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winstonj, I hope you don't take this the wrong way


norm

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I used the m10 rods because they were cheap (free) and after spending a ton at the machine shop having everything decked, balanced and ported, I ran out of money. You can spend up to $1,200 easily. I made up the difference of having shorter rods in the piston pin heights. Is it 7mm? I heard rumors that m10 rods were in ways better than s14 rods.

http://e30m3performance.com/installs/2.5_rebuild/rods/rods2.htm

Norm

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Tom, what are your plans for your motor. What parts do you have and what parts do you still need to buy? I remember something about a strocker motor. Maybe you're planning to build what I have done. I took an s14 block which gave 2.3 liters and then found an Evo s14 crankshaft to push the final cc to 2.5. I used M10 rods and had Ross manufacture 10.5:1 compression pistons. For the head, I used an E12 with a 304 cam, race prep rockers with double springs. The front cover was machined to fit an oil seal from a m10 pulley. There is one oil passage that needed to be blocked in the block itself. A M10 head bolts right on top of a s14 block. I had to change the oil pump around alittle to use the m10 oil pan. This motor is super strong and has been very reliable. Lots of good torque and revs up to 7k no problem. The carbs a dcoe 48.

Norm

Hey Norm,

I'm still in the never-never land of acquiring parts. I've got a few M10 longblocks that could be rebuilt, two S14 84mm cranks one EVO crank with a spun #3 rod journal, an S14 longblock with a cracked head and rod blown out the side of the block... many parts and little direction.

My current motor is tired. I have both the E30 and early E21 intake setup and I'd like to build a stock-ish M10 stroker for my DD car. I want to use the S14 84mm crank, stock S14 rods I just got from anthonyk (I'll save the Pauters for the next rebuild) and get a set of pistons made up with mild compression ~9.5 all with stock valves and a 292 cam. Nothing crazy, simple megasquirted EFI and I'm probably going to use the E30 intake because it's easier. So I have a lot of work ahead of me....

I want to build a second motor to put in my 71 Nevada car which needs a restoration and that I'd like to use an evo crank with stock M10 (or maybe S14) block and get up 2.2 or ~2.3L. Nothing really crazy but then again a 2.3L motor that can rev like yours would be plenty for the 2002. All of my projects going forward will all be Megasquirted so others can share the cars and not have to worry about carbs. I'll go ITB for my second build - use the first one to get some practice.

I'm still most interested in what you've done for a booster delete. Not to change the topic here but i'm not 100% sure it's going to be a good thing for a street car. I've ordered up a 17mm MC and will take a spare pedal box and try to fab something to bold direct on to the box down low. Hopefully there will be enough clearance with the steering arm, frame rail and whatever else is down there. I want to eliminate everything up high above the box so there will be more room to mount a new fuse panel either there or just keep it clean.

So that's the plan for now... and figure out how to attach a belt driven oil pump...

'79 & '80 Vespas, R75/6 + R90/6 (and a Triumph), '76 IH Scout II

E36 

'71 VIN: 2574356 - Nevada, Sunroof, RUST and a really nice '76

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I used the m10 rods because they were cheap (free) and after spending a ton at the machine shop having everything decked, balanced and ported, I ran out of money. You can spend up to $1,200 easily. I made up the difference of having shorter rods in the piston pin heights. Is it 7mm? I heard rumors that m10 rods were in ways better than s14 rods.

http://e30m3performance.com/installs/2.5_rebuild/rods/rods2.htm

Norm

Funny I've heard the opposite with the S14 crank. I've heard that the rod ratio of the S14 stock crank/rod combo is as close to ideal as it gets. Even anthonyk pointed out most recently that Ireland now reccomends the S14 length. Either way for a motor that doesn't spin over 8K it doesn't really matter - Right???

'79 & '80 Vespas, R75/6 + R90/6 (and a Triumph), '76 IH Scout II

E36 

'71 VIN: 2574356 - Nevada, Sunroof, RUST and a really nice '76

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I did that engine build four years ago and your so right about how styles, trends, and engineering can change. I have spent money over again or what I call twice, because just after I finish a task somebody comes out with something better. I am about to do the same if I go with Lee's big brakes. Two years ago I bought drilled, vented rotors and early six series calipers just around the same time when Lee came out with his brakes. Who knows, six months from now, there'd be the BBK #3.

Norm

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I did that engine build four years ago and your so right about how styles, trends, and engineering can change. I have spent money over again or what I call twice, because just after I finish a task somebody comes out with something better. I am about to do the same if I go with Lee's big brakes. Two years ago I bought drilled, vented rotors and early six series calipers just around the same time when Lee came out with his brakes. Who knows, six months from now, there'd be the BBK #3.

Norm

WHO CARES!!! DRIVE IT

'79 & '80 Vespas, R75/6 + R90/6 (and a Triumph), '76 IH Scout II

E36 

'71 VIN: 2574356 - Nevada, Sunroof, RUST and a really nice '76

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