Advice for this newbie who needs to replace a wheel stud?

[PhilC]

Just now, PDX.Duke said:

 

Studs sure are more appealing to me, both for ease of wheel removal & install as well as because I just bought a full set of pretty and shiny chrome Alpina lug nuts from Coupe King for my Alpina wheels.

 

You'd recommend bolts over studs? How come?

Simply because that is what the hub was designed to take. It’s up to you though, a proper set of stud converters will be fine.

[AceAndrew]

Duke,

 

Thank you for the pictures.  Apologies if what I'm going to write has already been said.  It's late and I'm tired.... lol.

 

You have a set of standard 2002 struts w/ the common "Volvo BBK" which utilizes "late" E21 hubs.  This hub and the stock 2002 hub share the same bearings, which is why the swap is possible.  The caliper is the from a Volvo 24X.  You may notice that the pad sits proud of the OD of the disk by 3/16" of an inch, for this reason some companies (like IE) will reposition the caliper mounting holes further down so as to sit flush with the pad (and give you a bit more wheel clearance in the process).  What you have functions fine, but just be aware of the difference if you ever run into wheel fitment issues.

 

I like those lugnuts and run them myself, along with 12x1.5x57mm studs.

Also, it appears that there is no safety wire present on your steering arm bolts (the three bolts at the bottom of the strut housing, attaching it to the pitman arm).  Please put safety wire (or locktite) on them before risking too much more driving. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/148190-please-verify-i-did-this-right-safety-wire/

 

[Son of Marty]

There's no reason to break and of the brake pipes loose just remove the 6mm bolt that holds the l bracket to the strut remove the caliper and I hang it from the brake pipes where they come through the inter fender with a wire tie, I used to use metal close hanger wire but those kind of hangers have pretty much gone MIA.

[PDX.Duke]

@AceAndrew 

 

Thanks for your late night reply! SUCH great and useful info!

 

I've read mentions of the Volvo BBK, good to know that's my setup. Also useful to know that the E21 hub shares the 02 bearings.

 

I very much appreciate you noticing and pointing out the lack of safety wire on the steering arm bolts. Just added this to ever-growing my ToDo list ✅!

[PDX.Duke]

3 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

There's no reason to break and of the brake pipes loose just remove the 6mm bolt that holds the l bracket to the strut remove the caliper and I hang it from the brake pipes where they come through the inter fender with a wire tie, I used to use metal close hanger wire but those kind of hangers have pretty much gone MIA.

 

OK, cool! I think I see what you're talking about. The bolt that hold that L-bracket on, however, in my setup is 13mm. Is this (photo below) what you're referring to?

 

[Son of Marty]

Yes that's the one, Hardware is commonly referred to by the size of the bolt it's self, not the nut or bolt head size, but I was wrong it's a 8mm bolt not a 6mm bolt.

[PDX.Duke]

@Son of Marty 

 

"Hardware is commonly referred to by the size of the bolt it's self, not the nut or bolt head size:"

 

That makes perfect sense!

Look at that, I learned something useful today.

 

Thanks!!!

[PDX.Duke]

So, I pulled the caliper and rotor off and am now able to see exactly what I was expecting to see (what @AceAndrew euphemistically referred to as a "non-recommended "improvisation"): The remaining 3 studs having also been tack welded to the front face of the hub.

 

 

 

I can't imagine not replacing these wheel studs (and almost certainly the drivers side too once I get over there).

 

QUESTIONS:

 

1. Am I correct that I could elect to replace with either screw-in (like whats on there now) or press-in studs? If so, is there an advantage of one over the other?

 

2. How might I go about removing these tack welded studs? Honestly, to my neophyte eyes, they don't look like they're doing a whole hell of a lot. I assume I'll be removing the hub and I'd like to think I can get these out without damaging the hub itself. I've bought a map-pro torch which I understand can be helpful in loosening up Loctite bonds, but what will I need for these obnoxious snotty welds? Would the "double-nut" method in reverse work here? The one stud seemed to come out without even trying, which might indicate that these other welds are not going to put up much of a fight. Was the lug on the stud that came out overtightened? I have no idea - that wheels' been off only once since I bought the car, for rotation,  and that was by someone else - a mechanic who I'm inclined to trust.

 

3. If I go press-in, is Loctite sufficient to eliminate the risk of the stud coming out again in the future (providing lugs are not installed having exceeded proper torque specs)?

 

4. The current studs are approx 58mm (I'll get a proper caliper reading once my just purchased, 1st ever, caliper arrives in the mail tomorrow). Although the old lugs (I've got a fresh set of chrome Alpina lugs waiting to install) seemed to fit these studs and wheel (authentic Alpina 13") just fine, what is the best way to determine the proper stud length"

 

Thank you all!  I cannot begin to express my appreciation for the advice, replies and information I've been receiving here. The reassurance of having this knowledge base available has given me the courage to  keep my sleeves firmly rolled-up.

Edited May 21 by PDX.Duke

[Son of Marty]

I've always liked the studs over the bolts it's much easier to mount the wheel with them although Mikes cut off temporary bolt would make mounting the wheel about the same, When I install the studs I put them in the freezer the night before and then use red loc-tite on the hub end. Your hubs will not take press in studs with out some machine work when they are presses in they have teeth that cut into the hub to hold them no loc-tite needed.

[PDX.Duke]

55 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

I've always liked the studs over the bolts it's much easier to mount the wheel with them although Mikes cut off temporary bolt would make mounting the wheel about the same, When I install the studs I put them in the freezer the night before and then use red loc-tite on the hub end. Your hubs will not take press in studs with out some machine work when they are presses in they have teeth that cut into the hub to hold them no loc-tite needed.

 

Freezing them I presume reduces them, ever-so-slightly, in diameter, making them easier to install?

 

Does the low temp effect the loctite at all?

 

PS. I love how every time I've typed the word "loctite", autocorrect changes it to lactate. lol

[Son of Marty]

How cold is your freezer? red loc-tite is good to -65'f so no prob there, yes the cold reduces the dia. so when it warms the stud is held tighter in the hub.

[jimk]

52 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

How cold is your freezer?

It won't be as cold as a good Minnesota winter.  I can't see putting them in a freezer doing much at all.

Edited May 22 by jimk

[TobyB]

That 'welding' is... ill- advised.

 

If you can get the studs to come out, then you may be able to salvage the hubs- hopefully

the welds penetrated as little as they look like they did.

 

Then some nice shouldered nippled studs are the beez kneez- I used to get mine from Turner,

but now that ECS has absorbed them, I dunno.  

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-340499-turner-motorsport-12x15-bullet-nose-wheel-stud-most-bmws-1984-2011-e30-e36-e46-e9x/?pdk=Ihw

 

Red loctite usually holds- on the race cars, it softens over time, but the street cars, it's usually ok if you really clean

things well.

 

You can't use a press- in stud with those hubs.

 

I do not like bolts- I leave them on the street cars because the wheels don't come off all that often,

but it's less than exciting for me, here, in my dotage.

 

t

 

[Son of Marty]

8 minutes ago, TobyB said:

That 'welding' is... ill- advised.

 

It's also illegal in the US.