New hood seals 3M adhesive won't hold, what to use ?

[DanOKC]

I recently installed 2 new hood seals 41-61-5-480-195 & 196, & after a week

or so, in 90 plus heat, the glue lets go & they fold over, not sealing the hood.

I'm using black 3M black weatherstrip adhesive. I installed a new door seal few months back with it & had to reglue the lower 2 feet under the door latch after a few weeks & blamed that on myself not using enough glue.

Do you think I got a crappy tube of glue or is there something better I can use for these hood seals ? I cleaned & scraped the seal & the body before gluing, taped them down till the glue dried, 2nd attempt on one hood seal did not work.

[jgerock]

You are not alone. I installed new side seals on my car before the V@V using 3M adhesive remover on the seals and car body before using black 3M weatherstrip adhesive.

I followed the directions on the tube and let the seals sit for a couple of days with the hood open (car in garage). Now the front of both are loose and flop around.

The mold release (silicone) that helps the rubber part come out of the injection mold is most likely the culprit. Clean them up and try again (that's on my list).

[72Golf]

I had the same problems with 3M stuff on my '02 and my pick up. Crap doesn't hold on in the heat. I bought some Goop brand automotive adhesive for a sagging headliner and tried it out on the weatherstripping. That stuff really holds on and is cheap. Try it.

[72Fjord02]

Wurth Rubber Glue, awesome for all weather stripping that requires gluing.

Most importantly it is German, so it works better on BMWs :-)

[BillWilliams]

I have had some success with the yellow 3M adhesive and with Weldwood Contact Cement.

Sanding the contact area of the rubber is what I find removes the mold release. I use the adhesive remover, acetone and other stuff but then finish off ruffing it up with sand paper,.

if you use contact cement RTL and FOLLOW DIRECTIONS. the stuff goes on both surfaces. Let it dry, then press and hold. You have one shot.

[pkbinplano]

gorilla glue, seriously

[Guest Anonymous]

I recently installed 2 new hood seals 41-61-5-480-195 & 196, & after a week

or so, in 90 plus heat, the glue lets go & they fold over, not sealing the hood.

I'm using black 3M black weatherstrip adhesive. I installed a new door seal few months back with it & had to reglue the lower 2 feet under the door latch after a few weeks & blamed that on myself not using enough glue.

Do you think I got a crappy tube of glue or is there something better I can use for these hood seals ? I cleaned & scraped the seal & the body before gluing, taped them down till the glue dried, 2nd attempt on one hood seal did not work.

I am surprised to hear what you are saying unless you are not cleaning the rubber or the metal counterpart - prior to the adhesive. After wiping down the rubber and corresponding metal area with denatured alcohol I have used the yellow version of the adhesive and (probably shouldn't encourage this) I just closed the hood and haven't looked back for at least a year. I know air is essential for the adhesive to sure but I think the compression of the hood and seal makes for a good bond of the adhesive. The underhood temperatures and the exterior temps parked in the sun after a year are probably the same as yours!

The Gorilla glue is not a bad idea, but it will not last forever if exposed to uv light and maybe heat. I used the stuff for a bumper where the connecting points for the rubber were destroyed. Glue held up nicely for a year but exposed to constant sun or heat from the sun and some areas have gotten brittle and cracked and lifted up.

hth

[ricortes]

If you are as crazy as me, consider marine adhesives. They are frigging kryptonite! Comes in tubes for a chaulking gun and cost about 5x what liquid nails cost but man that stuff holds.

Rick

[Napes]

I'm not sure excessive heat is the culprit. I'm not sure where you live (maybe Oklahoma?) but I don't think you're any hotter that where I live in Southern Arizona with summer temps regularly over 100º. I have no problem with 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive. The problem usually is, as stated above, w/ the mold release not being throughly removed. I recently (couple of weeks ago) had to pull up the whole front section of the door seals on both my ' 75 and on my wife's ' 76. My old tubes of both black and yellow 3M were old and really thick, so I sprung for a new tube of 3M Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive in the "Fast Drying" mode, which I had not previously seen. Spread very nicely with a stiff flux brush, let it set for about 5 min., then stuck it down and it held great. I've had to re-glue the side hood seals a couple of times before, but usually the 2nd time the 3M holds fine.

Bob Napier

[esty]

the problem isn't the adhesive but the prep of the rubber and metal...

[napa02]

the problem isn't the adhesive but the prep of the rubber and metal...

I agree 100%

It's been holding my hood seals for years with no issues...

[Paul7002]

3m yellow stuff. but I don't think I did a very good job of prepping the surfaces so it'll undoubtedly let go again by Tuesday

[smithdog57]

The 3M yellow adhesive is called: 3M Super Weatherstip Adhesive (small font: yellow) Part Number 08001. I think it sets quikly. Once the weather strip is in place use some blue painters tape to hold it in place, don't close the hood, keep pressure off of it untill it dries.

[beammmer]

both the metal and the rubber must be cleaned to remove the oils. The best for the final cleaning is isoprop alcohol. If used correctly and the surface is clean Super Weatherstrip should work well in the spite of the temp.

I believe the gaskets are EPDM rubber. EPDM is notoriously difficult to bond. I used a 3M industrial adhesive, 4799 on both the two under hood gaskets and the door gaskets. It's working fine in the very hot conditions here in New Orleans.

Good luck with the monkey glue.

Don

[jgerock]

I left out of my first post that I used sandpaper to roughen up the surfaces of the seals, then I used some Griot's Garage Rubber Cleaner before applying the adhesive. No matter what I used, there was still a slightly slippery feel to them.

I believe weatherstrip parts are made with UV inhibitors for longer life - hence their slippery, greasy surfaces (just like new tires). The slippery nature seems to help during installation like windshields and the (3) cowl vent drains.

If water penetration from the wheelwell wasn't an issue, the seals could be molded with "pins" that secure them to the cowl. The hood weatherstrip on VW Beetles is secured in the upper corners using this method - no glue required.