Tractor sounding '02 - Help!

[Mikesmalaga72]

Learning quite a bit here thanks!

[bmw_e30]

i had this same exact issue a few years in 2018/19 it was a easy fix from what i rememeber

[NicholasMav]

Couple questions: 

1. Is there common cause of this type of thing?  

2. "IF" the only thing that's gone wrong (I know...big IF) is the headgasket, it's not a HUGE job, right?  What am I missing from the following:  Drain oil and coolant, disconnect appropriate hoses, unbolt head and top timing chain cover, pull off old gasket, and take a look around to see if everything else looks up to par, replace head gasket….and reverse the above.  What are the "while I'm in there" things?  Reminder: this was just rebuilt in 2018.

[Son of Marty]

You'll need to check the head for flatness, be sure to drain the block with the drain plug located under the exhaust manifold between 3 and 4 cyls, and clean and dry the head bolt holes. It will be easier if you set everything to tdc before you start.

[Mike Self]

WRT R & R-ing the head:  to make sure you get the valve timing back correctly, suggest removing the timing chain sprocket from the camshaft, then wire the chain together so that the links engage the sprocket most of the way around it.  Then bungee cord the sprocket to the hood catch, propping the hood open with a broomstick so it'll stay up.  

 

Since the sprocket will only attach to the cam in one position, that procedure will pretty much guarantee that the cam and thus valve timing won't be disturbed, and you won't end up with pistons and valves in an unholy embrace.  It'll also mean the chain won't come off the crankshaft sprocket, which will open an entirely new can of worms.

 

Oh, and while you have everything apart (stand by for mission creep) have the valves ground, and replace the stem seals with the later (E30) style seals--which may mean having to change the valve guides...

 

And...if you have the head surfaced, don't forget to have the shop surface the upper timing chain cover while bolted to the head.  Otherwise you're gonna have an oil leak at that joint.

 

mike

[OldRoller]

Also, when you remove the headbolts, do it with a socket/ratchet and check the tightness of the bolts. Heat cycles can cause headbolts to lose their tension over time, contributing to head gasket failure. You may find the bolts around cyl's 3-4 are less tight than the forward bolts. 

I found it easier to remove the head with manifolds attached... set the head on the bench on a wood block, then remove the manifolds. Much easier and quicker. 

Let us know what you find... 

[jimk]

10 hours ago, NicholasMav said:

Drain oil and coolant,

Coolant, including the block drain. 

[tech71]

19 hours ago, NicholasMav said:

Reminder: this was just rebuilt in 2018.

That was 6 years ago... Avoid additional disappointment, dont pin any hopes or expectations on a 6 year old rebuild overhaul

Edited June 13 by tech71

[TobyB]

Quote

1. Is there common cause of this type of thing?  

The number one cause of head gasket failure is head gaskets.

 

oh.  

 

I mean, overheating.

 

The number one cause of overheating is losing your coolant.

Followed by lean mixture, advanced spark timing, blocked radiator,

clogged coolant system, and so forth.

 

With the older composite gaskets, using the torque procedure and

not re-torqueing them at least once

after a few heat cycles really does seem to shorten their life- the 

'snug and rotate' procedure doesn't seem to have that limitation.

 

fwiw.

t

 

[NicholasMav]

Update coming soon...I think I have everything disconnected to remove the head with exception of the sprocket to the cam shaft.  I'm not 100% on the removal of that.  Suggestions happily received.  Just don't want to mess anything up.  I did ziptie the chain  around the sprocket so it doesn't lose it's positioning.  After the four bolts are removed...is it a gentle tap off the cam shaft?

[Mark92131]

2 hours ago, NicholasMav said:

After the four bolts are removed...is it a gentle tap off the cam shaft?

 

A few gentle taps with a plastic hammer should pop it off.  I usually hook a bungie cord to the latch on the hood and the sprocket to keep the chain tight on the lower sprocket and suspended out of the way as you remove and replace the head.

 

Mark92131

[NicholasMav]

Blown head gasket it is.  Already received new gaskets for head and valve cover. 
Any thoughts on state of things from the pics? I’m no trained eye, so relying on the expert eyes here if anything looks amiss. 

[TobyB]

Step the next is to clean the head surface carefully to see if it's eroded between the two cylinders...

and then check for cracks, and then straightness.

 

So far, as they say, so- so!

 

t

 

[NicholasMav]

54 minutes ago, TobyB said:

Step the next is to clean the head surface carefully to see if it's eroded between the two cylinders...

and then check for cracks, and then straightness.

 

So far, as they say, so- so!

 

t

 

Edit: used Scotch-Brite and carb cleaner.  Looks OK head has tiny little scratches, but no cracks that I can see. (See fourth pic.)

Edited June 23 by NicholasMav

[kbmb02]

Those scratches start a path through the fire ring..