ALPINA 2002 (Plug mold for front fender)

Turb02 · January 2, 2008

Thanks for the links!

Question, when working with a stock fender, will/should I remove my fender and lay it flat so the "foam" can rise? once it rises and hardens, what did you use to shape it?

Im real interested in using this product but not sure how to apply it to the fender and still be able to use the fender? Will it destroy the fender?

Do you have any "in the process" pictures?

Turb02 · January 2, 2008

Thanks for the links!

Question, when working with a stock fender, will/should I remove my fender and lay it flat so the "foam" can rise? once it rises and hardens, what did you use to shape it?

Im real interested in using this product but not sure how to apply it to the fender and still be able to use the fender? Will it destroy the fender?

Do you have any "in the process" pictures?

January 2, 2008

I am by no means any sort of expert. I did a bunch of work with Fiberglass on some of the Schnitzer body parts before I sold them all off so I learned a bunch about resins (Epoxy and Polyester), body fillers etc., There is a tremendous amount of information out there both in books and on the net. I would advise you read up as much as you can before jumping in with two feet, otherwise you end up wasting time and money (and I have already learned a number of painful lessons, hoping not to repeat here) and don't have anything to show for it. I bought this book and read it cover to cover - somewhat technical but still understandable. The Fiberglast web link is also a really good one, there are a number of forums out there that you can find that have knowledgeable folks that can probably help you.

"Competition Car Composites" Simon McBeath

http://www.fibreglast.com/showproducts-category-Books+-+Automotive-138.html

To your questions: Once you apply it to the fender you will not be using the fender (at least until you strip all the foam off of it), if the car is like your daily driver you should go out and buy some fenders that are decent enough to make your molds off of (that's what i did). You essentially have to make a "bathtub" around the perimter of the fender (I used balsa wood and cardboard with various types of tape . The foam is liquid for probably 30-45 seconds so your bathtub has to retain the liquid without leaking (much). You also need to apply tape to theinside of the bathtup as the foam will stick to it and makes it hard to pull away. I ended up using about 32oz's of foam for this fender and made three pours (it would be best probably to make one pour, although you have to be spot on with 1:1 measurements AND QUICK because the stuff starts to go off within about 15-20 seconds of the two mixtures going together. My tools were pretty primitive but effective.... hacksaw blade, small serrated steak knife, serrated bread knife (don't tell wifey!), sureform file, various other files, sanding block with 80, 120, 220 grit paper and that is about it. Again, check the Fiberglast site, you can get the "proper" tools for not that much $$$, I have to say that the bread knife kicked a$$. Once the foam rises and cures it has sort of a glaze on it that makes it difficult to sand. I carved that layer off with the knives/blades and sureform. From there it is just time shaping. It goes without saying that you need to wear both eye and a high quality mask - I am guessing you will die (maybe not die but you will be hurting if you breath the particles of the foam in so be careful). Now that I have learned from a few mistakes I will try to document the process on the other side a little bit . Good luck.

January 2, 2008

I am by no means any sort of expert. I did a bunch of work with Fiberglass on some of the Schnitzer body parts before I sold them all off so I learned a bunch about resins (Epoxy and Polyester), body fillers etc., There is a tremendous amount of information out there both in books and on the net. I would advise you read up as much as you can before jumping in with two feet, otherwise you end up wasting time and money (and I have already learned a number of painful lessons, hoping not to repeat here) and don't have anything to show for it. I bought this book and read it cover to cover - somewhat technical but still understandable. The Fiberglast web link is also a really good one, there are a number of forums out there that you can find that have knowledgeable folks that can probably help you.

"Competition Car Composites" Simon McBeath

http://www.fibreglast.com/showproducts-category-Books+-+Automotive-138.html

To your questions: Once you apply it to the fender you will not be using the fender (at least until you strip all the foam off of it), if the car is like your daily driver you should go out and buy some fenders that are decent enough to make your molds off of (that's what i did). You essentially have to make a "bathtub" around the perimter of the fender (I used balsa wood and cardboard with various types of tape . The foam is liquid for probably 30-45 seconds so your bathtub has to retain the liquid without leaking (much). You also need to apply tape to theinside of the bathtup as the foam will stick to it and makes it hard to pull away. I ended up using about 32oz's of foam for this fender and made three pours (it would be best probably to make one pour, although you have to be spot on with 1:1 measurements AND QUICK because the stuff starts to go off within about 15-20 seconds of the two mixtures going together. My tools were pretty primitive but effective.... hacksaw blade, small serrated steak knife, serrated bread knife (don't tell wifey!), sureform file, various other files, sanding block with 80, 120, 220 grit paper and that is about it. Again, check the Fiberglast site, you can get the "proper" tools for not that much $$$, I have to say that the bread knife kicked a$$. Once the foam rises and cures it has sort of a glaze on it that makes it difficult to sand. I carved that layer off with the knives/blades and sureform. From there it is just time shaping. It goes without saying that you need to wear both eye and a high quality mask - I am guessing you will die (maybe not die but you will be hurting if you breath the particles of the foam in so be careful). Now that I have learned from a few mistakes I will try to document the process on the other side a little bit . Good luck.

flybmw02 · January 2, 2008

Hi,

On my car I started with Kormans fenders I had on my car.I made them higher and a little wider.

You will most likely sacrifice your fenders, what your makeing is a plug for the mold and it has to be near perfect to make a mold. It has to be strong and ridged or it will distort. The two part foam sticks to allmost anything and does not come off easiley.

The way I would do it is on the car, extend the arch with carboard and use formica for the flare riveted and taped to the fender with no holes. Cover everthing you don't want foam on. Then pour the foam, it grows fast and you don't have to do it in one pour. After it cures cut it with you wifes serated bread knife and shape with bondo to what you want. The bondo should be at least 3/8 thick or the mold will suck in and make an indent.

"Sounds like fun". Ok then after you have all the body work done your ready to spray it with Dura tec primer. Sand it til it's real smooth this the important. Then you wax it with Carnuba wax three times and polish it.

Wipe it down with mold release and your plug is ready for making the mold. Then you spray or roll on gell coat let it set for wile an lay the glass on and all the reinforcement to keep the mold strait with no distortion, this can be done in multiple steps. The mold should be at least 3/16 or thicker.

After a day or so cut the excess glass and remove mold from plug with weadges and compress air. And the put it back togeather and put in sun to further cure. Two days latter we are ready to make the part.

wet sand the mold with no more the 800 grit, dry and wax three times with carnuba wax polish,then mold release.

Now we are ready to make the part, Spray or roll gel coat, wait and hour and lay out you glass two or three layers. let it cure and its the same as takeing it off the plug.

Buy lots of Tyvec suits hood socks and a "full face resporator"

Tar paper works good on the floor.

Good luck and have fun.

Or pay someone to do it, I only made my molds and a few parts I gave in and paid a profesional to make the parts I saved alot of money.

John

flybmw02 · January 2, 2008