How do the fenders join to the nose?

[blue7500]

I seem to recall the factory using lead (well, not on my car since they'd been replaced at some point) but are there any easier, more DIY-friendly ways of filling the 2" seam at the top of the nose to the fenders?

[jerry]

i used an aluminum-filled bondo on mine. it is still subject to hairline cracks, but so far, so good. available at Finish Masters in San Rafael and other suppliers, or eastwood.

[TobyB]

I actually have made a visible seam up there on the last 2 cars I re- nosed.

It takes a bit of bodywork, but then when a fender has to come off,

it's just bolts.

On one car I ran a small bolt through to attach and align,

but on the race car, it's just a butt joint. A little seam sealer,

and it's held up for 2 years. And I do hit things occasionally...

t

[JR]

I used the real thing from eastwood with a propane torch and oak stick

[mattmcginn]

Factory method was two mig tack welds, if even that, and then slather on the factory equivalent of bondo, lead.

We prefer fully welding the seam because the business is hazardous enough without lead or even no lead solder involved. Factory was trying to save 20 seconds per car doing it this way, they were not perfectionists nor building cars for the ages. If you prefer ease of replacement vs originality, do the seam method that replicates the lower seam. Bondoing the seam with no welding will only lead to cracks later on, and hence, completely wasted efforts.

Pic of one owner-no accident-never replaced fender or nose after the lead is melted out:

Note how factory "craftsman" beat the fender tip in. You ought to see the work we see on the rear roof seam just above the C pillar.

[blue7500]

Good info there, so should I just grind the edges of the nose and fender until they have a nice, round contour if I'm not going the filling route?

[mattmcginn]

This is tough. Fit it nicely. Usually to within 1/3 mm or so offset.

Use enough weld "heat" (voltage) where you do not burn through, but enough so that you have adequate penetration. Do this with clean enough metal so that there are no "volcanoes" or porous "pops". Then grind it back to level the surface to the enough so that the weld is gone but ther is enough metal so it can flex but wont crack...

Its super tough because experience is the best teacher...and this is a weld that is easy to make compared to a nice butt weld. Do some practice on flanged pieces that mimic what you are trying to do. Cannot emphasize cleanliness or material enough.

Matt

[blue7500]

Thanks for the info Matt but I meant if I'm not going to go the filling/welding route, ie just having a small gap between the fender and nose. Should I just shape the rough edges with a grinder?

[mattmcginn]

Understood. Sorry bud.

Just do the fitting as close as you can in the metal, you may have to do some creative work to get them to fit nicely depending on the accident history of the car. Make up for what you can't do in metal with some good fiberglass reinforced plastic. Fit the fender to the door and then do all the nose related work. Just do not cover anything that can get air or water infiltration from the back with plastic or it will come back to bite you badly

Make sure the fender and nose are primed well where the joint is so you don't have rust creep out from behind that joint. Do not under any circumstances cover that joint with bondo or plastic of any type even if it looks good now, it will crack and fail shortly if not welded.

Easier said than done, just tread carefully and know that the best way to do it is to weld it.

The