Metal prep or just prime after sandblasting?

[Guest]

I just had the trunk sandblasted. They decided to only hit the spots with rust and once they cut into spots that they determined were solid they stopped. The PO had sprayed some sort of rubberized coating on the inside. Still wondering if I should grind this all out or just leave it and paint over.

I know I need to hit the fresh metal with some primer ASAP, but I'm not sure if I need to hit it with a metal etcher before. I have a bottle of POR-15 metal prep. Would this step be required or can I just prime right after sandblasting.

Also kicking around doing a layer of por -15 before the primer step.

Recommendations please.

TIA

[bottlerocket]

I would wipe down the surface with some wax and grease remover and epoxy prime.

[jerry]

I would wipe down the surface with some wax and grease remover and epoxy prime.

+1

skip the POR-15. after a good coat of 2-part epoxy prime you can use seam sealer in the nooks and crannies, then prime or texturize and paint.

[esty]

I would wipe down the surface with some wax and grease remover and epoxy prime.

+2....that'll give the best protection available

[Guest]

Thanks guys. I also realized in reading old threads the rubber coating is probably OEM (Wurth SKS). In order to remove this stuff and really get down to bare metal everywhere it looks like I'll be using a heat gun and a scraper. Think this is the best way to really clean it up and start from scratch. Is it worth the extra labor?

[H_Krix]

Depends on how crazy you are. gave me piece of mind to know everything that was under the paint, even though I didn't find any rust.

I used a coil-wire wheel. It sucked, but I'm glad I did it.

[bugtustlebub]

Harrison,

I am taking the paint off of my '74 with a grinder and cupped twisted wire wheel. I guess that I am pretty crazy, too. The PO sprayed gobs of paint over red oxide primer over gray primer over the original paint. Trying to remove it with a DA and 80 grit is not productive. I finally resorted to the cupped wire wheel, again, after clogging 50 disks of 80-grit. The various "coatings" come off fairly easily and I'm careful to leave as much factory primer as I can. I find that the DA performs much better after 3 layers of coatings have been removed. Of course, it's an East Coast '02, and the more work I do, the more I uncover that needs to be done.

I also found quite a volume of expanding urethane foam which was used to fill and add backing to body filler. It has been an experience.

I'm hoping to have it ready for paint by July 1st. We'll see........

Regards,

Randy

[dlmrun2002]

I'd use metal conditioner ...then epoxy primer... But get that bare metal taken care of ASAP..

My 2¢

dlm