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oxidized paint


pinkey

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the paint on my '73 has faded and oxidized from verona red to pink hence the name pinkey any ideas on cleaning up the oxidation? (waxes wash techniques etc.)

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Driving a vintage car always makes traveling an adventure.

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A good wash, followed by a polishing compound - I used Meguiar's Ultimate Coumpound on my Sahara '74 with very good results. (My paint wasn't that oxidized.) Follow that with good wax. I don't have a buffer I trust so did it by hand.

Took me just about a whole weekend, and I was very happy with the results.

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Steve E.

www.theportabledad.com

1974 Sahara 2002

1974 R75/6 (Sold!) :(

This is a fertile land, and we will thrive. We will rule over all this land, and we will call it…This Land

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Check this website for very good info:

http://www.carcareonline.com/howto.aspx

When we rescued my wife's ' 76 from a junk yard 10 yrs. ago, where it had been sitting for 5 yrs. after sitting in the front yard of the original owner for another 10+ yrs. it was really oxidized. Followed their instructions, using their brand-name products, and, voila, after only a total of 100 hours of hand work by my son and I, the car looked beautiful.

Bob Napier

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Or the institutional way-

wet- sand it with 1200 down to solid color, then

polish it back up.

Me, I'm never painting another car without clearcoat again-

I'm sick of the oxidation, too.

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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google or search ebay for a better price on a box of 3M Trizact Hookit II sanding pads...they fit a 6 inch RO sander and are only 3000 grit...go over the entire car with those then start polishing...it would be a super time saver if you had a buffer with a wool pad and some compound but it can be done by hand using the 3000 grit

3m2075.jpg

you can buy a cheap RO sander at harbor freight as well as a cheap buffer and pad...

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If you do this-

tape the ridges in the hood and trunk

tape (or remove) the waist trim

remove as much else as you can

mask everything else with heavy tape.

be careful! The DA will love to pick up grit and scratch,

dig in, bind up... It's the fast and professional way to do

it, but you can sand right through things if you don't

have a bit of caution.

I know- I've done it!

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Meguiar's Ultimate Compound it's $ 10.00 you won't be disappointed !!!!

First wash your car well .... dry it .... apply the compound... wipe off with a cotton towel... then wax the car with a wax of your choice this step is very important because if you don't the oxidation will be back pronto. Let us know how it turns out.

Dudley

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71 BMW 2002 "Von Eiff" gone baby gone

73 BMW 2002 " Mingus "

04 BMW X5

75 Triumph Tr6

00 CLK 430 Conv

Honda Elite Scooter

Vespa Ciao

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My 2cents

1. If you haven't worked with a d/a or buffer - don't start now (keep reading)

2. Use the lightest or finest grit products you can - remember you want to remove a layer of oxidized paint but only that and leave as much paint there to work with.

3. I've used Meguiars and 3M both with good effect. I'm partial to 3M.

4. Use products labeled as 'safe for clear coat' - they are less likely to damage the stronger single stage paint on the '02

(Hey BTW you never said anything about whether the car was ever repainted - check the door jambs and the underood and trunk)

5. Try out whatever you bought in a place where it won't show - like under the hood or under the trunk - and see what it takes to get the paint to shine up. I'm a sick person so these areas get the same treatment as the exterior on my cars.

6. Check the paint all over for nicks and deep scratches - these may require touch up which you really want to do before you do finish work. No matter how hard you look, once you're in the process you will find more no matter how hard you checked the 1st time.

7. If the rest of the car is work-worthy then consider carefully taking off the trim /roundels and badge off the rear but be careful!

8. Use high-quality rags as well - this will go a long way.

9. After you do one section (like half the hood or half the roof), stop and use a high-quality glaze followed by a high-quality sealant and then at least one coat of wax. The glaze will remove the rubbing marks, the sealant is a bonding copolymer which will lock down the paint from oxygen until the wax job fails and UV has it's day and you have to do the glaze/sealer/wax again. If you have a good buffer, use it for the glaze and the wax, you will get superior results. Use a low RPM setting and ALWAYS KEEP MOVING.

8. After the glaze you will have a mirror-like finish indistinguishable from (and sometimes better than) the factory.

Different areas need more or less attention. My old '99 K2500 needed the works every other month but only on the barn doors/tailgate. The hood and roof once a year (it was not garaged after it was 5 years old and it was gloss black) and the sides maybe every 6-8 months but when it was done it looked indescribable.

Is fuel efficiency really what we need most desperately? I say what we really need is a car that can be shot when it breaks down.

- George Carlin

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Everything he said. And remember, you are removing an entire layer of paint or clearcoat. You can see my Siennabraun heap the day I got it home. Yes, I was disgusted by its appearance, too. It sat in California sun for 30 years and looked milky tan. With a buffing wheel and a heavy grit compound I got it to look brown again. It's a lot of work. It still needs a repaint, but at least it looks good from 20 feet.

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72 Agave tii

2012 Space Grey 335i

76 Sienabraun - sold  95 M3 - sold  06 M Coupe - sold

Where's Alonzo?!

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I have had good luck using both Meguire's and Griot's Garage Products.

Two pictures below are from an '89 Integra that my brother-in-law gave to me (sold in 2005). It sat outside in NC and FL for many years without any wax. The sunroof tubes were completely clogged with pine needles and "goop". The entire cowl cover had to be removed to get the green "funk" out. The wheelwell liners were pulled so I could really get the NC black dirt and needles out. The "before" picture was after I had used "Nu-Finish" because I was only down in FL for a quick trip. The after picture shows detailing using Griot's Machine Polish 1, 2 & 3 with the Porter Cable RO unit (also from Griot's). Griot's Best of Show wax was used to keep it nice for about 6 months.

Before polishing

After with lots of other work

Anyone out there with either an E30 or E36 in bright red knows how difficult the paint is to keep shiny - especially if stored outdoors.

As others have said - keep the buffer moving and watch out for the edges.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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Nice job! Bet your arms were sore after all that.

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound it's $ 10.00 you won't be disappointed !!!!

First wash your car well .... dry it .... apply the compound... wipe off with a cotton towel... then wax the car with a wax of your choice this step is very important because if you don't the oxidation will be back pronto. Let us know how it turns out.

Dudley

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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