1967 2000c with 2002tii engine having some issues.

[jkraft]

I finally got my 2000c finished after 10 years and on the road.  I did a complete strip down repaint and rebuild.  The car I purchased did not have the original engine so I installed a 2002tii engine,  technically it is from a 74 520i.  The engine reportedly had 60,000 miles an ran when pulled.  Once I got it installed an got everything right it started right up and ran remakably well.  I did several test drives and got everything working well.  FYI I have new brakes, lines, master cylinder, clutch cylinder, slave cylinder, electronic ignition etc etc.  One evening I took it to the store a  1.5  miles from my house and it ran fine.  When I tried to start it for my return it was very difficult and began to run poorly, sputtering coughing etc.  When I got to a stop light on a very slight hill on green it died and I couldn't restart it.  I tried to let it roll back and it wouldn't move.  I doubled checked it was in neutral and the emergency brake was off.  A police officer came and called for a tow truck and I manage to start it and back down the hill to a side street but it was not easy.  It still could not be push or moved.  I waited for the tow for the usual hour and when he got there it could be moved.

 

Sorry for the long backstory but I have searched many threades, all of which have been more than helpful but contine to be stumped.  I have set everything up per the articles I have found.   Adjusting Fuel/Air ration on a Tii.  I have even disasembed my WUR cleaned and boiled it to confirm it is working.  I have opened the KF removed cleaned and reinstalled the top end everything looked fine.  Removed cleaned a tested the injectors all good.  Checked for intake air leaks and don't find any.  I have the vaccum line from the intake manifold connected to the brake housing and installed a check valve.  So once it warms up and the WUR valve is extended the 10 mm it all starts.  It seams starved for air?  Alot of coughing noises from the engine compartment rough running and this is further exasprated by the brakes as the car becomes hard to move.  

Once it cools it goes back to fine.  I have had some great short drives and the car is a blast to drive for a while.  I am really scratching my head and would appriciate any ideas.

 

One note is I do not have a tii pedal but have managed to adapt the 2000c pedal with an extended linkage.  I know I read alot about the importance of the linkage with the KF.  My engine has one linkage from the KF to the throttle body linkage and it is adjusted per the spec.  

Thank you in advance for any advice as what I am missing.

[resra]

If all those you say checked out correctly, have you looked at the throttle body butterfly? Is it opening and closing properly? If that stays open your symptoms may persist. 

[jkraft]

It appears to be operating fine.

[Son of Marty]

The first thing I see is your filter is installed on the return line it's possible that if it clogs up it will raise your system pressure causing the rich running.

 

PS that's going to be a nice car once you get it sorted.

Edited March 13 by Son of Marty

[Mike Self]

I somehow have to believe that the rough running and the locked brakes (you said it wouldn't move even in neutral with the e-brake off) are somehow connected.  The only way they would be is via the vacuum booster for the brakes.  The stated fact that the car could be pushed after things had cooled down makes me even more suspicious of a somehow connection.  

 

Did you make sure the check valve between the vacuum booster and the manifold is functioning properly?  If it's stuck open it'll cause all sorts of weird things--like too much air into the engine and locked brakes...

 

mike 

[Hans]

What did you do to prep the gas tank? That vac hose from intake past booster looks pretty scuzy - cracks? I'd add another clamp.

[Hans]

And. Looks very nice. I have same colour euro CS.

[tzei]

Something wrong with the brakes. Booster rod to MC correct lenght?

[Son of Marty]

On the brake issue is the residual pressure valve plumed to the rear drum brakes, if it goes to a disc system the pressure will build over a few uses of the brake until it locks up.

 

Marty

[jkraft]

Gas tank is "new" had it cleaned at a radiator shop.

New hose and check valve on brake booster.  Clamp removed as I have been experimenting with it removal.  To double check the arrow of the check valve should be ointing to the manifold?

The rod between the brake petal and the MC is at the correct spec.

 

I have front disc with real drums.  This is what was original I believe.  I have heard about a problem with the two different types causing problems? Balance?

 

After warm up even stationary the engine runs rough and seams starved?  My first though on the brakes was the boster vaccum and I did not have a check valve at first but the check valve did not stop that problem.

 

I relaced the thermostat but have noticed the water pump barley squeaking.  I installed a new alternator and am waiting for a new alternator bracket to give more adjustment.  Right now I get some squealing at start up.  Interestingly it seams that while it is squealing it is rough and then when the noise stops it runs smoothly.  The water pump is not loose so I did not replace it but I will.  Connected?  I have used an infrared thermometer to verify coolant circulation.  I have an 80 degree thermostat.

 

I installes one of those "electronic" distributors since the engine did not come with one.  I have noticed it gets very warm and I am wondering if it might be a problem?

 

Thank you for your input it is very helpful!

[tzei]

Rough running - check for air leaks.

squealing & rough - alt belt slips. After getting traction charges normally, better spark, smooth running. How old is your battery? Engine to chassis grounds ok?

[dlacey]

2 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

your filter is installed on the return line

Picking-up on @Son of Marty's point: it looks like your fuel supply is plumbed the wrong way? i see something that could be the fuel return line plumbed to the front of the KF pump and the filter may be in the feed line but plumbed to the back of the pump? If its like that it won't work properly because the back of the pump has a one-way pressure-relief valve... 

The brake binding problem is probably a booster/servo related hydraulic issue... maybe the booster is stuck in some way causing a vacuum leak thats affecting engine running?

[jkraft]

😋Well that was fun.  Thank you son of Marty.  You got that one right.  I switched things around and I just returned from a "long" fast ride.  It was amazing.  There is nothing like the growl of the tii engine!  I only noticed when I got home my smoking brakes but at least they didn't slow me down!  I ordered a water pump as it is definatley going. 

 

Next the brakes.  I was not really using them on my long ride so it must be a vacuum issue or some other issue.  Tommorrow.

 

Thank again for all your help and suggestions.  It is nice to have a panel of "experts"

 

 

 

 

[Son of Marty]

How old are your rubber brake lines? If they have never been replaced it's time they deteriorate and swell shut so that when the brakes are applied the pressure from the master can be forced out to the brake but the return fluid is not pressurized and is very slow to drain back.  

[Schnellvintage]

Does the brake booster have one way check valve and is it installed correctly?  That little pipe does not look correct.