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Bilstein top nut removal - help


Paul7002

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The allen wrench hole on the top is stripped so I have nothing to hold it with when trying to loosen the way too tight 19 mm nut.

The strut is out of the car and is otherwise disassembled. I've got just the strut insert with the upper spring cup and strut bearing still attached.

any ideas?

thanks

Paul in Richmond
'70 Chamonix
'85 535i, 2000 R1100R

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i've used a cheapo grinder to cut the nut. you will sacrifice the strut mount though cuz the cutting wheel will likely contact the rubber. no need to slice all the way through the nut. get close enough then use a cold chisel to persuade it a little.

Former owner of 2570440 & 2760440
Current owner of 6 non-op 02's

& 1 special alfa

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I take it since you are off to borrow air tools you do not have them.

Sometimes an impact gun will spin the nut and leave the bolt alone. Try that before you go to the die grinder.

Not sure if you are reusing or can sacrifice the strut, that answer will take us to different solutions.

"90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike."

1972 2000tii Touring #3422489

1972 2002tii with A4 system #2761680

FAQ member #5

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It appears OK. I am dissassembling the whole strut assembly in search of the annoying "thwok" noise. Something doesn't look right with the upper spring-cup and strut bearing. Bent? I dunno.

Anyway, I think I'll pursue Mike's advice with an air wrench. I think I've got Rob's phone number around here somewhere...

Air tools and compressor are on my wish list

Paul in Richmond
'70 Chamonix
'85 535i, 2000 R1100R

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destroying the nut - shouldn't do any collateral damage, either.

Nut splitters aren't tools you're likely to use real often, but they're invaluable in situations like this one........

Barry Allen
'69 Sunroof - sold
'82 E21 (daily driver), '82 633CSi (wife's driver) - both sold
66 Chevy Nova wagon (yard & parts hauler)

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It appears OK. I am dissassembling the whole strut assembly in search of the annoying "thwok" noise. Something doesn't look right with the upper spring-cup and strut bearing. Bent? I dunno.

Anyway, I think I'll pursue Mike's advice with an air wrench. I think I've got Rob's phone number around here somewhere...

Air tools and compressor are on my wish list

The noise could be caused by a loose gland nut. If it is loose, the whole shock cartridge can move inside the strut and it makes a knocking sound.

BMWCCA #2762
72 2002/71 2002ti, 67 2000CS, 2x 72 3.0CS
86 635, 2x 05 330Ci ZHP, 
'11 Corvette Grand Sport

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Guest Anonymous
The allen wrench hole on the top is stripped so I have nothing to hold it with when trying to loosen the way too tight 19 mm nut.

The strut is out of the car and is otherwise disassembled. I've got just the strut insert with the upper spring cup and strut bearing still attached.

any ideas?

I have a set of bilsteins with a small hex at the top of each strut. I think it takes a 10 mm wrench/socket to hold it while you unscrew the nylock retention nut. The design probably changed to the allen wrench design with which you are dealing. The design I have dealt with is/was good for on or possibly two removals before the hex became rounded requiring the use of vice grips. I have seen a great number of these older style struts with the hex shaped top filed down to something resembling the driving end of a flat head screwdriver. They also tend to have gouge marks just below that area where the frustrated mechanic just grabbed the shaft with a pipewrench.

I once turned down several sets of free struts because of those offensive marks. In retrospect, I should have taken them because the strut never collapses far enough into the cartridge for the marks/gouging to near the internal seals.

I think the other posters have offered good advice. But, you might just as well get yourself some urethane gloves for your vice jaws or channel lock pliers (Have seen these at Harbor Freight) and have at the top portion of the strut. If it is close to the top, you do not have that much to worry about.

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