Trunk Seal Gasket

[Senna27]

While my car was in the body shop having some work done, they also installed a new trunk seal. Problem is, the black adhesive they used sticks really well to the body, but not to the seal. I'm going to re-attach it using Mastik One adhesive, which I'm told works really well. The trouble I'm having is trying to remove the old adhesive, without removing the paint. Looking for suggestions.

[Son of Marty]

Now days they use a mold release that contains silicone you'll need to scrub the glue areas with course steel wool or sand paper and some thing like 3m adhesive remover.

[jb]

...The "glue areas" or contact surfaces on the rubber seal, right?   My front cowl rubbers popped right off due to the silicone. 

 

Contractors D Solve It (available at Ace Hardware) is my go-to for removal of old adhesive without removal of paint.  It will take some work, but not too bad-- I use a soft plastic spatula. 

 

jb

[Son of Marty]

2 hours ago, jb said:

The "glue areas" or contact surfaces on the rubber seal, right?

Right.

[TobyB]

Yup- you really have to clean the contact area on the 'rubber' seal.

 

However,  after years of experience with adhesives, I'd say stick with something like

3M's 'Super Trim' adhesive in black.

 

Chemicals in cans are all very well and good (and yes, since it's designed for bike tires, it's likely ok)

but chemicals designed specifically for cars by manufacturers who have a long history of that sort of thing

are going to be... a lot less hassle in the long run.  

 

The advantage of the Super Trim is that it sticks to itself- and it looks like that's what's stuck to your paint.

 

t

 

[tech71]

11 hours ago, Senna27 said:

The trouble I'm having is trying to remove the old adhesive, without removing the paint. Looking for suggestions.

Don’t remove it, it appears to have adhered quite well to that painted surface so why bother? Just apply your chosen suitable adhesive over it.

It will adhere to what’s there quite nicely.

That sides not the problem, the shop failed to prep/degrease/remove mold release from seal adequately if at all.

Do what SOM says to prep the seal, then do it again. It’s a total time consuming PITA. I’ve found it helps to clamp the seal to a board a section at a time with spring clamps. Holds it in place so you’re not flailing around with the bloody thing the whole time your trying to scrub it.
Speaking of spring clamps…your going to need a lot of them😉

Quite skeptical of the Mastic stuff and you want to talk about something hard to get off your painted surface? That be it.

I’m with Toby on the 3M super trim.

Edited July 24 by tech71

[zambo]

Second to all the above - had the same issue with mine except it was just two small areas that came adrift. 
 

No doubt my scuffing and degreasing missed two spots. Once cleaned up the 3M Super Weatherstrip did its thing really well.
 

3M have discontinued the Super adhesive in Oz unfortunately so hoping the Permatex is as good for the door rubbers 🤞. 

 

It’s very satisfying when that seal is in place, you’ve adjusted your trunk lid latch and it closes nice and tight with a resounding “thunk”. 
 

Good luck with it. 
 

P.S. On the clamps, I bought a ton load of the old fashioned pegs from KMart - worked a treat - and you can throw them in the laundry when you’re finished rather than wonder what you’ll do with like 60-70 metal clamps. 

Edited July 24 by zambo

[Mike Self]

And just to disappoint you a little...my trunk seal has been installed now since1991, with a partial reinstall after a little shunt about six years ago.  And those two rear corners still periodically come loose and have to be re-glued (yeah, with the proper black stuff) and eleventy-million bulldog clamps.  Part of 2002 ownership:  periodically re-gluing your trunk gasket.  

 

mike

PS--put the seam at the 6 o'clock position; that's the way the factory did it.  No water leakage through the gap as there would be if in the 12 o'clock position.

 

 

 

[Mikesmalaga72]

Generally body shops have to spend extra time on those details which they don't have much of unless you specifically ask/pay for the labor hours on that trunk seal. If it was not specified on the invoice you're stuck, if it was on the invoice have them redo it otherwise you can save the money and prep for a complete install. Wax and grease remover or goof off for the body and a nylon scraper trim stick etc and as the fellow faqers say. Good luck 

Edited July 24 by Mikesmalaga72

[Son of Marty]

Ya know there must be some adhesive that works with out the clean and scrub routine, you don't see guys at GM scrubbing a seal before install, of course I have no Idea which adhesive they use. 

[2002iii]

1 hour ago, Son of Marty said:

Ya know there must be some adhesive that works with out the clean and scrub routine, you don't see guys at GM scrubbing a seal before install, of course I have no Idea which adhesive they use. 

Has anyone tried gorilla glue? Or maybe rubber cement?

[chargin]

Mine has routinely come lose over the last 5 years 

[Senna27]

On 7/23/2024 at 1:38 PM, Son of Marty said:

Now days they use a mold release that contains silicone you'll need to scrub the glue areas with course steel wool or sand paper and some thing like 3m adhesive remover.

 

Yes, I can tell surface of the seal is super slippery. I'll prep it properly before I apply the new adhesive. Although, that 3M product is hard to find in Toronto. Thanks.

Edited July 24 by Senna27

[Senna27]

On 7/23/2024 at 2:38 PM, jb said:

...The "glue areas" or contact surfaces on the rubber seal, right?   My front cowl rubbers popped right off due to the silicone. 

 

Contractors D Solve It (available at Ace Hardware) is my go-to for removal of old adhesive without removal of paint.  It will take some work, but not too bad-- I use a soft plastic spatula. 

 

jb

 

Yes, nothing stuck to the seal, due to the mold release and the fact it wasn't prepped properly.

Edited July 24 by Senna27

[Senna27]

19 hours ago, TobyB said:

Yup- you really have to clean the contact area on the 'rubber' seal.

 

However,  after years of experience with adhesives, I'd say stick with something like

3M's 'Super Trim' adhesive in black.

 

Chemicals in cans are all very well and good (and yes, since it's designed for bike tires, it's likely ok)

but chemicals designed specifically for cars by manufacturers who have a long history of that sort of thing

are going to be... a lot less hassle in the long run.  

 

The advantage of the Super Trim is that it sticks to itself- and it looks like that's what's stuck to your paint.

 

t

 

 

I looked for the 3M Super Trim Adhesive but couldn't find it locally. Canada lacks the selection of stuff available in the US. I did find one called 3M Super 77 Multi-Purpose Adhesive, but I'm assuming it's not the same. My friend, who gave me the can of Mastik used it to glue trim and seals on his Porsche and he said it's really good. I also like the fact that it's brush on, as opposed it being in a spray bomb.