Rear bushings: what is the most efficient way to replace?

[M]

Any tricks for the backyard mechanic. How should I approach the job of replacing all the rear bushings on my 76 02? Do I need to disconnect everything? Any advice and/or wise council would be appreciated.

Want to replace the frame mounts, all control arm bushings, the differential mounts (sway bar bushings seem self explanatory).

I will be working alone (unless I coax my brother into coming over for some beers!?).

I have 2 3-ton jack stands and a good floor jack.

I have a normal array of typical spanners and sockets etc.

I have tender hands still recovering from my foray into the pedal box last weekend.

Steven

[jerry]

check out a couple threads on the "FAQ Construction Zone" area. there's a lot of helpful info there. it's becoming a convenient repository of the collective knowlege of the members.

[Driggers]

Ok, so I am kinda new but I can get to the faq but what is the construction zone?

[M]

The construction zone is one of the forums. Hit the forum link page and look at the options. I foud all the basic info there however, there is not a compleet explination of the whole project in one place.

[DanOKC]

My vote is for dawn dish soap, home made tool to remove & install them, & air compressor & impact wrench, once you do one by hand, try the impact wrench, just bump it a little at a time, it goes much faster. I use 3/8" or 1/2" bolts instead of all thread, they are tougher to break or chew up threads on, IMO. I used maybe one or two big 1/2" drive sockets to make my tool with some big flat washers, similar to the tool Bill Williams has pics of in faq construction zone. Oh yea, Also I put a bowl in the sink or tub, run hot water & soak those bushings for 10 to 20 min to make em a little softer. Also there are little arrows on the bushings, make sure they all point to the front of the car, Someone correct me if I'm wrong on that point. I always forget that detail til I put the first one in

[BillWilliams]

I do not recall placing any material in the Construction Zone so I looked and did not see anything. I even went to my restoration Blogs and did not see the pictures I thought I had posted.

Can you point me to what you saw? Maybe I can put something together for the constuction zone if needed.

Thanks

[M]

I think it would be a sought after tutorial. Apparently there is more to the rear than meets the eye. Nothing like starting on a 3 hour job only to find you have spent 8 hours working, its 2:30AM, and you just realized you have been approaching it the wrong way the whole time.

As always, advice form the experienced 02ers is much appreciated.

Steven

[BillWilliams]

In brief, dropping the rear subframe is the easiest and best way to go.

May sound ominous at first, but once you get it on the ground and out from under the car, you are free to work on it without beating yourself up.

Are there specifics I can help with? I did post some pictures in the construction zone under a post "under construction" but I have not put any works with it.

Email me if you get in trouble and we can talk by phone.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,289061/

[M]

Well Bill, the pictures are helpful, that is an attractive piece of work! Did you powder coat the components? I can hardly wait until there is text to go with it.

It looks like you disconnect the break lines (2), the emergency break lines (1 or 2), the frame mounts (2), the differential mounts (2), and the shock absorbers (2). That’s like 9 or 10 bolts! Do you need to raise the car really high of the ground? What do you do with the springs? Any safety issues or advice on what lift points work best? I think I am willing to try.

[BillWilliams]

other than the usual place on the subframe. I run a 4x4 across the car in front of the support bars (these are the bars that connect the subframe to the body) and set that 4x4 on jack stands.

I think you see all that needs to be disconnected and you will also need to unbolt the support bars too and thee driveshaft. You may find disconnecting the shocks easier from the trunk. On most shocks there is a allen socket in the top of the shock, you can place a box end wrench around the nut on the top of the shock, hold the shock securely with the allen wrench and loosen the 17mm (guessing) nut on top of the shock, that is usually a nyloc nut.

The spring will just fall out as you lower the suspension.

Lowering the suspension justs involves placing a floor jack under the differential and lowering it slowly while balancing everything.

Disconnect the driveshaft with a friend. Engage the parking brake, break loose one of the nuts on the driveshaft at the differential. Have your friend release the brake, rotate the shaft, engage the brake, break loose the next nut, so on and so on. By the way, after you have done this once, you will find a way to put a set of flex head gear wrenches in your tool box. Working these nuts is worth the price of these wrenches.

Going at it this way allows you to refresh the brake fluid and the flexible brake lines. As a note, install the end of the flex line that attaches to the bottom of the car first, even before you lift the subframe is placed. For some reason BMW placed that connection just above the rear subframe and it is difficult to get to once the subframe is in place. Inside the subframe is a captive nut like thing that holds the hex head thing on the flexible brake line.

Once you have this done, I may have the words written or refer to the shop manual if you have one, it is better than my words.

Yes the subframe is powder coated an olive black.