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Hot start issues


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14 hours ago, 200two said:

I did see that the previous owner had installed a fuel regulator forgot to mention that. To be honest I have not touched it since I got it, I assumed (maybe stupidly) it’s on the correct setting. @Son of Marty

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That Mr Gasket fuel pressure regulator is probably part of your problem. I bought one of those for my 2002, the first one didn't lower the pressure at all. The second one sprayed fuel all over the engine bay. Haven't had any issues with the one I bought from summitracing.com.

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@Stevenc22 do you mind listing the issues you see aside from the ones mentioned already? Still new to all this so I welcome the help. I got this a few months back as a working project.

 

For context that photo was half way through taking apart the carb so ignore the missing carb components.

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2 hours ago, 2002iii said:

That Mr Gasket fuel pressure regulator is probably part of your problem. I bought one of those for my 2002, the first one didn't lower the pressure at all. The second one sprayed fuel all over the engine bay. Haven't had any issues with the one I bought from summitracing.com.

Going to order a replacement, not worth the headache and it’s easy enough to swap lol

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3 hours ago, 200two said:

@Stevenc22 do you mind listing the issues you see aside from the ones mentioned already? Still new to all this so I welcome the help. I got this a few months back as a working project.

 

For context that photo was half way through taking apart the carb so ignore the missing carb components.

 

Not trying to beat up the car, but there are signs of cutting corners.

 

1) The mechanical fuel pump is still installed with the hose just looped around from the input to the output. They make a cheap block off plate to remove and cover the fuel pump hole in the head

 

2) The intake manifold has a home made block off plate smeared with orange RTV. They make proper machined block off plates. Also cheap.

 

3) Multiple random wires and butt splices.

 

4) Wrong kind of clamps on the fuel hoses and way too long as well. Should use proper 11-13mm fuel clamps.

 

5) Find out what kind of electronic fuel pump you have installed in the trunk. You need a 2-4psi low pressure pump. 

 

 

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Edited by Stevenc22
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1976 BMW 2002 Chamonix. My first love.

1972 BMW 2002tii Polaris. My new side piece.

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20 hours ago, 200two said:

I only noticed the flooded carb like in that video on two occasions.

That's two too many!

Consider fitting a fuel return valve that will keep fuel circulating back to the tank.

This keeps it from sizzling when left to sit on hot surfaces! 

Your carb reminded me of a crab pot at fisherman's wharf.

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32 minutes ago, Stevenc22 said:

 

Not trying to beat up the car, but there are signs of cutting corners.

 

1) The mechanical fuel pump is still installed with the hose just looped around from the input to the output. They make a cheap block off plate to remove and cover the fuel pump hole in the head

 

2) The intake manifold has a home made block off plate smeared with orange RTV. They make proper machined block off plates. Also cheap.

 

3) Multiple random wires and butt splices.

 

4) Wrong kind of clamps on the fuel hoses and way too long as well. Should use proper 11-13mm fuel clamps.

 

5) Find out what kind of electronic fuel pump you have installed in the trunk. You need a 2-4psi low pressure pump. 

 

 

image.thumb.png.0b9b4067ceee59c2670a3ade65cc6452.png

Totally make sense. The block off plates are arriving in the mail as we speak, noticed them as well just hadn’t gotten around to it yet. The wires are another mess I’m slowly making my way towards. Appreciate the feedback I’m not super experienced so using this forum as much as possible to redo things the proper way. Always wanted a 2002 so got this specific car because it didn’t have a spec of rust on it, knowing it had some of these cutting corner issues so slowly making my way down that list.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Following up on this. Finally had the chance to dig in. Thanks for all the comments.

 

Did a full rebuild of the carb, swapped out some jets. I’m not 100% happy with my jetting right now but will swap some out as I drive and make adjustments. My idle is 50. I tried 55s but it seems a little too rich so sticking with 50s. Mains are 140 and air correction is 170. This isn’t really a setup up I’ve seen on the forums and probably going to change this but didn’t have too many other jets laying around. It is running smooth but want to play around with it. Going to get a kit and try 145 185 and 135 185. I put smaller mains than what the previous owner had and can definitely feel the loss of power on acceleration. 
 

Turns out the float was either sunk or for a different carb (it was 25 or 26 grams I can’t remember but it looked brand new). Replaced that with a plastic float from an old 32/36 Weber and reset the new float, it’s now the correct spec 35mm - 51mm. No more signs of flooding.
 

I added a block plate in place of the mechanical pump - pretty straightforward.

 

Added a filter king in place of the old fuel regulator. Holding pressure around 2.7 psi and carb seems happy.

 

Turns out there are broken screws in the intake block plate screw holes so unfortunately had to leave that as is until I think of a better solution. 
 

Next tasks will be to work on jetting, clean up the engine bay a bit and replace hose clamps and eventually jump into wiring.

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11 hours ago, 200two said:

Turns out the float was either sunk

Good to hear you got it sorted. nice work.

Before doing a lot of jetting, make sure your timing is spot on. Makes a huge difference in the afr numbers.

The engine in my 74 is stock with exception of 9.5 cr Mahle's and the Weber 38. Stock air cleaner, etc. I recently got the O2 bung tig'ed in the downpipe for the afr gauge. Prior to mounting the sensor, performance was fine, pulled strong and idled well. Three tanks calc'd out at almost 20mpg. Averaged out some 0-60 pulls at 10.7 seconds.

The 38 came stock with 45 idle jets, 145 mains and 185 air correctors. The idle was perfect and smooth at 13.7-14 afr. At cruise however, it was rich at 12-13 running 60 at 3400 rpms. Dropping the mains to 140 brought the mix to high 13's, no difference in power felt in the butt. 

Before going to 135 mains I'm changing the air correctors to 190. A change up or down on the air correctors is like changing the main jet a third up or down. Small changes and long runs are key. Sneak up on your desired mix!

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Hacker of many things... master of none.

 

Gunther March 19, 1974. Hoffman Motors march 22 1974 NYC

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Nice work! +1 on dialing in timing before changing jets again.

Just swapped in a Cannon intake along with Weber 38/38 on stock jetting. Runs amazingly smooth (dodged a bullet, knock on wood) and quite a difference in throttle response from my tired 32/36. 
 

Keep up the good work. The small triumphs keep the motivation up. Second/third gear scratch is exciting too! 
 

🍻

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