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Reason for cold-start stalling?


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Hi all. Forum noob here... recently bought a '74 (my first '02!). It's a beautiful car, and I'm glad to have found a forum...

Anyways, my question:

The car is a tough start when "cold" (California nights, 50degF). It'll stall out unless i give it gas and hold it around 3K rpm for 30 seconds. Even then it wants to quit, but barely saves itself. Once the car is warm, it'll start right back up, no problem.

What are these symptoms of?

My gut says ignition system or timing... but I'm probably wrong. ;)

1974 - Weber 32/36

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I have the same frustration on my 76 on these rare cold California Mornings. Everyone just says "they all do that". Haven't got a good explanation yet. Just have to stay in the driveway til it warms up a little. Which is not really a bad thing. I have found that if I turn the key all the way off and then back on, it fires up again much faster. I am guessing it has something to do with all the smog crap and various temp sensors related to it.

Sorry I couldn't tell you anything definite, it is just an irritation in the AM. Never a problem once it is warmed up.

Welcome and Good Luck,

Think about coming up to the Bimmerfest in SB April 8th, got 19 2002's signed up already. http://www.bimmerfest.com/events/2006SB/2006sb.php

bimmerfest_2006_banner.gif

Steve

Steve

Sm2o.jpg

1974 Inka 1802 Touring, New Daily Driver

1976 Inka 2002 Original Owner (adopted by Scott B.)

My Roundies are bigger than yours

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OEM Solex carbs have crappy chokes, esp when they're 30+ years old. You'll be lucky to get it working properly as parts wear--especially the fast idle cam--and you can't get replacements (the fast idle cam keeps the engine idling at a higher rpm until it warms up).

Weber 2 bbls come in three flavors: manual choke, automatic water heated choke and electrically heated choke.

Tell us what carb/choke setup you have and we'll try diagnosing...

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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I think they need to get up to proper temperature to run and start right, and seem to be tempermental until it's warm. I have a weber carb with a manual choke which helps me regulate the air/fuel when I'm getting it warmed up. I'm using an electric fuel pump which might be an issue, and might switch back to the mech pump. And it seems like the better the carb is tuned the worse it starts too. I use starting fluid when it has issues, but if you all did that every chilly CA morning, the Ozone hole would be huge. EFI would be the real solution, or park on a hill and roll it off..J/K, although it works. Not sure what you should do, but the little 02 doen't like it when it's cold.

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adjust valves COLD first ( 0.006")

fresh - NEW gas in the tank

dwell /point gap / ignition timing with a timing light !!!

if the first 3 are not done - STOP NOW.

then adjust auto choke and cold high idle speed

with choke ON - adjust to 1500-1800 rpm after 20-30 sec. of first running

after 20 min driving time - adjust the idle mixture and idle speed.

IT IS NOT NORMAL TO HAVE uneven running, stalling, hesitations

ANYTIME .

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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rickers,

I've got a 32/36 with a water choke. I converted from a single barrel solex with a manual choke. I've got mine tweaked perfectly. Starts quickly, hot or cold. It's set pretty much to what CD is recommending, about 1500 on fast idle and about 1000 warm. It warms up in about five minutes, and the choke disengages. I'm in So Cal, Pasadena area. Lemme know if you need help, I'll be glad to help you get it right.

John Capoccia

'70 Verona

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