Full resto - which look? (original, box or turbo flares)

[Dudeland]

10 hours ago, visionaut said:

 

Early period-correct 02 wide body designs = pulled fenders and pig cheek styles…

Looking at ETCC 1968-1971, BMW Works cars, both 02 and the 2800 CS, had pig cheeks. Alpina 1600 had pig cheeks.

 

 

Great site to get lost in…

http://touringcarracing.net/Pages/1969 Cars.html

 

 

That is what I am talking about.  I can't imagine what one goes for. If mine hadn't already been liveried as a turbo when I got it,  I would have gone pig cheeks for sure. 

 

BTW Progress.   Getting excited a tiny bit. 

 

[Dutch02fan]

On 7/22/2024 at 5:18 PM, visionaut said:

 

Early period-correct 02 wide body designs = pulled fenders and pig cheek styles…

Looking at ETCC 1968-1971, BMW Works cars, both 02 and the 2800 CS, had pig cheeks. Alpina 1600 had pig cheeks.

 

 

Great site to get lost in…

http://touringcarracing.net/Pages/1969 Cars.html

 

 

After some considerations and your views and pictures, I like the pig cheeks (wide body) the best. They are period correct for a 68 and were originally used by the BMW werks team. They also look more brutal than the turbo flares. Need a bit of getting used to,but once you’re there… 👍 Does anyone know of a good installation tutorial? As far as I know now, these fibre glass panels need to be glued and edges smoothened out with fibre glass. Some Michael Angelo finess will be needed there! 

[visionaut]

Start searching/reading…there’s a few different styles.  
 

The fronts are a relatively straightforward fender replacement, the rears have different methods, and can get tricky/complicated depending on the amount cutaway from the rear fenders (25% to 90%) and subsequent reinforcements needed.

 

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/240713-installation-of-pig-cheeks/

 

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/171506-box-flare-installation-tips/

 

Matt McGinn at Sportscar Restoration fabbed a set out of metal and posted lots of fab & installation pics, but I can’t locate that now… he even made a complete new inner rear fender.  I think it was back in 2009? maybe someone has a copy/link?

 

[Dutch02fan]

Ok, I’m scared now….

[markmac]

Having done most of the work on my Alpina car with its boxed flares, it's a fu*kload of work.  Hundreds of hours no doubt.  I probably would have been way ahead to have paid someone to do it - but then your 'hobby' isn't your hobby.  There is the cost of the flares, and some other materials and some fab work (to close off the inner wheel well where it needs to return to the flare/extension), its time, time, time, time.  As long as you have the time and reasonably mechanically inclined you can probably do it or at least get it close enough for someone to finish what you can't.  This is the link to Matt's Flickr account and albums.  There are a number of albums in there the shows at least some of what he does.....

 

I had to edit, funny I didn't look at the link above where I had a few pics of my car in shambles and then just after paint.....kind of a double post here I guess.  I stand by my comment ... and s-load of work.

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/29110923@N05/albums/

 

Good luck with your project

Edited July 26 by markmac

[Daily02]

Do what you want. If nobody else likes it... It is only a problem when you sell. If that could be in the plan.

Is a un-modified 1600 that rare? It is great starting with a relatively rust free car for any project. Have a solid plan before starting. Yes it will have scope creep. 

Since you are talking about cutting it up. Do it in bite sized stages as others have mentioned. Give the stages a priority. If power is the top swap the M20 6 in 1st. If the look is do the flares 1st. Etc.. Have what you want before body & paint it is very expensive, and redoing it is even more expensive. Hopefully this helps.

The dream stage is wonderful use it and create a good plan.

 

Regards

 

Dono

 

[Shawn Piper]

It’s an uncommon car so I get why people think it should stay stock. However restoring a car so that it’s 100% correct is often more challenging than doing modifications in my experience. 

Not sure what your imagining as the end state,  but I’m fresh off doing a full resto on my 2002 and I would caution against getting into a big project like that unless you have the prior experience and money. 

It might be easier selling that car off and getting something that’s closer to your desired vision. It will just be easier that way. 

