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Replacing the heater valve without removing the heater box?


JohnS

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I've noticed that the heater valve on my 1974 tii has started to leak. I've purchased a new valve, but was wondering whether the valve can be replaced without having to remove the entire heater box? I've looked at the leaking valve from the passenger side, but it doesn't look too easy to get to the bolt securing the valve to the mounting bracket nor easy to get to the bolt securing the lever to the valve. I'd just like to know whether it's possible before I make an attempt at removing it. Thanks, --John

'73tii Inka 🍊

'74tii Fjord 🏄‍♂️

 

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It takes good light, small hands and some extensions for your 1/4 ratchets

This article from the '02 FAQ may help too.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/73/32/

BE CAREFUL not to break plastic support that is on the heater box

Spray all the bolts, nuts, and hose clamps with penetrant now then come back,

Are you back?

Disconnect the short heater hoses on both sides of the heater valve. Get them out of the way. If you have BMW clamps, a 6mm socket on the end of a ratchet with extensions make this easier. Prise off the hoses with a screwdriver, or least break the seal between the hose and the valve. A cotter pin removing tool is also good to break this seal.

That was easy.

Remember where your valve is and the next thing you are to remove: mark, take pictures, tell your wife, etc. Is the valve open, closed? Where is this little arm pointing to? The real mechanics call this indexing.

Now most will tell you not to disconnect the pinch type connector holding the cable, cuz it is too hard to reconnect. So, disconnect that arm from the heater valve. Can not remember if that is a small bolt or screw. May be either. This is where you need good light and long extensions to get at it from the driver's side plenum or the center opening where the latch works.

Now that is off and your knuckles are bleeding slightly move to the next step unless the valve is now in your hands.

If the valve is in your hands, that means the plastic tabs on the heater box are broken like most are.

If the valve is still attached to the plastic tabs, be careful or your box will have broken tabs like most others.

Remove whatever is holding the valve to the plastic tabs.

A fellow is making a "replacement" support for the plastic tabs that break off. I made one a long time ago that resembles what he is no selling. Dang, patents we don't get!

Oh well, not sure if you can put on of these on while the heater box is attached because the replacement bracket I made takes nuts and bolts.

To put things back together, go get a lady with small hands and buy her jewelry.

Aug2044.jpg

"90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike."

1972 2000tii Touring #3422489

1972 2002tii with A4 system #2761680

FAQ member #5

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Good! conrfirmation at last that Ruth did many of the highly skilled parts of that car. You are lucky that you can work on the cars together. Keitha basically laughs at me when I ask her to spend a bit of quality garage time, but she does like driving the turbo.

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Bill- your a bastard !

when Ruth's knee (s) heal , I'll be honored to

recommend to her my hand surgeon who rebuilt BOTH

of my thumb joints, with both carpol tunnel loosenings,

and a side order of left ulner (funny bone area) nerve

release - all because of my decades spent with my

hands and arm trapped inside Mercedes-Benz dashboards

- kinda like the position Ruth is in now.

Does she have Workers Comp with your firm ?

back to the subject .....

lots of bright light

PATIENCE

LONG thin arms

good finger tip control

tiny tools

go gentle - don't break anything !

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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that's alright Bill,

My 82 year old mother (who is very ill now) spent many cold nights

in many of my cars (before pressure bleeders were invented)

pumping my brakes. She hated to hear that I was 'doing brakes'

because she know what was coming next! But it's Mom's fault.

Remember , it was her that got me hooked on cars by taking

my brother and I to Watkins Glen one summer day in 1957

to watch the 'Car Races' .

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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Thanks for letting me know it can be done. Unfortunately, I have very large hands so is almost impossible for me. I'll try now though...

To put things back together, go get a lady with small hands and buy her jewelry.

My wife has the small hands, but will have nothing to do with it. Fortunately, my mechanic has small hands if I decide I can't do it myself. Thanks for all the help guys!

'73tii Inka 🍊

'74tii Fjord 🏄‍♂️

 

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In a similar vein -- I have a shell that's been prepped and painted for a re-build. I was wondering if:

1. the piece of metal that covers the heater box in the engine compartment could be modified to create a sort of access hatch ( so you didn't have to go through the different contortions);

2. would one need to get to the heater box often enough to warrant that type of modification?

"When the government fears the People, that is Liberty. When the People fear the Government, that is tyranny."

- Thomas Jefferson

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Fix it right now, you will be 80 when you may have to redo it then.

We will be in our Hoverrounds by then Dennis. We will worry how to hop those buggers up. Can you see us now in the home? Racing around the halls in the Hoverrounds going to dinner at 4:30, Roundels on the front, wondering how we can make them go faster, corner better, start faster, ......

We will have a shop down by the game room, equipped with a one post lift (they are not that heavy) race tracks beside the walking path, paint booth out by the maintenance shed, sounds great huh?

"90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike."

1972 2000tii Touring #3422489

1972 2002tii with A4 system #2761680

FAQ member #5

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I just pulled my box out today and then the box top broke in several places while trying to "gently" separate the sections and remove the valve. I have small(ish) hands and I had a hard time removing the two heater hoses. The driver side hose was so tight thru the bulkhead I had to remove the wiper motor to get to the hose with a pair of pliers.

I highly recommend pulling the entire box. How old is your fan motor? When was the last time the heater core and seals were inspected? My box was rebuilt in 2002/2003 and now needs a new motor (along with the top section and donut seals).

ps: My car has A/C but it wasn't too bad to pull it off to the side.

post-8235-13667599973542_thumb.jpg

post-8235-13667599974344_thumb.jpg

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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  • 2 weeks later...
I'm looking for guidence on replacing the cable for the heater valve without tearing out the dash.

Maybe try using a piece of strong string or thin wire tied to the old cable while you pull it out from inside the car, then tie it to the new cable to pull it back thru.

The tiny grommet that is next to the heater valve will be tough to get back in place along with final adjustment of the cable once installed.

If you don't have A/C, I would still pull the entire assembly out. It took me less than two days to remove mine (including pulling the A/C console off to the side).

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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