What can I even do about this ball joint?

[blue7500]

Seems to me there's no discernable nut even there. I was thinking pull the steering arm off and throw the whole thing into the sandblaster, but does anyone have a better idea/experience with this problem?

[jerry]

sandblaster is an excellent idea if you have access to one. i've used a cold chisel to coax those heavily rusted nuts off. just beat it in the direction that would normally unscrew it. you'll have to pioneer a little wedge in the nut in one or two places.

after you sandblast it you may find that what's left of the nut is easily removed this way. use oil and heat too.

paint that inner chamber before reassembly and spray some rust proofer on the nut before bolting to the strut. i've used permatex to seal it up as well, for the next guy.

[Zenon]

That's a perfect candidate for electrolytic rust removal.

http://www.bhi.co.uk/hints/rust.htm

http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html

regards,

Zenon

[wegweiser]

Very common problem - and Jerry is spot on here. Heat and chisel in the direction of "loosening". You'll end up splitting it in half before it actually "turns" though. Resist the urge to dremel or grind it too aggressively- as you risk damage to the taper and contact surface under the nut. Even after the nut is removed - I often have to use a "pickle fork" and additional heat to pluck the remains from the steering arm.

I pack the cavity with Moly grease after painting thoroughly, upon assembly. Also - read up on safety wire and get fresh drilled bolts ($7 ea+). One of the bolt holes goes all the way through the strut base - so dab some paint in the hole, to prevent rust later on, after it's all assembled.

MAP gas is wayyyyy better than propane - and just as easy to find / use.

get a good, solidly mounted bench vise, too!

HTH

Paul

[Mike Self]

fully to cut one side off the nut far enough so I could split it the rest of the way with a small cold chisel. Did it without damaging the steering arm too.

The ball joint on one side popped right out with a couple of taps; the other side took heat and beating; neither had rust in the tapers; go figure...

Good luck, be patient and careful and it'll come out without damaging anything important.

mike

[scottt]

All good suggestions, I used a smaller inch sized impact socket and drove it over what remained of the nut with a bfh. An impact wrench took it right off. I too, filled the cavity with grease after installing the new joint.

Not that I'll be around in 35 years when it needs to be redone ...

Oh, I too love MAPP

[c.d.iesel]

...REPLACE IT !

IT'S EXPIRED!

IT'S AVAILABLE!

YER STEERING WILL FAIL!

PLEASE

BMW Dealer List $308 clams ( - ) your BMWCCA Club discount

[blue7500]

Got it under control. Took a sand blaster, drill press, air chisel, MIG welder and a lot of time/patience. Ended up hacking part of the old ball joint off, welding a rod coupling to what was left of it, and hitting it with an impact gun. Came out on the first try. c . d. iesel, I hope you only meant the ball joint and not the whole steering arm?