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pictures of your urethane bushing contraptions


70roundtail02

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hand; no contraptions needed.

If the large front subframe bushings (front of car, near towing hooks) are at all worn, you should be able to pop 'em out with a pair of channel lock pliers. The two in the lower suspension arm have to be removed for forcefully. However, if you don't want to burn the old ones out, I made a set of pullers/installers from some plastic plumbing pipe couplers (thicker plastic than the pipe itself).

Drop me an e-mail for details...

cheers

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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you mean to install them?

4244562.jpg

done.... that's like all you need.. burn the old one out... install the new one..

Careful burning the ones out of your control arms - the steel shell they sit in can warp. Really quite annoying after you've painted them and only notice as you're about to install... As others will say these arms are best re-newed if you're refreshing your suspension and ten you might as well use the OEM rubber that comes pre-installed.

 

avaTour2.jpg.52fb4debc1ca18590681ac95bc6f527f.jpg

 

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hey Tristan, here's a shot of the one I used for my rear diff bushings. Its just a 3" or 3.5" PVC rounded endcap with a hole drilled in it, a length of 1/4" threaded rod, a hode clamp, and several nuts and washers. The key to this set up is (not shown) you should put a washer and nut on BOTH ENDS of the bushing, and then (obviously) a washer and nut over the PVC. This makes sure the bushing keeps its shape as it gets pressed in. I used my vice to keep it in one place, while I tightened the PVC from the top end.

The hose clamp makes sure you don't get any of the bulging out around the opening as you tighten down. I figured this out after some struggle, and it made everything much easier.

DiffBushings_02.jpg

DiffBushings_03.jpg

It also works well for pressing in rear bearings!

RearBearings_01.jpg

RearBearings_02.jpg

SIG4.jpg

click signature above for my resto blog

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The rear diff ones were so difficult I blocked out how I did them. The others I did went in by hand, as stated above.

When burning/melting out the old rubber bushings, I tried to only heat the inner metal sleeve, and I used a butane soldering iron, which was easy to focus. It seemed to take longer but I didn't damage anything. The ones at the very front on the subframe sorta caught fire though, so care is warranted.

I believe the stock rubber replacements need the press-in tool.

1963 Vespa VNB

1972 BMW 2002 - Sold :-(

1972 Porsche 911T - Sold :-(

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Harrison, thank you! That was exactly what I was looking for. I got the fronts alright and it was as I was working my way to the rear that i was having issues. I just couldn't remember where I had seen how you did it.

I've been spending days sequesterd in the garage with the aircompressor and a wire wheel.

p.s. got the control arm bushings out by cutting off one side of them and then punching them through by putting an old socket in and smacking the hell out of them. Also served as aggression relief.

Thanks as always

1970-resto/mod =money drain

1973 Charmonix, mhh clean

GO COUGS

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Glad to help. I think I took the rear diff bushings out with a sawzall and an air chisel.... Not exactly delicate work, but it fit the bill.

I should mention I applied a bunch of lithium grease to ease the bushings in. This also helped immensely. Outside of these two bushings, I'm pretty sure all the urethane was just hand-press in like others have mentioned.

Best of luck, and take "before" and "after" shots. Those are always fun to look at:

DiffBushings_01.jpg

SIG4.jpg

click signature above for my resto blog

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I didn't really need any contraption to put in the rear diff hanger bushings, like those pictured above.

Just use the vice to squeeze them in. You just need a wide diameter piece of metal pipe to put between the bracket and the jaw of the vice on one side. I had a fitting from a fire hose sitting nearby that worked.

I'm sure you could use any other piece of scrap sitting around. Maybe just a couple bars.

As for rear trailing arm one-piece poly bushings, those were not fun. Be sure to start one end of the bushing in first, with the inner metal sleeve slightly inserted into the other end of the bushing. Then squeeze them together. A huge bolt thru the middle with big washers on each end helps do the squeezing. An impact wrench with a helper to hold one end with a wrench will get it done quick.

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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