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Shortened Struts (again) and some other stuff.........


peteinjp

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Well mostly pics but just to show how I did it. I followed the diagram listed here on the FAQ:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,download/id,1737/

First- removed the original perch- love the milwaukee portable band saw...

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Next all important tool of late- the chip saw.....

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This is straight off the saw. I'll never go back to an abrasive disc again.

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What weld??? I know I had good penetration because I had to file out the inside in a few spots- just a little:

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Lower stiffener followed by the re-enforcement for relocating the sway bar link:

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All welded up:

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2 part epoxy coal tar should last a while- A real PITA to get the spray gun clean though!

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The spacer for the bottom. The holes are drilled so I can pull the thing out of the tube. My jack handle is now about 15cm shorter that it was- ha! Note the taper needed to fit to the bottom of the strut tube:

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I'm probably the only one that does this but I don;t like the way that the bilstein's rely on the seal in the gland nut to keep them centered in the tube:

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All together and wired with the addition of Lee's spacers:

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On the car- another pet peeve with the billy's and coilovers is that that gland nut seal gets beat ( as there is no room for the supplied dist boot and with soft rubber throwing sand everywhere) real quick letting water down into the insert. The blue tubing is an effort to try and combat this problem. Not pretty but we'll see if it works. Also note the weep hole at the bottom of the new perch to let water etc. that may collect between the strut housing and the threaded collar.

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Wow this is a GREAT post. Thank you very much for showing.

I have a question about the Chip Saw blade. I've never used one before, but can you just mount them on a regular chop saw for cutting the struts? It looks like a chop saw in your pic but its difficult to tell.

Thanks!

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No- It turns at a much slower speed than a regular chop saw. The cool thing is that the metal does not even get hot and there are no sparks.

Basically I used a drill press, chip saw, belt sander, bench grinder and my lincoln 180 Mig for all the fabrication. Its fun.

Here's my little shop (which I am also using to build a my glass blowing studio...)

IMG_8433.jpg

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No- It turns at a much slower speed than a regular chop saw. The cool thing is that the metal does not even get hot and there are no sparks.

Basically I used a drill press, chip saw, belt sander, bench grinder and my lincoln 180 Mig for all the fabrication. Its fun.

Here's my little shop (which I am also using to build a my glass blowing studio...)

IMG_8433.jpg

Very cool, thank you. I was impressed by the cuts, but I don't think I can justify buying the saw for just two cuts. =( I'll have to use the old hack saw.

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Pedro,

I made them from bar stock. The turnbuckle is 18mm and I just happened to have carbide 18mm hole saw. 8 sides was easier to make and with the low clearance easier to find a flat to get a wrench on.

Rover1- A few reasons. One is that I have used the epoxy coal tar in the past- specifically on my gas tank (with a brush) and it is super tough. At that time I used a PPG product that I got an industrial paint supply store. I put on a thick coat on well prepped metal and years later it is in perfect condition- no chips etc.

Also to find a place here that would do one off coating would be difficult and likely expensive. I can touch this up with a brush again if needed. And I just happen to have a gallon of it.

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More pics:

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Since I used Lee's spacer I had these on safety bolts hand perfect size. The allen bolts that come with the adjusters bear into the plate so i wanted to use something wider I figured why not.

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Also thought I'd mention that the inserts were from Bob Breed- Thanks! I had them rebuilt and re-valved for my spring rates.

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