Issues reinstalling a 123+ back into car.

[Pablo M]

I had to fix a leak at the distributor bracket so I took out my 123 distributor. I did not disconnect any wires. I just moved it aside to do the work. 
Prior to removal I marked where it was.

Once I completed the work I reinstalled the distributor to match the marks and reinstalled the cap. Again, nothing was unplugged. 
Started the car and seemed off so I figured I had to recalibrate the distributor to the actual timing on the crank pulley. When I opened the app it showed no map, see photo below. 
When I click Files I can see the two maps I created. I assume it’s reading the map I uploaded but the ‘no file read’ comment has me second guessing.  
 

If I pull the 123 am I supposed to reinstall it the same as initially installed? TDC, insert then rotate till you get the blue light, etc. 
 

[dlacey]

1 hour ago, Pablo M said:

Once I completed the work I reinstalled the distributor to match the marks and reinstalled the cap.

This means you aligned the dizzy body against your mark on the clamp, what about the rotor arm position? Did you mark that and confirm that (skew gear mesh)?

With the 123 software it's not completely intuitive... Opening and saving files has nothing to do with dizzy, it's just managing data on your phone... Read pulls the current curve from the dizzy and displays it in your screen. Write sends what's in your screen to the dizzy.

[Pablo M]

I did not mark the arm. I assumed, like the mechanical dizzy, that the arm would turn on the way out, and turn back to original spot on the way in. Is that not the case? Do I need to do the initial install again? 
 

Doesn’t the screenshot I posted indicate it’s not reading a file? I’m not certain it’s using the file I saved/wrote. Previously when I went to Curves it would show the current file it was reading. 
This is what that screen should look like:

(note, not the file I ended up using). 

[dlacey]

The 123 should hold the curve from its last use...so bigger chance your poor running is the rotor arm (and timing) are one tooth out if the rotor meshed differently on the way back. 

I would start by checking rotor points at No1 when at TDC(firing stroke) and the 123 green light just comes on.