Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Rear subframe metal/rubber mount #9 UPDATE SOLVED!


Recommended Posts

10 minutes ago, NickVyse said:

Isn't it one of those fail safe ideas - loose the nut and you won't loose the bolt, or completely separate the subframe from the car?

Figured that to be true and maybe a little assembly line efficiency peppered in too. Faster and simple to install at the factory if both bolts already in place.  

 

Either way, it's a pain in the ass to replace the mount with the subframe up in the car and them bolt threads facing forward.  

 

If you look closely at the shop manual depiction-the long chassis bolt (#8) is obscured for reference of location. It says to me it's clear there has always been an issue with assembly while on the car. 

 

see tag line below

 

 

Edited by conkitchen

But what do I know

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, conkitchen said:

Figured that to be true and maybe a little assembly line efficiency peppered in too. Faster and simple to install at the factory if both bolts already in place.  

 

Either way, it's a pain in the ass to replace the mount with the subframe up in the car and them bolt threads facing forward.  

 

If you look closely at the shop manual depiction-the long chassis bolt (#8) is obscured for reference of location. It says to me it's clear there has always been an issue with assembly while on the car. 

 

see tag line below

 

 

 

The instructions in the shop manual say to remove the long knurled bolt first (#8).  Then you don't have an issue with it being in the way.

 

subframebushingremoval.thumb.jpg.840285d7f6aca9e78bd91894e4105c98.jpg

  • Like 2

Karl B.

1974 2002tii Malaga ("Conrad") -->> Conrad's Restoration Blog

2003 330i ZHP 6-spd

2011 328i xDrive

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, bergie33 said:

 

The instructions in the shop manual say to remove the long knurled bolt first (#8).  Then you don't have an issue with it being in the way.

 

subframebushingremoval.thumb.jpg.840285d7f6aca9e78bd91894e4105c98.jpg

Dammit! why did you show me that?

I have those blue manuals but did I ever look at that section, no. 

Driving that bolt up and out sounds like just as much of a pain as is to do it the other way.  

 

all I know is I'm reinstalling with the bolts in the danger zone.  

 

 

  • Like 1

But what do I know

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, conkitchen said:

Dammit! why did you show me that?

I have those blue manuals but did I ever look at that section, no. 

Driving that bolt up and out sounds like just as much of a pain as is to do it the other way.  

 

all I know is I'm reinstalling with the bolts in the danger zone.  

 

 

 

 Go for it, Maverick. New lock nuts, locktite, correct torque, check 'em periodically.  I'm sure they'll be fine. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Karl B.

1974 2002tii Malaga ("Conrad") -->> Conrad's Restoration Blog

2003 330i ZHP 6-spd

2011 328i xDrive

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have to look at mine.  I may have defeated the safety feature too.

 

Just looked,  I'm good to go, nuts forward!

Edited by jimk
  • Haha 2

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So let us know if replacing those took care of the thump!

‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

‘56 Savage Model 99 in .250-3000

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, 0257 said:

So let us know if replacing those took care of the thump!

Funny you ask, it did not.  I am gonna endeavor to look at the exhaust maybe hitting the tank or subframe or perhaps even a rear shock might be blown and froze causing the spring to rattle. Bit by bit is what it takes to sort a car out.  

But what do I know

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My last mile on that one was the center muffler on the subframe.  It’s a game of mm.

Edited by 0257
  • Like 2

‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

‘56 Savage Model 99 in .250-3000

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I little more intel to tell ya, should you still care to read this.  

 

The rear muffler rubber hangers are drooping and with a little effort can make the tail pipe bang the tank and tail panel. Now that being said, there is no evidence in ways of scratched paint or exposed metal to prove this is the culprit. I went and shored up those soft rubber hangers to where the muffler can't possibly bounce off anything.  Still the damn noise can be heard.  One thing I do notice is that either something is very loose or floating around inside the tank makes a sound. However, it's more of a hollow note rather than a thud when the car hits a bump in the road.  

 

Question: how much vertical movement is normal in the rear subframe mounts?  I can with a prey bar generate about a half inch of travel up and down. Again though, no evidence of metal on metal.  

 

Help me Obi Wahn you are my only hope.  

Edited by conkitchen

But what do I know

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, conkitchen said:

The rear muffler rubber hangers are drooping and with a little effort can make the tail pipe bang the tank and tail panel. 

Are the plastic half moon filler pieces still there?

636322_x800.webp

  • Like 1

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

Are the plastic half moon filler pieces still there?

 

Yes'er 

 

I might have to check the jack and lug wrench although I was certain they are locked down.  

 

It's like trying to figure out which smoke detector has a low battery.  

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

But what do I know

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...