subaru timing belt change, anyone done one?

[KFunk]

I've done a lot of research and ready to do the job tomorrow, but I wanted to see if there's any smart people on here that have done it. On the Subaru forums are a bunch of idiots/non-mechanics that keep confusing timing marks and screwing up the install and bending valves. It's not my car, and I really don't want to do that. I'm thinking there's a few people on here that are a bit more trustworthy than subaru forum people.

I don't know why its so difficult for some people. There's all kinds of discussion on pressed marks vs. painted marks in strange places. But I figure you just remove the timing covers, spin the crank till everything lines up, take note of the positions and marks on crank sprocket and cam sprockets. Put some chalk marks on belt/sprockets and transfer chalk marks to new belt, put all back in same positions. Of course rotate engine by hand multiple times to verify there's no piston/valve contact. Then put it back together. I've done it on a multiple in-line 4s, and granted the boxer engine is different, but seems like no big deal to me.

It's a 2000 Subaru Outback w/115K miles, 2.5L SOHC (EJ25) and Auto tranny. The manual says replace belt at 105K, and all sources say its interference (so its about time). After researching, I got all new pulleys, hydraulic tensioner, t-belt from AutohausAZ.

Oh, and my other issue is getting the right torque for the crank bolt (130ft. lbs.)... since its an Automatic... I can't find a good explanation of holding things still except for a $160 dealer tool. One guy just says to tighten the crap out of it best you can, and it'll self-tighten later. Is that really possible?

So yeah, if anyone can help, lemme know. Thanks!

[hrg88]

The only problem with the Subaru 4 cly is that sometimes the cams move after taking off the belt. Unlike a straight 4 the loads on the cams are not balanced at TDC. I always wash everything down with brake cleaner, then mark the pulleys and block for alignment.

To get the torque right, I use a strap wrench I got from NAPA on the crank pulley. It has a 1" wide flat ribbed automotive belt and a cam action that tightens in either direction.

[KFunk]

The only problem with the Subaru 4 cly is that sometimes the cams move after taking off the belt. Unlike a straight 4 the loads on the cams are not balanced at TDC. I always wash everything down with brake cleaner, then mark the pulleys and block for alignment.

To get the torque right, I use a strap wrench I got from NAPA on the crank pulley. It has a 1" wide flat ribbed automotive belt and a cam action that tightens in either direction.

Great idea! I'm gonna guess you have a buddy hold that, of course? I'll have to get some one over here at that time.

Yeah, I've noticed some people saying that the cams can spin... and have some ideas on tackling that.

[hrg88]

Easily done with one person. The wrench comes with a 1/2" drive socket fitting its own handle. Just use one hand on the strap wrench and one on the torque wrench and pull them towards each other.

It is a KD tool, #3284.

Getting the cams lined up and held in place is a bit more tricky, but it can also be done with one person by getting the belt ready to go on them turning the cam to the correct position and sliding the belt over the pulley. Not much cursing needed.

Bill

[KFunk]

Easily done with one person. The wrench comes with a 1/2" drive socket fitting its own handle. Just use one hand on the strap wrench and one on the torque wrench and pull them towards each other.

It is a KD tool, #3284.

Getting the cams lined up and held in place is a bit more tricky, but it can also be done with one person by getting the belt ready to go on them turning the cam to the correct position and sliding the belt over the pulley. Not much cursing needed.

Bill

Success! A squeal that quickly went away, but no valves bent. Just about to test drive it.

Strap wrench worked perfect. I couldn't find that one at our NAPA, but Autozone had one. It was a different style one with just a rubber belt and a plastic handle, no socket fitting. But the handle wedged against the power steering pulley to hold it in place.

Thanks much for the great idea. Two other forums couldn't come up with anything useful.

[KFunk]

OK, now to figure out how to get rid of the CEL.... disconnect battery for 5 minutes?

[hrg88]

2000 is OBDII, disconnecting the battery will not reset it, it has to be done with a scan tool. The light will go off when the problem is gone if it is not reset. If you run back out to Autozone they will read the code for free but they can not reset it.

[KFunk]

2000 is OBDII, disconnecting the battery will not reset it, it has to be done with a scan tool. The light will go off when the problem is gone if it is not reset. If you run back out to Autozone they will read the code for free but they can not reset it.

Ah, just found out the CEL comes and goes sometimes due to bumps in the road anyways, and she doesn't care. So I'm not worrying with it.

That was fun, I kinda like weird engines and challenges. Now I need to find a rotary...

[KFunk]

check out this hot ghetto mess:

[MVMASOFT.COM]

The only problem with the Subaru 4 cly is that sometimes the cams move after taking off the belt. Unlike a straight 4 the loads on the cams are not balanced at TDC. I always wash everything down with brake cleaner, then mark the pulleys and block for alignment

[golf73]

The only problem with the Subaru 4 cly is that sometimes the cams move after taking off the belt. Unlike a straight 4 the loads on the cams are not balanced at TDC. I always wash everything down with brake cleaner, then mark the pulleys and block for alignment