engine and drivetrain List of bolts to check for tightness....

[KFunk]

Maybe this list exists already, but if not, we can put one together.

I just want to know which nuts/bolts are prone to wiggling loose, what happens when they do get loose, etc. I've had a few incidents already, which I'd like to avoid.

I'll start with mine:

--caliper bolts which hold caliper in place: need to loc-tited, and torqued to proper specs. I lost one before. First sign was a slight thump when applying brakes. Then during an autocross run, hitting the brakes resulted in loud grinding noises and extremely hard braking, as the caliper swung back and hit the wheel.

--shifter platform to tranny bolts: horizontal allen head bolts. Real pain to access with allen bit and long extension. When loose, shifter starts getting sloppy and difficult to get into second gear. Then a pop as bolt flies out and rattles around, followed by extremely loose shifter. Shifter platform can swing freely left to right, but its still possible to shift.

--Left side engine mount nut, by steering box: My latest discovery, and ruined day at autocross. Car just felt really sloppy and bouncy in corners. Hood appeared to shake when starting car. Eventually, throttle began sticking wide open for a few seconds after letting off the gas, and pants become soiled. Apparently, engine jumped high enough to smash air filter on hood, and throttle rod was pulled downward with respect to the carb.

Thats all I can think of for now. I really can't have any more episodes like this at my next autocross, so please let me know all bolts I should check over the coming weekend.

Thanks!

Kevin

[Jim_75Sahara]

I suggest blaming it all on the p.o. It feels better when I have a problem w/mine!

[BLUNT]

HALFSHAFT BOLTS

[a54atii]

While you're under the car:

-- driveshaft & rear axle bolts: check the tranny/driveshaft bolts, the CSB, driveshaft/diff bolts, and all the halfshaft bolts. I have some clutch take-up shudder in my '73 that I think is related to something loose under there. Maybe I'll have more to add once I find the offending part.

-- check front subframe for cracks: this has been covered before, but be sure to check for cracks in the front subframe and not assume that its just a loose mount.

-- wheel lugnuts: it seems almost silly to mention these, but of course it isn't...

And another one that can be easy to forget:

-- distributor locking bolt/nut: on at least one occasion, I found that I forgot to tighten up the distributor after I'd been messing around with the timing. It'll really piss you off if you get the timing just right and then it starts to run like crap because your forgot.

And then, of course, there are the last two categories:

-- any bolt you've touched in the last 6 months

-- any bolt you've never touched while you've owned the car

Good luck and don't forget to tighten that nut behind the wheel!

Karl

[InkaSteve]

HALFSHAFT BOLTS

Ditto on those...very exciting trying to drive when those let go..unless you have LSD you won't go anywhere. Fortunately I could coast to my mechanics shop. Sorta like a Space Shuttle landing...only one run at it.

Double check the Ball Joints when you are under the car. You don't want this to happen, believe me..

[c.d.iesel]

the answer is EVERY NUT AND BOLT, HOSE CLAMP, ELECTRICAL CONNECTION .

Once you have touched, tightened, treated, cleaned, replaced

every bit of hardware, and plumbing, and electrical componentens on your car -

THEN you might be safe to go - on a trip or on the track.

If you haven't done this to a 30+ year old car with only lord knows

what molestations have gone on during all those decades of neglect,

abuse, and imature behavior - then your just a moving time

bomb waiting for parts to shed themselves as you roll merrily down the lane.

Do it now in the bright dry warmth of your garage - or do it on the side of the road

in East Nowhere so you to can post grand photos here of your ball joint converted to a ear-ring.

Make the Ladies happy and take better care of their car !

at

[KFunk]

Thanks, and keep 'em comin! There's surely more.

I've begun the process yesterday, and I have Monday off for a 3-day weekend. I've gotta get things locked and loaded to handle my new V710 R-tires for the Governer's Cup autocross. I'm changing lots of fluids, tweaking and tuning.

To add to the list-

brass sleeve at the top of strut housings for Bilsteins- One was a bit loose, despite being held with loc-tite and beat in there long ago.

sway bar end links- seem to loosen up over time, even with nylock nuts.

Actually for loose bolts/nuts, the factory installed ones seem to stay safe and secure, It's the ones I've replaced that always want to loosen up. I use a torque wrench to the right specs, but apparently its not enough. Gotta loc-tite and check often. Would probably be best to just buy new fasteners, but that'd take me a lot of time to pick out everything I need.

My car is unrestored, and gets beaten mercilessly, so your mileage may vary.

The new 215-50-13 R-tires are gonna be putting way more force thru that chassis than its ever had, so I'm checking everything.

Yesterday I adjusted the valves, flushed the engine and changed oil, blew seafoam thru the manifold, fixed speedometer (just an annoyance), and checked torque on most front suspension parts. Today its time to flush brakes, adjust brakes, check rear suspension, tune carb/timing, etc.