REAR DRUM BRAKE ADJUSTMENT

[phano]

Update: I got the drum on by turning the adjustment nuts. I didn't know what those were an hour ago. I also opened the brake bleeder screw to make sure there wasn't excess pressure on the shoes. Now I'm on the process of adjusting the rear brakes as per Haynes manual. I also bled the brake that I'm working on but I didn't see any air bubbles come down the tube. Is that normal or expected?

[zinz]

I've found that even though the E-brake cables may be "loose", you really need to take a screwdriver and manipulate the emergency brake lever on the one shoe to move the shoes to their most inward position.  Then center the cylinder by pushing on the tops of either shoe.  Also insure that the adjusters are completely disengaged.  If, after all that, you might need to sand a little bit off the tops of the friction surfaces.  

 

The biggest thing is that E-brake lever on the one shoe...

 

Good luck, it's easy...

 

Ed Z

[Simeon]

Have you loosened the adjusters?

[phano]

Thanks for the help everyone! I got the drum to slide on easily and adjusted the rear brakes.

Unfortunately, swapping the emergency brake cable didn't go well. I managed to get most of it removed but it looks like there is about 2-3 inches that are still stuck in the tube. I pulled, wiggled, yelled, pulled some more and noting seemed to work. I'll go back out tomorrow and take another shot at removing it but I'm not optimistic.

['76mintgrün'02]

If we were neighbors, you could borrow this

[BeMyWay]

If we were neighbors, you could borrow this

 

I like...ingenuity!

[phano]

Update: I got it out! I wiggled. I strong armed. I applied heat. I conquered!

 

I then moved on to replace the rotors and brake pads...boy was I in for it. The seals around the caliper pistons were all bad. Do I just replace them or the entire caliper? Now to replacing the bearings on the rotor. I didn't realize the hub was screwed onto the rotor;I thought it was all one piece. That's what I get for being a novice at this. That wasn't mentioned (or I missed it) in the Haynes manual. I didn't have a hex bit to take it apart so I had to quit because the sun was setting and the temperature outside quickly plumetted. Until another day I guess.

[ray_]

IIRC those Allen bolts are not recessed. You likely could have applied (non customized) vise grips, though assembly should dictate proper tools and perhaps replacement bolts!

 

Haynes and this site should be almost all you need!

 

Cheers,

[s4sprint72]

I found I can't move any of the four adjusters on my 1975 year 1602. Please do you have any ideas I could try? After failing to move the hexes, I've tried Mole wrench and waterpump pliers on the eccentrics themselves (from the shoe side with shoes removed, of course). I've used lots of penetrating oil and even a blowtorch, but there's not a flicker of movement. I'm now thinking I'll have to buy or borrow a hub puller and a pair of new backplates - unless there's a cheaper solution?

['76mintgrün'02]

I used vice grips set really tight on the adjuster shaft and tapped them with a hammer to free mine up; one direction and then the other, back and forth.  (along with penetrating oil and a lot of heat).

 

Tapping on the hex adjuster with a hammer might help.  Not so hard that you bend the backplates, but shock is often very effective at breaking things loose.