engine and drivetrain Today was a bad day for my 1602, and prob pockets.

[jmr_1602]

Hello all, newbie here and to older cars in general...Im hoping someone might be able to help me out here.

While traveling down 64Eeast to work I noticed a large plume of white smoke coming out the back of my 02. I didn't notice any difference in how it drove, and noticed no unfamiliar noises. In general the car runs great every time I use it. Anyhow, I pull over immediately pop the hood, and notice smoke coming off the headers from an oil leak, I then check the asphalt and notice maybe 8oz of oil on the street.

I have it towed home, and start it up once more just to see if I missed any unfamiliar sounds, starts right up, engine idle seems to sound normal. Total run time about 30-40 sec. After -- I take a look on the drive way, and there is a good amount of oil on the ground. (picture included below.)

Im hoping I just need to replace my gaskets. Im unable to fully check out the engine (at work now as I write, plus Im not really sure what Im looking at.) So my questions are (don't joke me!)

1. Is my engine a 2.0? The PO didn't really know much about cars either, and I bought it from him assuming I just bough a good running 1602. The block is stamped E21, with a date of 76. Im sure it is, I just 2nd guess myself on things I'm not familiar with.

2. Is this the head gasket set I should be buying? Since I should probably replace them all anyways.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-HEAD-GASKET-SET-2002_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem29feedf5f3QQitemZ180370666995QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQQsalenotsupported#ht_1542wt_866

3. If the block did crack would it still run like it does? (I'm hoping this is not the case.)

4. Recommendations for a shop to take my car in the Norfolk/Hampton Roads area?

My engine bay after incident

Stamp

Pictures taken quickly at lunch of general area I think leak is coming from.

Found this in the oil leak on the asphalt

Oil soaked towels...

TIA Jason

[TobyB]

This won't be too bad. The block's 99% sure to be ok, and the head 90%-

the pressurized oil's on the other side of the motor.

Here are a few places to start.

1- make sure your valve cover gasket's ok. And that the valve cover's tight.

2- check all the studs in the exhaust manifold. If one of the top ones

falls out or is really loose, you'll get a pile of oil. This can be hard to see,

as the oil runs around to the bottom of the manifold, just like in your pics!

3- check the distributor housing bolted to the back of the head.

It's hard to see, but one of the bolts (top, driver's side) is pressurized,

and if that came even a bit loose, blooey, lots of oil. Likewise, if it's

come loose or cracked or chunked (around the dizzy, usually) a LOT

of oil can come out pretty quickly.

4- the dizzy o- ring can leak- but not usually that much.

Snoop around the top of the engine carefully with a light and a mirror, and

I bet you'll find the leaking gun. And like I said, this looks pretty straightforward...

Good luck!

t

edit- oh, hey one last place to look- the back head bolt on the driver's side,

the one outside the valve cover, is where the oil for the head comes up, under pressure.

Check it's top, and also where the head gasket seals it. Probably not it, but

worth a look.

t

[Inka114]

Is one of the exhaust manifold studs on the top of the manifold loose or missing? Couldn't see from the pics. The top ones go straight into the top of the head where the valve gear is, and if one is missing you'll get quite the oil leak and smoke all over the place.

Good luck!

[DavidLMM]

Overwhelmingly, the symptoms you have are generally caused by a loose or missing exhaust manifold stud. Check the cool engine with your fingertips - are all studs present and tight? Several of the studs penetrate oil galleys in the head, so when the loosen or fall out, oil comes out at a scary rate.

It's unlikely the head gasket - that would manifest itself as sweet-smelling steam from the exhaust, "chocolate milkshake" in the oil cap, etc.

The head is a later casting for a 2-liter engine. May or may not be on your original block - you'll have to compare block numbers to your VIN to see if you still have the original motor - but either way, it's had work done on it.

If you do find missing or loose exhaust studs, source copper BMW parts, either from a BMW dealer or parts sellers on this list, and make sure to really, really clean up the threads and use LocTite.

David in Nashville

[c.d.iesel]

.....= K.I.S.S. =

it's just yer exhaust manifold studs

drop the manifold, remove the old studs,

clean and dry the holes , screw in NEW correct studs,

new 320i exhaust manifold gasket with included heat shield,

and new self-locking COPPER exhaust nuts with flat washers.

Use Loctite thread locker on the new studs screwed into the head

all that oil you see is running out of the old crummy

Ex. studs

[jmr_1602]

K.I.S.S. = Keep it simple stupid? lol My boss tells me that all the time.

Thanks for all the replies, a lot quicker than I thought. I now feel more relaxed at work, not thinking of the worst.

Thank god for FAQ and it's members.

[BillWilliams]

Ok, all but one of your questions answered.

Are you a BMWCCA member? There are a few guys down that way that may refer you to a mechanic.

A fellow with an orange 2002 and Steve Waddell.

[Mikesmalaga72]

I had that happen to me in my 73 Bavaria and it was the oil pressure sending unit that let go. It is screwed into the distributor housing.

[nbcbird]

I looks to me like the top stud in cylinder 4 (in the exhaust manifold) has no corresponding nut. The beer can overflow container may have to go--or at least upgrade to a German brand.--jp

[jmr_1602]

yea felt around the engine when i got home, and a stud is def missing on the 4th manifold. Thanks for the help all.

PS: P.O. put the Bud can there, the original reservoir is sitting in the trunk. Thought it was funny, so I've kept it for now, was going to switch it to a green can for sh*ts and giggles.

[jgerock]

Do it right and install all new studs and copper nuts. Remove the valve cover and get the oil pooled from the outer head recesses. Remove the studs using the double-nut method and clean the head the best you can before installing new hardware. The folding heat shield manifold gasket is a good choice (per C.D.'s picture).

Use Red Loctite on the threads of the studs into the head so they don't back out and antiseize paste on the outer (exposed) threads.

[TobyB]

well, there's your problem! Glad it's not hard.

Yeah, replacing the 4 top ones and resealing them is a good idea...

but you could be lazy and just clean up #4, seal it in with something gooey,

and be done with it...

t