the load and connects directly to the battery. There is no longer any high current running through all the wiring leading from the engine compartment to the controls and back anymore. All those relays and switches don’t have any high current load anymore 

['76mintgrün'02]

7 minutes ago, mike472 said:

The Toyota harness carries the load and connects directly to the battery.

 

I spoke up because you skipped that detail in your instructions above. 

 

Thanks for the clarification.

Tom

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Son of Marty]

So I don't understand on cars that have the factory relays where the high load through the switches is coming from.

[visionaut]

I have a 76er with both high & low beam relays. BTW, those are the ONLY cars I’ve advised folks to not use the ‘yota wiring harness…

 

Looked to me like there was direct battery to relay power…

 

 

[popovm]

53 minutes ago, visionaut said:

I have a 76er with both high & low beam relays. BTW, those are the ONLY cars I’ve advised folks to not use the ‘yota wiring harness…

 

Looked to me like there was direct battery to relay power…

 

 

Cool, that’s what I thought I remembered and why I only installed the lights and not the harness in my ‘76. Gonna save the harness for driving lights. I actually thought it was all square tails/late cars that had that direct to battery setup but I guess it’s the 76s (late late?) and not all late cars. 
 

Btw, why didn’t you guys tell me the M4 bolts holding in the lights are made of butter? Just spent a few evenings getting to this point even without installing the harness. The lights do look nice and fresh though…
 

 

Edited August 12 by popovm

[Son of Marty]

All of the 3 relay cars would have the direct battery feed, so thats 74-76 cars.

[mike472]

6 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

All of the 3 relay cars would have the direct battery feed, so thats 74-76 cars.

I stand corrected.  They still used heavy guage Yellow and white wire that looks like it was made for high current on the light switch.  There are a few of them on the headlight switch that look pretty heavy.  That's what got me thinking that there must still be quite a load going through that wiring.

[roadhog0]

Finally walked over to the dealer and picked up a set. Something like 35 bucks all in. They were above MSRP.... Still cheaper than shipping though! Maybe I'll try them on the '02. I like the output on my Hella's, but the pattern isnt my favorite.

[John76]

On 8/11/2024 at 2:20 PM, Son of Marty said:

So I don't understand on cars that have the factory relays where the high load through the switches is coming from.

The '76ers have three relays (High beam, Low Bean and Horn), and none are powered directly from the battery. 

The Low beam relay tab #30 routes through the ignition switch and headlight switch.

The High beam relay tab #30 comes through the ignition switch.

 

On 8/11/2024 at 5:10 PM, visionaut said:

Looked to me like there was direct battery to relay power…

Yes, but only for the auxiliary lights (fog or driving).

 

 

 

 

 

[popovm]

5 hours ago, John76 said:

The '76ers have three relays (High beam, Low Bean and Horn), and none are powered directly from the battery. 

The Low beam relay tab #30 routes through the ignition switch and headlight switch.

The High beam relay tab #30 comes through the ignition switch.

 

Yes, but only for the auxiliary lights (fog or driving).

 

 

 

 

 

So in other words, it would be a good idea to use the harness that comes with this kit that goes direct to the battery? I was going to skip that assuming that the relays in the 76 meant direct to battery but sounds like that is not true at all and that even the 76’s factory wiring was a little sketchy!