[Dutch02fan]

On 7/26/2024 at 9:18 PM, markmac said:

Having done most of the work on my Alpina car with its boxed flares, it's a fu*kload of work.  Hundreds of hours no doubt.  I probably would have been way ahead to have paid someone to do it - but then your 'hobby' isn't your hobby.  There is the cost of the flares, and some other materials and some fab work (to close off the inner wheel well where it needs to return to the flare/extension), its time, time, time, time.  As long as you have the time and reasonably mechanically inclined you can probably do it or at least get it close enough for someone to finish what you can't.  This is the link to Matt's Flickr account and albums.  There are a number of albums in there the shows at least some of what he does.....

 

I had to edit, funny I didn't look at the link above where I had a few pics of my car in shambles and then just after paint.....kind of a double post here I guess.  I stand by my comment ... and s-load of work.

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/29110923@N05/albums/

 

Good luck with your project

I certainly believe by now that this is a s*-load of work, thx for sharing. And indeed, doing as much a possible our/my-self, is what it's about.

[Dutch02fan]

On 7/27/2024 at 7:39 PM, Daily02 said:

Do what you want. If nobody else likes it... It is only a problem when you sell. If that could be in the plan.

Is a un-modified 1600 that rare? It is great starting with a relatively rust free car for any project. Have a solid plan before starting. Yes it will have scope creep. 

Since you are talking about cutting it up. Do it in bite sized stages as others have mentioned. Give the stages a priority. If power is the top swap the M20 6 in 1st. If the look is do the flares 1st. Etc.. Have what you want before body & paint it is very expensive, and redoing it is even more expensive. Hopefully this helps.

The dream stage is wonderful use it and create a good plan.

 

Regards

 

Dono

 

Could you be in project management and/or product development, like I am? Haha, the "scope creep" just gave that away! I will use the dream stage and create a good plan, very good advice. "if you fail to plan, you plan to fail, right?

[Dutch02fan]

13 hours ago, Shawn Piper said:

It’s an uncommon car so I get why people think it should stay stock. However restoring a car so that it’s 100% correct is often more challenging than doing modifications in my experience. 

Not sure what your imagining as the end state,  but I’m fresh off doing a full resto on my 2002 and I would caution against getting into a big project like that unless you have the prior experience and money. 

It might be easier selling that car off and getting something that’s closer to your desired vision. It will just be easier that way. 

Let me share my current plan and I haven't touched the car yet, it's sitting in my garage and I haven't bought any parts  Nicely following the rules of the planning phase ;). I will stick with original fenders, do a stage 2 spring kit and will nicely fill the fenders out with 15x7" wheels and 195x50x15 tires. The top of the tires will go into the fender arches and that will give me the look/stance I'm after, no crazy fabrication needed, everything stays metal and original. In this way I can focus on the rest (body work, suspension, engine swap), which will still be more than enough.

[visionaut]

On 7/20/2024 at 5:11 PM, visionaut said:

But IMHO, this 1600 should stay slab-sided…

 

6 hours ago, Dutch02fan said:

I will stick with original fenders

Yep. 👍 

[JQ02]

Funny. I was planning on boxed flares (Zender) and an m20 swap before I bought my car cuz I'd always liked them and I wanted torque. Instead. Instead, I rolled the fenders and am going turbo.

I am about 100% over original budget, but it was somewhat of a conscious decision midway in when my economy autobody guy bailed and I found a lot of rust. Once I knew I was going to be 150+ hours on personal labor to disassemble it, I revised my plan and am going all in.

The thing that's hard to comprehend is how many little and medium sized things add up over time... like a $1300 order to W&N (2002 candy store) for lots of miscellaneous stuff.

It's definitely good to prioritize and figure out what can be done later. 

[Dutch02fan]

Yeah, things add up, I am finishing a Honda CB750 ‘78 and even there you can spend 1000€ on a small box with parts… I will do all the bodywork myself and if I don’t get a good quote for the paint job, will do it myself. Feeling confident on it and don’t like to be dependent on other people. Like I read here a couple of times already and from own experience doing our house renovation, cheap labour is usually not reliable…

[Teelinger]

Here piggy, piggy, piggy...

 

SHOP — SON OF COBRA

WWW.SONOFCOBRA.COM

 

 

Edited August 1 by Teelinger

[Dutch02fan]

Guys, need some advice on the rust on my sunroof. I was offered a complete roof with the separate movable roof plate for 200€ in very good condition. I’m asking myself if I really need that versus, repairing my roof by cutting/welding the bad sections… what do you think?