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Parking Brake (or lack thereof)


gusopenshaw

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This isn't so much a 02-specific question as a parking-brake one, but as I have an 02 (1975) here it is--and I'd appreciate the help: The brake will no longer hold the car from rolling backward down the forty-degree hill where I need to park it. For the last couple months, I'd had to use every ounce of strength to pull it up to that last click that would set it. Now: nada. With the rubber housing off, the mechanism looks completely normal, at least to me. I'd be grateful for any advice or appropriate links.

'75, malaga

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you may need to work on your rear brakes

i installed new shoes, and wheel cylinders in my car after having the same problem (and no working parking brake to use...)

has worked without a hitch

only problem now is the e-brake handle itself seating/locking properly. right now i have to pull the handle to the side while pulling up to get it to lock. mehh..

i'd like to replace it altogether with a better system, and i recall hearing about installing hand brakes from other cars, but not much more than that

1969 2002 Automatic "Pumpkin"

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Sounds like your rear brakes need adjustment.

Here's my take on the whole deal:

http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/rearbrakes.html

regards,

Zenon

Zenon's site is where I learned to adjust the rear brakes. IMO the secret is PB Blaster and TONS of HEAT. Use vice grips on the brake side so you dont strip the adjusters. If they do not move easily just use heat. Heat PB Blast, three or four times. Wheel bearing grease will absorb right into the warm joint once it's loose. the trick is to keep them from rusting up again so you can adjust them twice a year (depending on how much you drive.

'79 & '80 Vespas, R75/6 + R90/6 (and a Triumph), '76 IH Scout II

E36 

'71 VIN: 2574356 - Nevada, Sunroof, RUST and a really nice '76

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Well, at 40 degrees, you're likely to have problems with the tires sliding, too...

The 2002 setup really wants you to have good drums and linings-

if some doofus put the drums on a lathe, you'll be hard- pressed to get

rear brakes or a parking brake.

New drums and shoes will probably fix you right up.

Otherwise, stop trying to park on ski slopes!

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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1. Make sure your rear brakes are properly adjusted...several folks posted here how to do that; also check archives. And while you're at it, make sure both e-brake cables are intact--they usually break back at the brake shoe end.

2. After the brake shoes are properly adjusted, run up the e-brake cable adjusters--the handle should lock up on the 4th or 5th click. If you run the adjusters all the way up and the e-brake still won't hold, try this.

3. Go to hardware store, buy a couple of short pieces (an inch or so) of 1/4" I.D. galvanized plumbing pipe and some proper sized washers. Then remove the adjuster nuts, insert the pieces of pipe (as spacers) with washers on each side of the pipe and then tighten the adjuster nuts. Over the years, those steel cables will stretch over an inch--I compared a broken one that I removed with a new one...

Hope that cures your problem...

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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Both Zenon and mike have the info (as usual).

I found the easiest way to adjust the cables was to have the rear of the car up on jack stands or on a lift if you are so lucky. One person outside and gets to try and turn each of the rear wheels. (if this is the helper person, then make sure to give them some gloves to keep their hands clean) You would then sit inside and pull up on the lever while Helper trys to turn the wheel. After you adjust the cables, release the brake and then Helper trys to turn the wheels again.

Beats the heck out of climbing in and out of the car.

Steve J

72 tii / 83 320is / 88 M3 / 08 MCS R55 / 12 MC R56

& too many bikes

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In addition to all the excellent tips, check the bracket that holds the handle to the tunnel. They will fatigue and break. If that happens, all the adjustment in the world won't help. My 76 broke there, and now I have to put it in gear (good for level ground) or throw a old starter behind the rear wheel. (good for slight grades, but very inconvenient.)

Steve

Sm2o.jpg

1974 Inka 1802 Touring, New Daily Driver

1976 Inka 2002 Original Owner (adopted by Scott B.)

My Roundies are bigger than yours

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The bracelet looks like it was in a fight. May be the problem. Is it possible to replace this, or build a new one, or what?

Has it separated from the tunnel?? Does it flop around side to side?? I think that it is a pretty simple welding job if it is broken.

Steve

Sm2o.jpg

1974 Inka 1802 Touring, New Daily Driver

1976 Inka 2002 Original Owner (adopted by Scott B.)

My Roundies are bigger than yours

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Thanks. I think I may have misunderstood what you meant by the bracelet. The problem seems to be the sheet of metal from which the handbrake itself sticks out. It has a tear almost all the way across (left to right), at the base of the brake. Every time I pull the brake, it rips a bit further. It's almost fully severed. So I guess it is a relatively simple welding job. My next step is just to find someone to weld it. Please let me know if you have any thoughts.

'75, malaga

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  • 5 years later...
In addition to all the excellent tips, check the bracket that holds the handle to the tunnel. They will fatigue and break. If that happens, all the adjustment in the world won't help. My 76 broke there, and now I have to put it in gear (good for level ground) or throw a old starter behind the rear wheel. (good for slight grades, but very inconvenient.)

No handbrake and Chocking the rear wheels . . . what a sight. The trick is to be able to jump out of the car quickly(don't fall under the door) (the car will now start rolling if the tranny doesn't hold it), run to the back wheel and throw the chock under it before the car is going fast enough to just run over the chock. On a steep incline this is a riot. I was on a date, parked right in front of a packed bar, the gearbox wouldn't hold it, so I tried the jump out and chock it approach. The car kept jumping over the chock, and each time I had to quickly jump back in the car to stop it. Then I had to start it to pull it back up into the space and do it all over again. I did this three times before my date got so embarrassed that she got out and helped me. I swear it looked like an old Harold Lloyd movie.

"And The Dude abides"

74 2002 Inka (The Dude)

68 Zundapp ISDT Racer (original 350 miles)

87 BMW 735i (frozen motor)

79 VW Westphalia (for sale)

55 AJS 500cc Enduro Non-running Ekins bike

72 Yamaha XS2 (in many boxes)

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