passenger door doesn't lock anymore

[Guest Anonymous]

my passenger side door doesn't lock for some reason. the door shuts and stays closed fine...just can't lock it. i'm sure this is an easy fix...so can someone provide some help here on how to take care of this?

[Scott Sislane]

remove the door panel (interior) so you can access the mechanism's. It may just need lubrication. They can get corroded. You should lube everything in the door while you have the panel off, including the window mech's. Grease required there. Clean & lube everything.

Also, you want to make to keep your plastic scrim in place so it keeps any water IN the door, and not on your door panel. You may need to replace it w/ new plastic.

Be careful when popping the plastic door grommets, they brake, and you can also damage the cardboard on the panel.

Once you re-assemble your door(s) you'll feel great in knowing they are set for a while.

If your door brakes are broken or damaged, it's a good time to replace them as well.

Good luck-

[JackF]

I found it was best ot just remove the whole mechanism for cleaning and lubrication. However, if you want to leave it in place a good brush to use is a flux brush. the 6" metal handle with the short stiff bristles. It's the kind plumbers use.

[BillWilliams]

(it is easy once the panel is off) it is easy to clean and ensure which part of the opening system is giving you grief.

The handle comes off with two screws/bolts:

One Philips screw at the edge of the door, make sure you remember how the wedge is oriented under that screw.

One M6 (10mm head) bolts inside the door. Window must be up to access it.

The handle will fall off in your hand when these two things are removed. Now go about cleaning and lubing. Brake clean is a great cleaner, even cleans grease you get on the living room carpet, use the non-chlorinated kind for carpet. Then lube it. I really like the Wurth stuff for this. It goes on as a light oil and turns to a light grease.

Now with the handle off, you can determine if the problem is in the handle or the mechanism. You will be able to tell.

This is the time to make sure that little grommet is in place where the locking rod goes through the locking mechanism. This grommet holds the rod in place as you thread it through the door panel and keeps the rod from banging around in there.

New gaskets may be in order between the handle and the body. Careful here, tighten too tight, the gasket splits, not enough, the handle will loosen.

Also make sure those little caps are on the outside of the striker. Only one per side.

You will need some new clips that hold the door panel to the door, some of them always break. There are little condom type things that go into the door, where the clips go that make things easier. Order these too. Section 51/48 of the parts catalog, sorry forgot the number.

Make your life easier for the next time you are in here. As you were removing the door panel, the thought "why are these things so difficult to remove" crossed your mind. The clips that hold the silver strip to the door panel has two barbs per clip. If you take a pair of needle nose pliers and bend those barbs back, like de-barbing a fish hook, it makes putting those panels on and off much easier.

[Kidasters]

Bill -

I am scared to ask Blunt for "the little condom type things". You never know what you'll get.

I had to say it.

Ken

[Mike Self]

does the key not turn in its cylinder at all (corroded or "frozen" lock)? Does it only turn partway and then not want to turn far enough to pull the inside locking knob down all the way?

If the former, try lubing the lock cylinder with a purpose lock lube--one brand is "Lockeze"--that might save you dismantling the door.

If the latter, you're gonna have to remove the inside door panel and delve into the lock mechanism. It's possible for the interface beetween the outside handle part of the locking mechanism to jam against the parts inside the door. Hard to explain in words, but easy to spot. If this is the problem, I believe there's something in the archives that covers this. If not, drop me an e-mail and I think I have the fix.

cheers

mike

[bmcallister]

If it is the cylinder that needs lubing, definitely use something specifically designed for lock key/cylinder mechanisms - Lockeze, etc. etc, OR just use plain old graphite. Do not use oil or oil-based as it will work in the short-term but over a bit of time it traps dirt and junk in and will make you problem worse.

[ClayW]

Lots of good stuff at www.zeebuck.com, but here's the link to his page on unsticking and re-keying the door locks:

http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/doorlocks/doorlocks.html

Good luck!

[beammmer]

I removed the locking mechanism and cleaned 35 years of old sticky gooey lubrication added some fresh and clean lubrication the lock works like new. Next step the driver's side, after the coolant leak. Don