Oil Pan R & R

[Hans]

Can the pan gasket be changed without pulling engine?

[Son of Marty]

Yes, but you do need to raise the engine a few inches to get the pan around the sub frame, there are several threads on supporting/lifting the engine to do this.

[Stevenc22]

Yes. Done it multiple times. You need a engine bar across the fenders  to lift the engine a few inches. Remove the distributor cap which might hit the firewall as you lift. 

[Hans]

Thanks. So both motor mounts need be free?

[Son of Marty]

21 minutes ago, Hans said:

So both motor mounts need be free?

Yes.

[Highnote1]

Also…for me…I hated this job! Should not be a big deal. Used a bar and raised it up…had the hardest time getting the thing on and off…and it still leaks. Truly one of the only failures I’ve had on the car…and I’ve done a bunch! 

[stephers]

The trick is to glue the gasket to the oil pan with a hi tack spray so it doesn't move when you are manipulating the pan back into position.

 

Thanks,Rick

[John76]

You can lift the engine with the head on (intake and exhaust manifolds in place) but need to unbolt the downpipe from the exhaust manifold. Loosen both engine mounts, remove the distributor, disconnect the front cooling hoses and lift the engine carefully.

Check that you are not snagging or pulling anything. May have to remove the radiator for extra protection. Don't lift higher than needed to protect stretching the transmission mount.

The pan will come off when pulled forward and twisted counterclockwise around the oil pump.

Don't give up...it's like a puzzle that takes some patience.

Pic below is after I pulled the head and radiator.

John

PS: If you've never pulled the pan on your car...you will be amazed at what you find down there. 😬

 

 

[Dudeland]

All I had to do was loosen the motor mounts.  I had to rotate the crank to the correct position to slide it out, but I have a header, so that might be the difference.  I'm not sure if it is different with a 75.

 

You can use "The Right Stuff" RTV sealant (not my first choice but ok).  I had to do mine three times. The first two didn't work because of a bent oil pan. 

 

Make sure yours is straight. Take the slack out of the bolts just until the sealant starts to touch the block—not much squish at all. Let the sealant tack up (see the instructions), then come back in the allotted period of time and snug down on them. 

 

Regards

 

[zambo]

About to do this with the engine on a stand - so infinitely easier. 

 

Would Permatex aviation sealant work with the gasket torqued down correctly, as opposed to RTV?

[gracer]

Rotate thr crankshaft 90* from 

top Dead Center.  It helps for clearance of the oil pan.

[Son of Marty]

Before reinstalling the pan make sure that the bolt holes are flat, the metal is soft and if the pan has been over torqued it bends the edges of the bolt holes inward preventing the pan from solidly contacting the gasket.

[Dudeland]

37 minutes ago, zambo said:

About to do this with the engine on a stand - so infinitely easier. 

 

Would Permatex aviation sealant work with the gasket torqued down correctly, as opposed to RTV?

That is the stuff I used, but dammit, it is so hard to get off.  The future me is going to have to put in a Turbo drain in the oil pan.   I feel so sorry for that guy! 

 

 

[BarrettN]

Would Hylomar Blue be a good choice for this application? 

[TobyB]

Quote

The future me is going to have to put in a Turbo drain in the oil pan. 

 

That's awfully low.  The factory turbo dumped into the bottom of the lower timing cover.

The oil pan is almost entirely covered in oil when the engine's running, and rumor has it

that you don't want to block the turbo drain pipe even a little bit...

 

t

Permatex Super Black RTV and done.