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Engine mount question


Guest Anonymous

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Yes, the bolt is meant to be at the bottom of the elongated hole, with the aligning knob in it too. Beaner7102

1971 - 2002 RHD VIN 1653940. Agave (stock with Pertronix & 32/36 Weber) - "Cactus"

1972 - 1602 RHD VIN 1554408. Fjord (with 2L motor, 5spd & LSD - Weber 40/40 to come) - "Bluey"

1984 - E30 318i VIN WBAAK320208722176 - stock daily driver

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wow, im really glad you posted this. As I was messing around tonight, I glanced down at my motor mount... and sure enough, it was the same as in the pic! oops, not sure how that happened.

I loosened up the outside nut, and put my weight on the engine some, and it popped down a little farther. I then had to loosen up the inside nut and rotate the mount around a little to get the knob to slide into the slot, put my weight on it some more, and it went down some. I couldn't get it all the way down, but within a couple millimeters.

It seemes to have reduced my low rpm engine wobble a tiny bit more. I've continuously been doing other things to get rid of my engine shakes, and have improved it quite a bit, and now its just down to the last little bit, which may or may be not possible to stop.

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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  • 5 years later...

This is an old thread, but came up first page on site search.

I have the same situation on the drivers side mount. The locating nub is only about half way into the slot.

Any additional tip other than the above on how to get it lower? Should I loosen the tranny mount also?

On the passenger side there is no gap between the mount and the stop. How do I adjust it for the 3mm?

Thanks!

Byas

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I had the same problem when I replaced mine in November. I initially thought i was due to new mounts and the configuration of them. Since rubber takes a "set" over time, I let it sit for a while and then released the nut and added weight to get it to slide down some. I never got it all the way though. I think its just the design of that mount, since it does not see a lot of compressive load (mostly shear), it does not want to compress and set down in there. Now that you reminded me, I may do that again tomorrow and see if I can get it down more.

1972 Bavaria (sold)

1985 535i (sold)

1986 535i (sold)

1996 328is daily driver

1973 2002

1968 Porsche 912

1973 Triumph TR6

2 - 2012 Hotwheels BMW 2002s (Inka and Chamonix) 0 miles! (both are #21 of 247!!)

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Loosen both right and left mounts on both sides of each mount. Using a block of wood and a floor jack take the weight off the mounts. Shake the engine side to side and let the jack down. Shake it again and the mount should have slipped into place. Tighten the nuts good after making the adjustment on the rght mount.

When you give it the gas the drivers side lifts. Need that mount tight or the engine will go huli on you.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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