rear axel nut

[us4736]

anybody know a good trick to get these off ??? i tried impact gun pen oil ,now i have it on the floor with a bar between the studs and heat with a with a BFin breaker bar

[Lee]

That nut is torqued to about 280ft.lbs and you need a long handle (about at least 4 feet) to "easily" remove it. But that is if no rust has settled in.

When you reinstall the nut, make sure it is torqued to 280ft.lbs or the hub will start drumming, getting loose, destroying the spline and finally will snap the stub axle. Don't ask how I know...

[winstontj]

anybody know a good trick to get these off ??? i tried impact gun pen oil ,now i have it on the floor with a bar between the studs and heat with a with a BFin breaker bar

Home Depot sells a section of 48" black pipe for about $5. Go get one... and while you are at it go buy yourself a GM 36mm 3/4" drive axal socket found at any of the McParts stores.... it'll run you a whopping $12... Socket $12, big ass bar $5.... then grab yourself a 3/4" breaker bar which isn't so cheap.

I broke 3 craftsman (some say their quality went downhill) 1/2" breaker bars on those when I did my 250mm rear brake upgrade.

Read RIMSPOKE's tools post in the off topic.. I used that big-ass screwdriver wedged between two studs and supported by a jackstand so the hub wouldn't spin. Jackstand under the way outer end of the trailing arm and it came off super easy. Good luck!!!

[Lee]

With the trailing arm out of the car, I foresee a lot of fun trying to apply torque on that nut while 4 friends are standing on the trailing arm to keep it from moving and another few will try to keet the hub from spinning... Bring beer and shoot a video. I wish I were there to see the fun...

BTW I can see you are in a shop. It wouild be a great idea to use a torch and heat up that nut until it becomes red. While it is still glowing, try to undo that nut. And don't even think keeping it. It goes to garbage.

[bimmerboy]

so i just brought it down to hte corner repair shop and 5 bucks a side later...

[c.d.iesel]

...PUT THE DRUM, AND WHEEL BACK ON,

LOWER THE CAR TO THE GROUND,

body in drivers seat with foot brake on hard, YOU work breaker bar

loosen nut "counter clockwise!" LEFTY LOOSEY .

REVERSE TO FINAL TORQUE -

(angle torque not required)

[jerry]

i use a tool that i bought years ago when i was driving a 68 VW Bug. it's a 36mm wrench-type socket gizmo that you attach to a breaker bar and you can use a hammer to strike it to help loosen the nut. i usually use a prybar inserted between the studs to keep wheel from rotating and an extension pipe on the breaker bar and step on the bar as i strike the socket gizmo.

a propane torch is a good idea too. i've only done this with the trailing arms removed from the car.

[boxy02]

torch x2 ......and 36mm VW axle nut tool x2, too.....8^) I was able to get mine off with the subframe out of the car....it was difficult but not impossible (and they were pretty rusted on there).

[us4736]

Lee thanks for the help .i have all those tools i just did'nt want to brake something . i got some help and i heated it up with the torch then with the braker bar and four foot pipe it moved .i also got the hubs off so i can machine about 8mm to get them to inside the VW rotor .this rotor in the pic is for mock up only i'am going to use VW GLI 256x20mm vented and cross drilled rotors .not sure what caliper yet