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75 Stealth stereo install.


2002Targa

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Greets.

Since I'm kind of at a standstill with my MS project (still need it as my DD) I thought I'd finally install some of the stereo that I've had kicking around for a couple of years. I've been driving it tuneless since I bought it. It came with an old supertuner and the 4" AudioVox speakers that you'll see later.

It had very poorly cut holes for the shit speakers and I had a nice pair of Polk 6x9's for a while, so I figured it was time to install them.

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Life's a garden baby, dig it.

My web album

75 Fjord

73 RHD Targa

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Nice! - I really like your kick panel mount. Any problems fitting the speaker magnet in there?

I dont know if you've checked out my project blog but i did a similar thing excpet i used the lower hole and widened it to accommodate the magnet. My housing didnt look as prof. as yours either but its covered by carpet anyway.

Anyway, looks great! Keep up the good work!

Tom

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72tii - Whitey

74 - Blacky

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Thanks Tom,

honestly I wish I would have remembered how you did yours, that would have been MUCH easier. I've been looking at everything I could find of people doing front speaker mounts. I'm "fairly" confident that I won't have to cut any metal, but I might have to give it a little "guidance" with a BFH when done.

Your car looks really nice, I still regret giving my Schwartz 76 away last year, I just didn't have the time, space or money to keep it around. Your carpet looks exactly the same is what was in this car. I took mine and threw it in a garbage can full of hot water and about 6 bottles of black Rit dye. Came out pretty decent.

While the clay is still drying today, I'm off to Pick N Pull today to search out some 6" speaker grills and the top of an E30 gas tank (that's whole different project tho)

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Life's a garden baby, dig it.

My web album

75 Fjord

73 RHD Targa

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I got the drivers mold pretty much made up. The hood lever needed a little bending to clear the mount, now I just have to wait for the clay to dry and finish cracking so I can start laying the glass around it.

Looking back, I wish I had used better clay and molded both sides at the same time so they would be symmetrical. They're close, but just a bit off. I don't think you'll be able to tell when they're covered though.

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Life's a garden baby, dig it.

My web album

75 Fjord

73 RHD Targa

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The clay finally dried enough to start laying the glass. This is the first layer. I didn't use enough release agent on the molds and had to chisel the clay out of the glass. It's pretty lumpy and choppy, but being my first time doing any kind of fabricating I think they came out pretty well.

The wood ring is 1/4" plywood to give the speaker screws something to grab. We have a downdraft composite table at work, I'm going to try to go in tonight and get some sanding done. I was even thinking about getting some bondo to smooth things out a little bit. It's going to be covered with nylon so I don't know if that would be needed. Once I rough up the inside, I'll lay a couple more layers of glass to strengthen it up a little bit.

I can say that fiberglass is pretty cool. I wish I tried something like this a long time ago. And it smells good too.

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Life's a garden baby, dig it.

My web album

75 Fjord

73 RHD Targa

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It's pretty lumpy and choppy . . . I was even thinking about getting some bondo to smooth things out a little bit. It's going to be covered with nylon so I don't know if that would be needed. Once I rough up the inside, I'll lay a couple more layers of glass to strengthen it up a little bit.

May I offer up a suggestion? You can reduce the lumpiness by hitting the epoxy coat with 24-to-60-grit sandpaper right as the epoxy starts to set, but before it gets hard. That is, monitor the epoxy as it dries. When it turns tacky, you're just about ready to hit it with sandpaper. When you can feel that it is gummy, but no longer sticks to your finger or pulls away, start shaping with the 24-grit, then move up to the 60 grit.

Let that set, and then apply a coat of short-strand fiberglass bondo. Again, wait until it starts to "kick" (i.e., get gummy). It's easy to shape with 24-grit at that point. Move on up throught the grits; I usually go 24, 60, 100, 150, 220, 400, and then 600 wet-sand.

You don't need to cover it with anything at that point if you go with some good build primer, like K-38. That stuff is easy to sand -- and if you make a mistake, just add more bondo or epoxy (thinned with Acetone) and keep sanding and shaping. Finally, after you've laid down the last coat of primer and wet-sanded to 600, shoot it with your favorite color (or, because it's an 02, paint it black).

If my write-up is less than clear, just google for some surfboard sites. Most of them use some form of gel-coat, but for automotive, the K-38 plus a nice coat of color will wind up looking great. And, the painted kicks will hold up better against wear and tear, than covered kicks.

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I want to do the samekinda thing.

Would your friend want to make anymore Kick molds I would love to get a pair!!!How much? Also I grew up in Va beach. Went to football camp at Elon, when I was a kid. Wouldent happen to know Mike Robinson would ya? We built surfboards togeather at WRV. I still build boards here in Cali.

He Restored a 2002, got in to Bimmers and now has his oun Bimmer shop in Chesapeak. He is on the FAQ.

Thanks , Chris

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Hi Culpy,

as far as the molds, the release agent that I used on them didn't release enough and I had to dig the clay out with a screwdriver, so this is turning out to be a one time run. I think that next time i try something like this I'll use 2 part poly expanding foam.

What is your friends shop in Chesapeake?? I go up there all the time, but never see any 2002s.

TK

Life's a garden baby, dig it.

My web album

75 Fjord

73 RHD Targa

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