New hood seals 3M adhesive won't hold, what to use ?

[beammmer]

No matter what I used, there was still a slightly slippery feel to them.

= difficult to stick to.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EPDM_rubber

http://207.250.200.229:8080/1/doc?id=50978

[TobyB]

The 3M yellow adhesive is called: 3M Super Weatherstip Adhesive

Actually, there are some lesser versions of the 3m product called just 'weatherstrip adhesive'

that don't work so well. They look the same, but I've had much better luck

with 'super'...

And yeah, it really takes an aggressive chemical to remove the silicone-

I know they say alcohol does it, but I've had average results with almost

everything I've tried. Sanding, likewise, only works if the silicone is removed...

Funny, I've always applied adhesive then closed (hood, door, trunk, etc) to hold things

in place and it usually works better that way...

t

[shipm_8]

I had some Loctite Sumo glue around and that's what I used, after cleaning the surfaces. Sixteen months and about 20,000 miles later, the seals are still in place. Unrelated problem to the sumo glue is that it hardens up in the bottle after using a quarter of it.

As others have suggested, success may be a combination of condition of the surface, ensuring the surfaces are clean, and type of glue. The 02 version of having the stars lined up.

William

[robsanab]

interesting... are we certain that all these seals we're talking about are EPDM rubber??

if so, look what I found at 3M.com. Their technical data sheets can be found there... similar to the one DON posted for the 3M Scotch-Weld #4799...

for "3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive" numbers #8001, 8002 and 8008 (different tube sizes and colors) it states... "However, if the weatherstripping is EPDM rubber then product number 8011 (3M Weatherstrip Adhesive Black) should be used."

Sure enough in the #8011 data sheet they say "It is the 3M recommended product for bonding EPDM weatherstripping."

check it out for all their products... there are quite specific instructions for the "Super" compared to some of the other adhesives...

Directions for Use:

"Thoroughly clean surfaces to be bonded. Wiping with 3M™ General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner (P.N. 08984) will aid in removing oil and dirt. Apply a thin uniform coat of adhesive on each surface but do not close the bond. Allow adhesive to dry until tacky but will not transfer to your knuckle when touched (maximum dry time about 4 minutes). Assemble materials with sufficient pressure to ensure contact. Greater initial strength may be obtained by reactivation. To reactivate, coat both surfaces with adhesive and allow to dry tack free. Lightly coat surface with at thin coat of adhesive or lightly wipe with 3M™ General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner (P.N. 08984*). Finish making the bond within 30 seconds. At 70 degrees F, Super Weatherstrip Adhesive will have some bond strength within 1-2 hours and have full cure within 24 hours."

They lost me on the 'reactivation' part. what ARE they saying to do??

Also their data sheets are frustrating because they don't display the performance properties similarly... but from what i can tell the "super" #8001. 8002 and 8008 holds better and at a higher temp than the #8011. That is if it works in your application. I'm having the same issue as the others with my non-stick issues... and mine was installed by professionals that I assume applied it properly since that is what they always do. It our german rubber different from others??

[beammmer]

when you reapply wet adhesive over the dried adhesive the solvent in the wet adhesive softens or reactivates the dry and allows you to make a bond.

The automotive group of 3M has a pretty extensive supply of adhesives. The industrial side of 3M has many more adhesives and much more supporting data.

Edit: The sumo stuff is very similar to monkey glue it is a polyurethane which foams when exposed to humidity. The marketing behind both is simply they charge a bunch for it, it hardens in the bottle when a small amount has been used because the bottle cannot be 100% resealed, then you go buy more expensive glue.

Don

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Bonding-Solutions/?WT.mc_id=www.3m.com/adhesives

[mtriple]

I used Gorilla glue a year ago and its just as good as day one today.

hamada

[Guest Anonymous]

I used Gorilla glue a year ago and its just as good as day one today.hamada

¿You are not suggesting that if the right person used the ape-stick-stuff you would have had a leak-free engine? LOL grande.

Just between you and me, I don't think I'd use the stuff it were constantly subjected to hot oil. (If your engine leaked enough, maybe the hot oil would reach the seals near the top of the hood!!)

Hope all is Bristol-well. Have not noticed your posts in a while!

[mtriple]

I used Gorilla glue a year ago and its just as good as day one today.hamada

¿You are not suggesting that if the right person used the ape-stick-stuff you would have had a leak-free engine? LOL grande.

Just between you and me, I don't think I'd use the stuff it were constantly subjected to hot oil. (If your engine leaked enough, maybe the hot oil would reach the seals near the top of the hood!!)

Hope all is Bristol-well. Have not noticed your posts in a while!

Fernando,

nice to hear from you. My friend no more leaks! It took a while, but I finally do not see any oil drops whatsoever thank God. I think the glue looks pretty good and I do test the seal and its not going anywhere. Oil is not reaching even after I drove to work one day forgetting to put back my oil lid on...

Here is what I used:

I've been checking the forum whenever I get a chance..3 kids will suck the living energy and time out of you man!! Car is doing great and its now at Groma Fabrications in Duarte getting the proper DCOE linkage installation once and for all....

hamada