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Looking for 02 help..this friday/Saturday So.Cal..we failed.


sheggaw

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I have tried to and failed, another person tried and failed...we need some serous 02er to help out on this one. The start of the problem was a bad idle. we tuned it up, changed carb to a 32/36, a perfect working carb. The only thing we did not change were the distributor & coil. It started, but then it was running rough, very rough in the lower RPM, drove fine above 3K RPM. Fresh 91 octane Gas, We thought it was the timing and screwed around it and were never able to start it up. We also tried adjusting the valve and that did not go well. So now, we are willing to buy beer, chicken and mojo potatoes at Shakys for people who can help us get this thing back on the road again. Can a few of you sacrifice 1-2 hours friday or saturday?

We will have to start from scratch. Timing, Valve adjustment etc is out of wack! We have tools and beer, and will help during the work. Please let me know. Car is in Hacienda Heights/Industry area, right by 60/605 area

Thanks....

THOU SHALT DRIVE AN 02

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I am far from an experienced mechanic...but my 76 with the 32/36 would act that way when one of the fuses was not connected or blown. It would barely Idle or not at all, had to keep revving it up. Check to see if all your gauges (gas & temp) are working. They are on the same fuse that gave me the problems. I don't have the car here so I can't give you the fuse #.

I think it affects the Idle solenoid which prevents "run-on" when you shut it off. If there is no power to the solenoid, it cuts off the fuel to the idle circuit. Check to see if that is working. Sometimes the wire comes off or doesn't connect properly.

Good luck,

Steve

Sm2o.jpg

1974 Inka 1802 Touring, New Daily Driver

1976 Inka 2002 Original Owner (adopted by Scott B.)

My Roundies are bigger than yours

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I may be able to help. I live in Sierra Madre and often travel up and down the 605 to visit my Mom. I know how to adjust the valves, timing, and adjust a Weber 32/36. But if the problem is something else, I may be of little use.

Did you have the idle problems before you installed the carb? Can you tell me what size primary idle jet you have installed?

John Capoccia

Sierra Madre, CA

 

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I think it affects the Idle solenoid which prevents "run-on" when you shut it off. If there is no power to the solenoid, it cuts off the fuel to the idle circuit.

YES STEVE....!!!! Which also a/effects (couldn't remember which) IDLE. If you do not have proper power to the idle solenoid your car will not idle as well as shut off properly. The idle jets in a 32/36 are most commonly run with a lead from the coil or #12 fuse which is hot in start & run. If you don't have power at idle you will never get a proper running motor - regardless of plugs, points, timing....

Fuel, Air & Spark - Check the fuel & air because spark is nothing without them. Idle Solenoid will be a little tiny male prong on the side of the carb. Jump it with a 12+ lead and listen for a relay-type click.

'79 & '80 Vespas, R75/6 + R90/6 (and a Triumph), '76 IH Scout II

E36 

'71 VIN: 2574356 - Nevada, Sunroof, RUST and a really nice '76

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I think it affects the Idle solenoid which prevents "run-on" when you shut it off. If there is no power to the solenoid, it cuts off the fuel to the idle circuit.

YES STEVE....!!!! Which also a/effects (couldn't remember which) IDLE. If you do not have proper power to the idle solenoid your car will not idle as well as shut off properly. The idle jets in a 32/36 are most commonly run with a lead from the coil or #12 fuse which is hot in start & run. If you don't have power at idle you will never get a proper running motor - regardless of plugs, points, timing....

Fuel, Air & Spark - Check the fuel & air because spark is nothing without them. Idle Solenoid will be a little tiny male prong on the side of the carb. Jump it with a 12+ lead and listen for a relay-type click.

Thanks for the confirmation..I don't know "affect"/"effect" either. One or the other.

I hope the problem is that simple.

Good luck, Guys.

Steve

Sm2o.jpg

1974 Inka 1802 Touring, New Daily Driver

1976 Inka 2002 Original Owner (adopted by Scott B.)

My Roundies are bigger than yours

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1. Make sure the vacuum advance unit is working. Disconnect hose from carb, pop the dizzy cap and suck on the hose. You should see the point plate move. If it doesn't move, and there's no resistance when you suck, then the vac advance diaphragm is shot. Replace.

2. If you do feel resistance when you suck and the point plate doesn't move, replace the point plate. Inexpensive, readily available. And they do wear out. Usual symptoms of a worn/stuck point plate is a flickering tach...

hope that's all it is...

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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