Steering Column - Does it bolt to the pedal box?

[winstontj]

The steering column passes through the pedal box's upright bracket that holds the brake booster. Please take a look at the photo I just stole from Jerry... Also the photo from realoem. I'm wondering if #3 bolts only to the firewall or does it thru-bolt to the pedal box.

In my quest to perform a brake booster delete I want to make sure that when I ditch the upright bracket portion of the pedal box I'm not compromising anthing structural.

[Brandon]

The steering column bolts up in two places...under the dash (dash area under the instrument cluster..above your knees) and to the firewall. The column actually bolts to the brake booster bracket..the bracket has the bolts on it and they pass through the firewall and then through the lower steering column mount plate and are sucured with 10mm nuts.

[winstontj]

The column actually bolts to the brake booster bracket..the bracket has the bolts on it and they pass through the firewall and then through the lower steering column mount plate and are sucured with 10mm nuts.

So should I consider building a backing plate to either weld to or reinforce against the firewall? Seems like the firewall in that location is a little flimsey being that there's quite a bit of rust coming up from the floor around there. I don't need to be tinkering with the brakes and loose steering ability....

[Marty]

I would think a backing plate a couple of inches larger than the four holes to spread what ever load there is would be in order, although its hard to see how the steering shaft would cause a lot of force there. Maybe look at early 2002/1600s on real oem and see what they did there when they used the twin remote boosters.

[jerry]

if you are merely removing the brake booster only, then you'll have the brackets and bolts still.

if you are thinking of removing the bracket aft of the booster then you must consider that the brake linkage also pivots on that bracket too.

if you start monkeying with that bracket keep in mind the angles from the pedalbox and the alignment of the brake linkage.

just words to ponder...

[gracer]

On my race car, I just used bolts to replace the bracket studs. You will remove a ton of weight by removing the bracket and booster. You will want to replace you stock M/C with a different size depending on what you use for calipers. G

[winstontj]

On my race car, I just used bolts to replace the bracket studs. You will remove a ton of weight by removing the bracket and booster. You will want to replace you stock M/C with a different size depending on what you use for calipers. G

BINGO!!!! What are you running for calipers? More importantly what are you running for a MC? Where did you put it? I've got Volvo fronts and currently have 250mm rear drums but will be upgrading to discs shortly.

I want to find a slightly smaller (maybe 17 or 18mm bore) MC that has dual lines... any thoughts?

Do you think the stock 20mm bore will be too stiff?

[gracer]

I am running a set up using the early pedal box. I had to fab a new plate to mount the clutch MC along side Two Tilton MC'S. I had to shave the Tilton MC'S to get them in the pedal box area. Because of the steering arm, using a stock MC is out. I am using the stock TII calipers in front and Outlaw 1000 calipers in the rear. With this setup Tilton recommends a .700 for the front and a 15/16" for the rear. G