Heater Valve rebuild - screws are stuck

[Beaner7102]

See site below, they have valves for $72.88, it says for a 1602 but has the same part number as a 2002. Beaner7102

http://www.carpartsteam.com/BM_1602_Climate+Control_Heater+Valve_019.html

[Mike Self]

early and late. Make sure you get the correct one for your car, as the hose nipples are different size so they don't interchange. Early ones have smaller nipples and are all brass; later ones have a plastic inner valve and have larger nipples--and better water flow. They are the ones with the square plastic shaft that holds the control lever (and gets rounded off)

cheers

mike

[jc4me2]

Just what do you do once you've gotten the the brass cover off in order to make it operate properly? How do I know if I need a new one?

Thanks, Jordan

[Half Moon tii]

I could not get the screws out of my heater valve even after using penetrating oil and heat.  I finally resorted to a drill.  Unfortunately, I made an error and slight damaged the cover.  As shown in the photograph, I cut slightly into the groove that accepts the gasket.  Do you think this is an issue for sealing?  I will need to cut new thread as well, not really sure how to approach that either.

 

[tech71]

Yea that will be a problem, I myself would not use that now. The o ring will just squish out. Sorry.

Edited March 29, 2020 by tech71

[PaulTWinterton]

How about some JBWeld.  I'd apply a small dollop and sculpt it to recreate the groove and edge of the hole. 

 

Pressure test to confirm that it worked. 

 

Worth a try considering the value of the all-brass valve.  

 

Another remedy that I don't have enough experience with is brazing.  The same procedure but with real metal.  More input required.   

 

Good luck.

 

 

Edited March 29, 2020 by PaulTWinterton

[Shawn Piper]

I would buy another one to rebuild. I wouldnt try to use or repair that damage.  If it fails, it will be a huge pain to fix again.  

[E60coyote]

I second the easy outs. Worked like a charm.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Damaged-Screw-Remover-Extractor-EasyOut/dp/B07HGSPQDV/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=Easy+out&qid=1585691093&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFQSFEzNk5XVlU3VVImZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxNjE3ODcyTjBRMDUzUFZVNkQ0JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MTI0MDMyNDBOUjMxNE5SQ08yJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

[Dudeland]

Sorry for the late reply.  An ultrasonic cleaner with a little bit of WD 40 in it would get them loose. 

 

 

[Half Moon tii]

I tried wd40 for three days, heat, and an impact screwdriver.  Once I drilled it, I can see the threads were completely rusted and bound to the brass.

 

Does anyone no someone that could fill the holes and lip by brazing?  

[tech71]

You mean "fill the holes and lip by brazing?  Then recut the groove, extract the broken off screws and rethread if possible?"

Start looking for a used one, Its cheaper.?

Edited April 1, 2020 by tech71

[jimk]

9 hours ago, Half Moon tii said:

Once I drilled it, I can see the threads were completely rusted and bound to the brass.

The screws on mine were SS and I can vouch for it was the first time apart since new.

[kbmb02]

On 3/6/2007 at 7:31 PM, jc4me2 said:

Just what do you do once you've gotten the the brass cover off in order to make it operate properly? How do I know if I need a new one?

Thanks, Jordan

 

The later units come in two flavors; some with all brass guts, some with plastic (images below are plastic, obviously). On this one, both plastic pieces were intact; if you find the same, then replace the two o-rings and reassemble. -KB