engine and drivetrain No start after weber install and smog removal

[repoman]

Car was running prior to install of weber and removal of ALL smog equipment on my 1974 2002A.

I have all the vacuum lines plugged including the vacuum advance on the distributer.

I have removed the fuel return valve. The fuel line now just goes straight from the fuel pump into the carb.

Does have fuel in the tank, however, I cannot see any fuel in the clear fuel filter in front of the fuel pump.

Engine cranks as it should.

Is there a way to prime the carb or fuel lines? I've been cranking the engine for about 10 minutes and still no fuel in the lines.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Must sleep now and dream about BMW's....ZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzz

[autoaloha]

mine had an issue like this recently after fuel pump removal and work.

i still need to ditch the old solex, but it came to life after replacing (cleaning may work) the fuel pick up strainer and using starting fluid. If the fuel pump is full of air it takes a long time to suck it back into the line.

i hope this helps, it worked for me. lmk how it goes.

[thehackmechanic]

Before you go crazy, open the throat and give it a blast of starting fluid and verify that it cranks over (that it has spark). Could've knocked something off.

[FunkyLaneO]

Make sure you have spark. When you removed the smog loom you replaced the positive coil wire, make sure it works, test to see that you have power to the coil when the key is turned to the on position.

[repoman]

Thanks for the suggestions!

I'll try the Quick Start fluid as well as check for spark when I get home tonight.

When I removed the emission wiring loom, there were two wires connected to the "+" of the coil (one went to the #12 fuse and the other, if memory serves, went to #11). Now these are replaced by the single wire that runs from the "+" coil to the electric choke, then continues to the #12 fuse.

[02Les]

Now these are replaced by the single wire that runs from the "+" coil to the electric choke, then continues to the #12 fuse.

A week or so ago, I downloaded some info on installing a 32/36 Weber. It mentions Connect electric choke & idle cutoff valve to a 12v ignition switch activated power source. NOTE: do not connect to + side of the ignition coil

No clue why not but that's what it said.

I have attached (hopefully) the doc - see page 2 item 8.

[FunkyLaneO]

Now these are replaced by the single wire that runs from the "+" coil to the electric choke, then continues to the #12 fuse.

A week or so ago, I downloaded some info on installing a 32/36 Weber. It mentions Connect electric choke & idle cutoff valve to a 12v ignition switch activated power source. NOTE: do not connect to + side of the ignition coil

No clue why not but that's what it said.

I have attached (hopefully) the doc - see page 2 item 8.

It probably says that because the coil is usually not a fused connection and you really want a fused connection to the carb to prevent fires. Also if you have an external resistor that connection bypasses the resistor during cranking which may have some effect.

[JLENHAM]

Mine already had the Weber (water choke) when I bought it. I went ahead and removed all the left over smog wiring and it started fine afterward. However, I also wanted to remove the white ceramic block resistor (blue coil) at the coil. After I removed that it would not start. I decided I could live with the resistor. You did not mention it, but I wondered if that was part of your clean up?

Regardless, I am betting on lack of spark...

Happy hunting!

[repoman]

Now these are replaced by the single wire that runs from the "+" coil to the electric choke, then continues to the #12 fuse.

A week or so ago, I downloaded some info on installing a 32/36 Weber. It mentions Connect electric choke & idle cutoff valve to a 12v ignition switch activated power source. NOTE: do not connect to + side of the ignition coil

No clue why not but that's what it said.

I have attached (hopefully) the doc - see page 2 item 8.

It probably says that because the coil is usually not a fused connection and you really want a fused connection to the carb to prevent fires. Also if you have an external resistor that connection bypasses the resistor during cranking which may have some effect.

I did not hook up the idle cutoff valve, maybe I will do that tonight as well to the other wire I removed from the fuse box that was part of the emission wire loom.

It is interesting on that write up that it also mentioned to remove the gas cap. Perhaps if I had done this, it would have prevented my fuel lines, fuel pump and filter from emptying....

[FunkyLaneO]

If there is an Idle cutoff on your carb you definitely need to hook it up, otherwise it is doing what it is supposed to do, kill your engine!

Just make a little leapfrog wire from your choke over to the solenoid, same exact requirements as the choke.

[repoman]

Yes, there is the cut off valve....

I'll hook that up after I confirm spark.

I have a good feeling it'll be back on the road tonight...

Thanks to all for the help!

I'll keep this thread updated with my progress.

Update 10/15/09:

Used Quick Start and the car fired up = spark

Used a manual syphon pump to draw gas thru the gas lines, wired up the idle cutoff valve and plugged in the vacuum line from the carb to the distrubutor.

Car fired right up after a few cranks.

Attempted to make a few adjustments (idle mixture, timing, idle), however, the car still runs like crap. Rechecked for vacuum leaks, could'nt find any. I can get it to idle pretty good, however, as soon as I drop it into gear, the car stalls. It runs worse now with the Weber, then it did with the Solex....

Called it a night at 3 a.m.

Back to the drawing board as they say....

[FunkyLaneO]

It may run better if you disconnect the distributor vacuum and cap it off, the 74 had a vacuum retard (not advance) and at least on mine it ran much better when it was disconnected.

Now it sounds like you need to tune your carb, there are good instructions on how to do that on Pierce Manifolds website http://www.piercemanifolds.com/Carburetor_Set_Up_and_Lean_Best_Idle_Adjustment.htm

Also how do you have it jetted?

[repoman]

It may run better if you disconnect the distributor vacuum and cap it off, the 74 had a vacuum retard (not advance) and at least on mine it ran much better when it was disconnected.

Now it sounds like you need to tune your carb, there are good instructions on how to do that on Pierce Manifolds website http://www.piercemanifolds.com/Carburetor_Set_Up_and_Lean_Best_Idle_Adjustment.htm

Also how do you have it jetted?

Good points, thanks! I did not mention as yet, however, the car has the 008 Distributor, not sure if that makes a difference.

From what I have searched on this board, I am going to attack the distributor as well, since the car basically ran the same with both carbs. I am getting very erratic "balling" when attempting to set the timing.

I'm not sure about the jetting, but plan on looking at that too. I did notice that the carb is leaking some gas out of the Accel pump diaphragm, so I will pull the jets when I replace all the gaskets.

Thanks for all the help! This board is priceless!

[repoman]

Here's an update....

Checked the points and the part that glides along the distributor shaft was shot! That explains the erractic idle.

Got new points, set the timing, adjusted carb and back on the road! Still need to fine tune the carb a bit.

Thanks to all their assistance with the smog equipment removal and weber carb set up! I couldn't have done it without your help!

I have one more new concern...what do you do with the run off gas line that was part of the gas run off valve? I took the hose off, thinking it would be fine. I filled the car with gas, went for a spin, smelled gas, stopped and it was pouring out the front from the metal tube. Do I need to just stick a hose on it and kink it??

Thanks